The water level in the return pump section is where it drops due to evaporation. Adding 4-8 cups of water will likely cure that, and changing the water depth above the pump by 2-3 inches can have a surprising effect on the overall flow. The return section is also where you will add any sensor or float valve for an auto topoff for exactly this reason.
-water level in the tank can never drop lower than the overflow weir - unless your return nozzles are pushed too low below the waterline, and then create a back-siphon when the pump stops. Raise them to just below the waterline to stop this.
-water in the preliminary sump chambers cannot drop due to the baffles
If you're concerned about power outages, pull the plug on the return and skimmer. That will show you your highest sump water level in case of a power outage. You're safe to fill the sump to an inch or two below the rim if you need to when all the water movement has stopped, though that would probably be overkill.
Fine tuning takes time and patience. Make tiny adjustments to the gate valve (1/8 turn and smaller), and wait at least 15 minutes to see the result in the water height in the overflow box. If you want the water height a tiny bit higher, close the gate valve just the smallest fraction of a turn and come back in 15 minutes. A little lower, then open it just a tiny bit.
If you need to, you can push the primary fittings a bit lower in the water, or trim 1/4" off the pipe. You should end with just a tiny, silent trickle down the secondary.