Beginners Guide to Acclimation and Quarantine

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

Humblefish said:
Yes; dose @ 60mg/gal.

Okay, I confess, math is not my thing. 20 gal hex minus maybe 1 0r 2 gal sand and decoration. Probably can stick to just 20 gal?
My package (from ebay with good feedback) says 40 mg is equal to 1/8 tea
I need 1200 mg (20*60)
That would be 30 1/8 tsp (1200/40) or
15 1/4 tsp or
7.5 1/2 tsp or
3.25 tsp

Do I have this correct? Edit: Ugh, I have just a hair under 3 tsp. Will this work?

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

@Humblefish This is the directions from the ebay website. I want to be sure you are talking about 60 mg per gallon, not 10 gal.

Typical dosage for quarantine is 40mg/Gallon (app. 1/8th tsp./10gallon) for ten days. This is a one dose treatment.

If water changes need to be performed to reduce ammonia, then chloroquine phosphate needs to be redosed for amount of water changed.

10g treats 250 gallons...25g treats 625 gallons...50g treats 1250 gallons....100g treats 2500 gallons.

For treatment of existing Cryptocaryon irritans(ich), Amyloodinium ocellatum (marine velvet) and brooklynella (brook) up to 80mg/gallon (app.1/4th tsp./10gal) can be used.

Brew12 · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
Okay, I confess, math is not my thing. 20 gal hex minus maybe 1 0r 2 gal sand and decoration. Probably can stick to just 20 gal?
My package (from ebay with good feedback) says 40 mg is equal to 1/8 tea
I need 1200 mg (20*60)
That would be 30 1/8 tsp (1200/40) or
15 1/4 tsp or
7.5 1/2 tsp or
3.25 tsp

Do I have this correct? Edit: Ugh, I have just a hair under 3 tsp. Will this work?

Just to clarify the math on this, you would need 3.75 tsp or 3 and 3/4 tsp.

7.5 / 2= 3.75.

3.25 x 2 = 6.5 not 7.5

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

Brew12 said:
Just to clarify the math on this, you would need 3.75 tsp or 3 and 3/4 tsp.

7.5 / 2= 3.75.

3.25 x 2 = 6.5 not 7.5

good grief. I shouldn't do math at all, but especially at late at night.... I am short 3/4 tsp.

Waiting to confirm it is 60 mg per gallon not per 10 gal before I start dosing. Male mandarin still hasn't moved.

Brew12 · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
good grief. I shouldn't do math at all, but especially at late at night.... I am short 3/4 tsp.

Waiting to confirm it is 60 mg per gallon not per 10 gal before I start dosing. Male mandarin still hasn't moved.

The recommended dose is normally 40mg per gallon with 60mg per gallon being a higher end dose. So no, that is not a per 10 gallon recommendation.

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

Okay, and thanks @Brew12 My directions on the bag of powder are for per 10 gal. I wonder if what I have is a different strength? I just want to be sure I'm not going to over dose it. I couldn't get it from black diamond but found it on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chloroquin...28?var=&hash=item35eea0c3fc:g:tYEAAOSwAPlXhEJ Will continue to see if I can find a way to get a prescription for this stuff.

Brew12 · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
Okay, and thanks @Brew12 My directions on the bag of powder are for per 10 gal. I wonder if what I have is a different strength? I just want to be sure I'm not going to over dose it. I couldn't get it from black diamond but found it on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chloroquin...28?var=&hash=item35eea0c3fc:g:tYEAAOSwAPlXhEJ Will continue to see if I can find a way to get a prescription for this stuff.

I see your confusion.

40mg/g or 1/8 tsp per 10g. That would make the product 400mg to 1/8 tsp. That also makes it 3200mg per tsp or 3.2g per tsp.

You need to add 1200mg total for 20 gallons which works out to 3/8 tsp.

Now I'm hoping I did that math correctly!

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

lol's @Brew12! Glad I double checked on dosages! Notice the male moved after I put lights on. Will see if I can feed and the results before I dose

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

OMG, this will be the death of me yet....

