Before I move on...

[Hugo_Fish]

PH is low in my tank currently ... my Milwaukee is stating 7.7(Recently Calibrated) ... but ReefPi is stating 7.2(just calibrated..).. I am unsure what's going on. Going to bed and will see what it is when I wake up..


Does anyone know what's going on or something I can do?

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Here is a screen shot of my settings.. maybe its something im not setting correct... im unsure what Chart Unit is ?

 

[Sral]

Here is a screen shot of my settings.. maybe its something im not setting correct... im unsure what Chart Unit is ?

chart unit just adds a unit label next to the left axis, if I recall correctly.

The difference in pH might be due to fluctuations during the calibration process or have an electrical nature. The first can be circumvented by waiting for stable values during calibration, the second is more difficult.

Are you using the isolation board for your EZO ? You can show us a picture of the circuit.
Another reason might be excessive voltage differences between circuit and tank. You can try measuring the DC and AC voltage between your tank and the Ground of your ReefPi system with a multimeter. If that is high, either your tank and/or your circuit are on a potential away from earth.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Ill get back to you later tonight

 

[Hugo_Fish]

You can try measuring the DC and AC voltage between your tank and the Ground of your ReefPi system with a multimeter. If that is high, either your tank and/or your circuit are on a potential away from earth.

Wait do you mean actually putting one of the multimeter probes in the tank?

 

[Sral]

Wait do you mean actually putting one of the multimeter probes in the tank?

Yes. At least the tip

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Oof things are getting hot ..

 

[Sral]

Oof things are getting hot ..

Be sure to have it in voltage setting only, as that makes the meter have ultra high resistance.
Don’t under any circumstances use the Current setting, as that is the opposite … Ultra low resistance, which might lead to something breaking.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Are you using the isolation board for your EZO

Don't have pictures yet but yes m using a isolation board

 

[BeanAnimal]

Hi - skipped thread, but wanted to comment on first question/photos.

I am not in agreement with the others that this is good soldering. It may be somewhat passable, but it is not "good". This is not an attack, even the best of us soldered like that and had to learn.

I see too much heat for too long in some places. A lot of "cold" joints and solder that did not flow well.

I am not going to give a tutorial or detailed explanations (those are available all over the place).

1 - cheap solder is cheap solder and does not flow well and is half the battle. Do yourself a favor and buy a roll of
63/37 or 62/38/2 (Sn62Pb36Ag2). STAY AWAY FROM LEAD FREE it will cause you grief as a novice.

1a - 60/40 solder is hard to work with, as it stays "melted" over a wide range, allowing stuff to move after you remove the iron.

2 - you want two rolls. .3mm or .4mm for smt and tiny pads and maybe .7mm (wires, through hole, etc.)

3 - mild flux core - example Kester type 285 (ROL0)

4 - get a can of rosin flux too... and a flux pen with the same mild (285) or similar flux in it.

5 - clean clean clean clean clean parts and pads

6 - get a GOOD surplus WELLER temp controlled soldering station, not some china $28 iron or fake station.

7 - get an extra hand piece or two and keep a selection of tips. Small point and small wedge.

8 - GET a GOOD wire mesh tip cleaner and tip cleaning paste. Attach the past tin to the top of the station. USE IT.

9 - use the tip cleaner and sponge like they are the most important things in the world.

10 - when it won't flow right away or you can't get the heat where it needs to be, etc. STOP STOP STOP. Clean, reset. Re-apply flux Just mashing the tip in there until things turn hot is going to overheat everything and will scorch the flux.

So - let me back up. You did great for learning... keep practicing and soldering will become fun and easy.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

chart unit just adds a unit label next to the left axis, if I recall correctly.

The difference in pH might be due to fluctuations during the calibration process or have an electrical nature. The first can be circumvented by waiting for stable values during calibration, the second is more difficult.

Are you using the isolation board for your EZO ? You can show us a picture of the circuit.
Another reason might be excessive voltage differences between circuit and tank. You can try measuring the DC and AC voltage between your tank and the Ground of your ReefPi system with a multimeter. If that is high, either your tank and/or your circuit are on a potential away from earth.

@Sral, So I measured the Voltage. DC I'm not getting any reading unless I turn it into 200 Millivolt mode.. but then I don't trust what it's reading as any movement changing the reading.. but when I change it to AC, I'm getting a solid 29.4. unsure if that 29.4 is too much..

 

[Hugo_Fish]

As for wiring, it's pretty messy.. but I have the pH and the PCA on the I2C bus using jumper wires.. not I do have them tied together. Later on tonight after I finish another project Ill untie them and see what happens..


My current situation. .. as you can see it's going to be a while...

 

[Sral]

@Sral, So I measured the Voltage. DC I'm not getting any reading unless I turn it into 200 Millivolt mode.. but then I don't trust what it's reading as any movement changing the reading.. but when I change it to AC, I'm getting a solid 29.4. unsure if that 29.4 is too much..

Ok, the DC voltage is what was most important, that could give you an offset on the pH reading.

AC reading of 29.4 sounds fine to me. AC would add noise on the pH signal, but since you don't see that I would not worry about it.

 

[Sral]

As for wiring, it's pretty messy.. but I have the pH and the PCA on the I2C bus using jumper wires.. not I do have them tied together. Later on tonight after I finish another project Ill untie them and see what happens..


My current situation. .. as you can see it's going to be a while...

Yeah, somebody seems to think that he is more important than that stupid box

As for the I2C wires to the pH and the PCA: the communication is digital, I would not expect the tying to create problems in pH value. If it created problems you should see that by the pH value dropping out intermittently because the communication fails entirely.

 

[Hugo_Fish]

Okay weird,.. I deleted the prob and created it again...it's currently sitting at 7.85 witch the milwaulee is sitting at 7.9.... guess it it fixed itself? .. meh I'll take the win I Guess .. anyways I'm currently having problems with the tele server -.-... so that's my current project...