Beginner coral for 30 gallon tank

[blackwing013]

Hello all, I have recently put my first fish in my newly established 30-gallon tank about 2 weeks ago, and I have now caught the itch for coral. I don't think my lighting is good enough for any coral (Fluval Aquasky, I know, bad, but it came with the tank when I bought it). I am in the market for a new light. Once I get said light, I would like to start out with some easy-to-keep, beginner corals that won't get too big for my tank. Any feedback would be appreciated! Feel free to share your tanks for inspiration (P.S. First ever saltwater tank, just learning along the way) (P.S.P.S I only have a canister filter on it, don't know if that changes anything, just thought I would throw it in there)

 

[fishski13]

So with the canister filter on it, it definitely makes it harder to maintain lower nutrient levels and doesnt give much room for extra equipment. However, it is very doable especially for soft corals which not only are easy to take care of but can thrive in dirty nutrient dense water. Which for someone like you who is new, can be very easy and rewarding.

What is your budget for the light?

 

[DarkReefer]

Soft corals are a good place to start. They're usually pretty hardy and easy to keep and wont go crazy taking up nutrients in the water which means you want have to fluff around as much trying to dose/balance things.

People say Hammers are good starter LPS but I think they're a bit finicky/tricky to keep and whilst they look great I've not had much long term success, same goes for Torches. They're usually one of the first corals to crack the *****. lol

Anything that requires direct feeding can also be a little painful. Unless you're the type of person to be really committed to your feeding routines and enjoy spending a lot of time with your tank etc (beyond the first few months when it's all new and exciting), having to direct feed can be a bit of a pain when you want to just let things look after themselves or are a little time poor/side tracked.

 

[KK's Reef]

If you want bright and easy, go for zoas and LPS. With a canister filter, your nutrients may be on the "dirty" side, so acros are out of the question. I would say softies in general will do well in dirtier tanks, but I'm not a fan of them.

Invest in a good light, or even a Chinese black box from Amazon. Your corals will thank you.

 

[Lunatic Fringe]

Starting with Ricordia's, Zoa's and Palys should be pretty doable with a decent light and are fairly easy. There are other soft corals but these I think are the most colorful and come in various color morphs to suit any ones taste. From there if your successful you could go with some LPS corals.

 

[damsels are not mean]

beginner corals that won't get too big for my tank.

Every coral will eventually get too big for any tank if you're doing it right!

Any coral is fine besides SPS just because they usually need a lot of flow and light and since they grow fast the minerals can get depleted quickly. Soft corals, LPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, anemones, etc.

 

[MoreReef]

"Budget tanks"

 

[Udest]

yeah like others said softies are definitely more forgiving of water conditions and even semi subpar lighting.

 

[homer1475]

If you want bright and easy, go for zoas and LPS. With a canister filter, your nutrients may be on the "dirty" side, so acros are out of the question. I would say softies in general will do well in dirtier tanks, but I'm not a fan of them.

Invest in a good light, or even a Chinese black box from Amazon. Your corals will thank you.

So "dirty" water.. care to elaborate?

My nutrients and most SPS keepers are in the 10 to 20ppm nitrates, and 0.1 to 0.2 phosphates. Suppose thats whats considered "dirty" these days. My tank is SPS dominate with about 4 LPS and 50 or so SPS colonies, not frags. Everything is at optimal color, and growing like crazy(I go through a gallon of 2 part every other week in my 80G cube)

What softies need to thrive, all corals need to thrive. Nutrients or "dirty" water is in fact not "dirty" at all, but just about right. This idea of dirty water came about many years ago when people were trying to emulate the ocean values, and most failed. Yes ULNS can work, but it's such a razors edge, a nudge in either direction causes catastrophic death. Kind fo the reasons many years ago SPS wrre considered so hard to keep. Many years later, many research papers later, we now know better.

Now if everyone stopped watching youtube reefers who are in and out the hobby quicker then some people change their underwear, they would know those low levels they suggest are nearly impossible to maintain, and are a fools errand as ALL corals love nutrients, not just softies. There is no such thing as "dirty" water, unless it truly is dirty(can't see through it).

Stop paying attention to the newbies in the hobby, and find someone whos been doing it for several years(longer then 5) and try to emulate their procedures, and practices.

The general consensus is the proof is in the pudding. While I agree with that, I do not need to post pictures to prop myself up. Just go look through my build thread for pictures of my tank. Yes it hasn't been updated in months(it's not really a build thread anymore as the tank is going on 10 years old), but I do update it from time to time.

 

[Breadbox]

Frogspawn! In my personal experience they are far hardier and more resilient than most soft corals, their skeleton protect them from crabs, the only thing easier than them are discosoma mushrooms. I had massive alkalinity swings and was constantly moving them around because of itchy fingers.
They didn't even act upset once in the whole time I have them and even grew a little when everything else(except for 2 of my torches) is receding/not growing at all.

 

[52728299]

Yea I like the idea of ricordias and zoas to start. Then move on to some lps. For lps I like euphyllia and imo are pretty easy. Imo too I'd avoid goniopora, very stubborn coral

 

[KK's Reef]

So "dirty" water.. care to elaborate?