I decided to take out the ceramic tower decoration. When I set up the qt with it, I figured it'd be good for middle swimmers or shy fish or clowns. But not good for bottom dwewllers. I needed to be able to see the two mandarins and one was hiding in on it (has some plastic greenery). Took it out, checked for the tiny goby, couldn't find him anywhere. Watched the mandy's and they were moving around some so decided to just watch and give them another day as I'd like to do a wc before medicating the tank. Still didn't see the goby so I went back to the ceramic piece I had set on the inside of a styraform lid to catch water drips. There was a plastic bag beneath the decoration. I picked it up and searched it. Again. I look down, and there in a puddle of water on the plastic is the goby... Scooped up the plastic and him and put him in tank. Saw him zip toward me and thought, crap he's jumped out of the tank. SEarched, had my heart attack, and then I saw him on the sand bed. Fed him and he ate... Sheesh. Just went to ck again. He found himself a burrow beneath one fake plant mounted on a fake rock. At least I know where the little bugger is. Need a drink and all I got are wine coolers (hate beer)...

spiraling · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
(hate beer)...

Well there is your first problem

I guess I missed why you are treating mandarins for ich? Is this preventative?

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

lol's @spiraling I got the fish on Sat. and on Sunday, neither had moved much, if at all. I was concerned that maybe there was a problem so was going to do cp as a preventative. Today I'm seeing some movement but not much, except the goby seems fine. My thought was to do 30 days of CP and then get them into my display tank asap where there are lots of copepods. I haven't dosed yet. Still watching, but am wondering if I should just do it or observe. Not seeing the mandarins eating. Maybe the female a bit but not sure. Maybe they just need more time. No idea how they were eating at the LFS as they couldn't feed them while I was there. They did't want to open a new bottle of pods.

spiraling · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
lol's @spiraling I got the fish on Sat. and on Sunday, neither had moved much, if at all. I was concerned that maybe there was a problem so was going to do cp as a preventative. Today I'm seeing some movement but not much, except the goby seems fine. My thought was to do 30 days of CP and then get them into my display tank asap where there are lots of copepods. I haven't dosed yet. Still watching, but am wondering if I should just do it or observe. Not seeing the mandarins eating. Maybe the female a bit but not sure. Maybe they just need more time. No idea how they were eating at the LFS as they couldn't feed them while I was there. They did't want to open a new bottle of pods.

gotcha, I'm hoping to get a pair of mandarins soon, so I'm watching this thread with great interest. I know several people have had luck with baby brine shrimp. Easy to hatch and then suck up with a syringe, then squirt at the mandy. I've seen some of your posts and I know you will do right by them. keep us posted!

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

@spiraling thanks. I think I'll order a brine shrimp hatching kit. and as I think CP is fairly mild, maybe start that tomorrow. Sounds like I need to do it regardless, so I can get that done and out of the way. Can't remember if it is 2 weeks or 30 days.

spiraling · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
@spiraling thanks. I think I'll order a brine shrimp hatching kit. and as I think CP is fairly mild, maybe start that tomorrow. Sounds like I need to do it regardless, so I can get that done and out of the way. Can't remember if it is 2 weeks or 30 days.

I've been hatching them without the full kit - you can get the eggs on amazon. Sure only 20 - 30% hatch in a jar of water on the unheated windowsill, but you get a lot of them. I'd be curious to try this:
http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c9/hatchery-dish-p183.html
and I know paulb does it even simpler. but with more knowledge

good luck!

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

spiraling said:
I've been hatching them without the full kit - you can get the eggs on amazon. Sure only 20 - 30% hatch in a jar of water on the unheated windowsill, but you get a lot of them. I'd be curious to try this:
http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c9/hatchery-dish-p183.html
and I know paulb does it even simpler. but with more knowledge good luck!

I saw that. If you try it, let me know how it works.

spiraling · Oct 23, 2017

Susan Edwards said:
I saw that. If you try it, let me know how it works.

rats - i was hoping YOU would try it!

