Bean drain and in tank flow issues

[rayn]

I would imagine that the pump can out perform being the panworld 250 ps. I do throttle it back some aleady.

I agree something is amiss though if it won't stay consistent. I had this tank setup before with different plumbing and different return pumps and it worked flawlessly. I just can't seem to get that balance right this time.

 

[Thunderfan]

Can you shoot a pic of your drains in the sump?

 

[Thunderfan]

What size are your drains?

 

[rayn]

The pipes coming straight down are the drain pipes. The pipe horizontal is the skimmer discharge.

Holes drilled in the tank are 1" they go into 1.5" drain lines.

 

[Thunderfan]

I can't make it out. Your full syphon and open channel should be close to each other and should be no deeper than 3/4" below sump water level. Mine are about 1/2". If they are to deep it is to much pressure. Did moving the hose for the open channel help it?

 

[rayn]

Changing that hose didn't really make a difference. I will have to fix the drain pipes I suppose. I put them that low to keep any bubbles down low and have to rise up before hitting the return. I stupidly use gate valves on them as well and am really wishing I used ball valves, now is a good time to order them and make it right.

I will get that done and fun revisit this page and let you know. Thanks for all the help so far! You gave me a few good suggestions, now I just need to implement them and watch it work.

 

[Thunderfan]

You want a gate valve on the full syphon so you have finer adjustments. As long as it is set up correctly it works fantastic. Usually if there is a problem or some of the "tricks" have to be used it is because of the installation. I love it and won't do another type unless it's on a smaller tank.

 

[rayn]

I love them too. When they work they are silent! Startup after a water change is nothing, never had a issue there. Since this style I have done a durso just cause it was "easier". Shame on me!

My other newish tank is reef ready, there any way to mod it to run the bean style? There are two drains in it as well

 

[saltyhog]

No, the hose for the open channel has to suck air. That's how you get lots of quiet flow from the full syphon. The end of that hose should be higher than the emergency drain. It is actually the final emergency before a flood. It will create a full syphon on the open channel and flush the overflow box.

Actually that should be the first emergency, then the dry emergency gets filled.

If you have a Bean set up right bubbles should be almost non existant. There will be none in the full siphon (all water, no air). Flow should be low enough in the open standpipe that it is not producing any significant bubbles. With 1 1/2" drains you should not have any problem with most any reasonable flow. I have 1" drain and a 1325 gph return pump and have to shut the gate valve on my full siphon half way closed to have any water through the open stand pipe.

You don't have the siphon and open standpipe tied together do you? (just see one drain in the sump). As Thunderfan said only 3/4-1" below the surface of the water. Where you have it will also make it more difficult to get the full siphon started on a restart after a power loss.

 

[rayn]

No they aren't tied together. There are two drains in the sump and the emergency above the water line. As I am learning here, there are a few things I need to change. Once I get those done, it will probably dial right in. I imagine right now my biggest issue is how far down I have the drain pipes set at. Also have ball valves is making it difficult to adjust, so gate valves need to be added in.

 

[rayn]

Also I usually include a valve on the secondary drain, is it really needed?

 

[Thunderfan]

Actually that should be the first emergency, then the dry emergency gets filled.

Don't want to argue about it but, that is incorrect. If you go by the correct set up you put the open channel hose above the level of the emergency drain. The emergency drain kicks in on a high water situation. If for some reason it cannot handle the flow or is clogged then the hose gets submerged and the open channel "flushes" the overflow like a toilet. People get this wrong all the time, I think because the dry pipe was called the emergency, people automatically think that is the last line of defense when it is actually the first.

 

[rayn]

I always understood it to be

1 the dry or secondary overflow is first defense
2 the "emergency" pipe or the one with the 90 turned up is the secondary defense

I never realized or figured out the air tube was a final line that would flush the overflow in case.

 

[currentking]

I turned down my return because the hole at the waterline was getting submerged due to too much returned to the tank which would make noise and make the water level fluctuate



Here is the setupi have if it helps.

 

[saltyhog]

Also I usually include a valve on the secondary drain, is it really needed?

Not really.

Thanks for the correction Thunderfan.

 

[Thunderfan]

I turned down my return because the hole at the waterline was getting submerged due to too much returned to the tank which would make noise and make the water level fluctuate



Here is the setupi have if it helps.

In the last pic it looks like your pipes are to deep in the sump they should be no more than 1"below water line.

 

[currentking]

In the last pic it looks like your pipes are to deep in the sump they should be no more than 1"below water line.

I'll check in the morning. What will it do differently if not At the 1 inch? I'm still learning this also.

 

[Thunderfan]

Needs to be less than an inch. If it is more there is too much pressure to be able to push the air out of the syphon effectively.

 

[rayn]

Needs to be less than an inch. If it is more there is too much pressure to be able to push the air out of the syphon effectively.

And if it can't or doesn't push all the air out, I imagine that is where you have a almost constant state of bubbles?

 

[Thunderfan]

And if it can't or doesn't push all the air out, I imagine that is where you have a almost constant state of bubbles?

Yes, most of the time it just never starts on its own or has a very hard time starting. Which would also make a bunch of bubbles because it can't purge the air out of the full syphon before the open channel takes over. Everything needs to be glued so it is air tight also or you will get bubbles.