My nutrients and most SPS keepers are in the 10 to 20ppm nitrates, and 0.1 to 0.2 phosphates. Suppose thats whats considered "dirty" these days. My tank is SPS dominate with about 4 LPS and 50 or so SPS colonies, not frags. Everything is at optimal color, and growing like crazy(I go through a gallon of 2 part every other week in my 80G cube)

What softies need to thrive, all corals need to thrive. Nutrients or "dirty" water is in fact not "dirty" at all, but just about right. This idea of dirty water came about many years ago when people were trying to emulate the ocean values, and most failed. Yes ULNS can work, but it's such a razors edge, a nudge in either direction causes catastrophic death. Kind fo the reasons many years ago SPS wrre considered so hard to keep. Many years later, many research papers later, we now know better.

Now if everyone stopped watching youtube reefers who are in and out the hobby quicker then some people change their underwear, they would know those low levels they suggest are nearly impossible to maintain, and are a fools errand as ALL corals love nutrients, not just softies. There is no such thing as "dirty" water, unless it truly is dirty(can't see through it).

Stop paying attention to the newbies in the hobby, and find someone whos been doing it for several years(longer then 5) and try to emulate their procedures, and practices.

The general consensus is the proof is in the pudding. While I agree with that, I do not need to post pictures to prop myself up. Just go look through my build thread for pictures of my tank. Yes it hasn't been updated in months(it's not really a build thread anymore as the tank is going on 10 years old), but I do update it from time to time.

I agree with you. "Dirty" doesn't mean dirty. It just gets thrown around a lot on this board and it generally means that someone's tank nutrients are out of whack. OP mentioned he only has a canister filter. He didn't elaborate on bio-load or feeding habits, but I'd bet that his nutrients would get to the high end sooner than later. All I meant is that for someone new, that may not practice good husbandry or grasp the chemistry, he might be better off with softies or LPS, rather than jump into SPS or acros.

By the way, I don't watch Youtube for advice, I look to you fine folks. (that might sound sarcastic, but I'm not trying to be)

 

[homer1475]

I agree with you. "Dirty" doesn't mean dirty. It just gets thrown around a lot on this board and it generally means that someone's tank nutrients are out of whack. OP mentioned he only has a canister filter. He didn't elaborate on bio-load or feeding habits, but I'd bet that his nutrients would get to the high end sooner than later. All I meant is that for someone new, that may not practice good husbandry or grasp the chemistry, he might be better off with softies or LPS, rather than jump into SPS or acros.

By the way, I don't watch Youtube for advice, I look to you fine folks. (that might sound sarcastic, but I'm not trying to be)

And I hope you didn't take my post as an attack on you. It was meant to teach and not single you out. I saw the "dirty water" comment and it set me off on a tangent that needed to be explained.

 

[blackwing013]

So with the canister filter on it, it definitely makes it harder to maintain lower nutrient levels and doesnt give much room for extra equipment. However, it is very doable especially for soft corals which not only are easy to take care of but can thrive in dirty nutrient dense water. Which for someone like you who is new, can be very easy and rewarding.

What is your budget for the light?

I was thinking under 200

 

[blackwing013]

Soft corals are a good place to start. They're usually pretty hardy and easy to keep and wont go crazy taking up nutrients in the water which means you want have to fluff around as much trying to dose/balance things.

People say Hammers are good starter LPS but I think they're a bit finicky/tricky to keep and whilst they look great I've not had much long term success, same goes for Torches. They're usually one of the first corals to crack the *****. lol

Anything that requires direct feeding can also be a little painful. Unless you're the type of person to be really committed to your feeding routines and enjoy spending a lot of time with your tank etc (beyond the first few months when it's all new and exciting), having to direct feed can be a bit of a pain when you want to just let things look after themselves or are a little time poor/side tracked.

Thanks!

 

[KK's Reef]

And I hope you didn't take my post as an attack on you. It was meant to teach and not single you out. I saw the "dirty water" comment and it set me off on a tangent that needed to be explained.

No offense taken. No harm, no foul. I (we) appreciate all of the feedback and comments. That's what makes this board great. And I do appreciate your explanation.

 

[davidcalgary29]

Bomb-proof beginner corals:

Mushrooms
Nepthea
Capnella (see below. Far, far below)
Grube's gorgonian
Xenia (does not seem to like low nutrients)

Neat Things that Can Do Well in immature tanks:

Rock flower anemones
tuxedo urchins
Most nice macroalgae

Worth the risk:

Bubble coral
stylocoeniella
Porites

Do You Really Want to Hurt Me?

Kenya Trees
GSP

 

[52728299]

Bomb-proof beginner corals:

Mushrooms
Nepthea
Capnella (see below. Far, far below)
Grube's gorgonian
Xenia (does not seem to like low nutrients)

Neat Things that Can Do Well in immature tanks:

Rock flower anemones
tuxedo urchins
Most nice macroalgae

Worth the risk:

Bubble coral
stylocoeniella
Porites

Do You Really Want to Hurt Me?

Kenya Trees
GSP

Rock flower anemone is a nice suggestion. Such nice colors too

 

[sfin52]

Sps
Pocillopora
Trumpet/candy canes

lps
Duncans

Softies.
Leathers
Gorgonia
Zoas
Shrooms

Anemones
Rfa
Mini maxi nema

 

[Jeeperz]

My first coral was that trumpet but had 3 heads, week later was the rbta on right rear that has grown and split 5x, it's latest split is in the middle next to trumpet. That hammer on the bottom was one of the next and I believe was 1 or 2 heads from a black Friday grab bag. Both trumpet and hammer have had many heads/branches broken off over the years. The rbta was put in around 1-1.5 months from new tank