Susan Edwards · Oct 23, 2017

spiraling said:
rats - i was hoping YOU would try it!

I might if it had more pictures or a video or more reviews like amazon. Pretty pricey without more info on it.

Chris Wells · Oct 30, 2017

This continues to be a great thread...lots to take in. Thanks for all of the input.

First timer here, 90g tank is almost finished cycling (150G) total as of week 4. 0 Ammonia, >1 Nitrites, and >100 Nitrates
I will do Ammonia cosumption test this coming weekend...may take a couple of weeks more.

My question relating this thread is:

My QT plan that I would like to implement would be
- Do a 60G WC to reduce Nitrates
- Buy this and throw into refugium and get lighting cycling opposite of DT.
https://www.live-plants.com/refugiumpack.htm
- Add a variety of pods, etc. from some source, recommendations? Also, feed with phytoplankton.
- Buy invertebrates and add to DT, and keep alive for the 76 days QT.
Allowing for system to stabilize with new life.
- Add 1 coral for beginners
- During last 45 days of 76, start fish QT.

Is this reasonable or completely backwards. I know I will have to feed the CUC.
I just thought the 76 days would allow me to take my time learning the system and parameter stabilization. Not to mention, implement AWC and create a QT system out of 10g for preventative hospital tank, and a 40g breeder for observation. I will cycle the 40g with substrate and left over rock with HOB filter.

Edit: Also, after reading a lot of threads, I know the "uglies" are coming. Why not have a healthy crew there waiting?

I will move over to the invertebrate thread for specifics if I am not thinking completely wrong here.

Thanks

Chris

Brew12 · Oct 30, 2017

Chris Wells said:
This continues to be a great thread...lots to take in. Thanks for all of the input.

First timer here, 90g tank is almost finished cycling (150G) total as of week 4. 0 Ammonia, >1 Nitrites, and >100 Nitrates
I will do Ammonia cosumption test this coming weekend...may take a couple of weeks more.

My question relating this thread is:

My QT plan that I would like to implement would be
- Do a 60G WC to reduce Nitrates
- Buy this and throw into refugium and get lighting cycling opposite of DT.
https://www.live-plants.com/refugiumpack.htm
- Add a variety of pods, etc. from some source, recommendations? Also, feed with phytoplankton.
- Buy invertebrates and add to DT, and keep alive for the 76 days QT.
Allowing for system to stabilize with new life.
- Add 1 coral for beginners
- During last 45 days of 76, start fish QT.

Is this reasonable or completely backwards. I know I will have to feed the CUC.
I just thought the 76 days would allow me to take my time learning the system and parameter stabilization. Not to mention, implement AWC and create a QT system out of 10g for preventative hospital tank, and a 40g breeder for observation. I will cycle the 40g with substrate and left over rock with HOB filter.

Edit: Also, after reading a lot of threads, I know the "uglies" are coming. Why not have a healthy crew there waiting?

I will move over to the invertebrate thread for specifics if I am not thinking completely wrong here.

Thanks

Chris

Looks like a great plan. I would be a little nervous with adding the "mixed caulerpa" from that refugium pack. Some people consider some types of caulerpa to be invasive. It is a great nutrient sink so it works well in a fuge. If it gets into your DT it can cause problems. Fortunately, this algae is very edible and a Foxface can keep a DT fairly clean. Other biological options for control, too.

Algae barn is known for high quality pods, but really any source should work.

Chris Wells · Oct 30, 2017

Brew12 said:
Looks like a great plan. I would be a little nervous with adding the "mixed caulerpa" from that refugium pack. Some people consider some types of caulerpa to be invasive. It is a great nutrient sink so it works well in a fuge. If it gets into your DT it can cause problems. Fortunately, this algae is very edible and a Foxface can keep a DT fairly clean. Other biological options for control, too.

Algae barn is known for high quality pods, but really any source should work.

I was just trying to introduce microfauna to the system from the sand. Maybe just Chaeto and some other reliable source for microfauna in DT would be a better start..like just adding pods and phyto from algae barn.

I think I will call them to discuss for curiosity.

Thanks