Beginners Guide to Acclimation and Quarantine

  • Thread starter Thread starter Brew12
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What is your ratio of Focus to Metroplex? The 5:1 product suggestion doesn't seem to work. White powder from focus still visible?
I find the powder can be visible some times, but I don't worry about it as long as fish eat the end result.
 
Hi Brew,
I have a couple questions about CuC; I hope you can help.

If I buy the CuC from Reefcleaners.org; do I need to put then in quarantine?
If so, can I just setup a small QT tank (5gal)? (my cleanup crew will be one for a 25 gallon tank). What would be the specs for this tank (filter, heater, etc.)?
What do you feed them if there is not actually algae?
I was thinking if this CuC could be just drop to my fishless DT? (Can they carry fish disease?)
How about having a coral QT and drop them there?

Sorry for all the questions but I was just wondering what people do... This mean actually multiple systems around the house at some point. Is that what everybody does?

Thanks in advance,
 
Hi Brew,
I have a couple questions about CuC; I hope you can help.

If I buy the CuC from Reefcleaners.org; do I need to put then in quarantine?
If so, can I just setup a small QT tank (5gal)? (my cleanup crew will be one for a 25 gallon tank). What would be the specs for this tank (filter, heater, etc.)?
What do you feed them if there is not actually algae?
I was thinking if this CuC could be just drop to my fishless DT? (Can they carry fish disease?)
How about having a coral QT and drop them there?

Sorry for all the questions but I was just wondering what people do... This mean actually multiple systems around the house at some point. Is that what everybody does?

Thanks in advance,
Hey, just so you know, I wasn't trying to ignore you. Somehow I missed it in my auto-notifications.

I do not QT my inverts when I get them from Reefcleaners but I have from other sources. If you do, a 5g QT would be fine. Depending on the inverts you can either feed meaty foods or sinking algae waffers. Both work well. You can share a coral QT with an invert QT, its what most people would do.
You would want them in a fishless system for at least 76 days prior to adding fish.
 
Don't worry Brew thanks for reply.

Just to clarify... if we buy CuC from Reefcleaners, there is no need to quarantine and they could go to the DT and add fish or in an exiting system with fish.

We only quarantine from other sources and if added to a DT then we would wait 76 days.

Am I correct?

Thanks,
 
Just to clarify... if we buy CuC from Reefcleaners, there is no need to quarantine and they could go to the DT and add fish or in an exiting system with fish.
I feel comfortable with it, but that doesn't mean that it is 100% safe or that it wouldn't be better to do it. The level of risk I am willing to accept may be lower than yours.
 
Hi Brew,
Thanks for the reply;
Another question... if we setup a QT for invert, what should we be looking at? what kind of issues will tell there is a problem with any of them?
Is there like a guide for QT inverts?

Thanks,
 
Hi Brew,
Thanks for the reply;
Another question... if we setup a QT for invert, what should we be looking at? what kind of issues will tell there is a problem with any of them?
Is there like a guide for QT inverts?

Thanks,
Not my specialty at all. Mostly I would be looking for hitchhikers like vermitid snails, aptaisia, and problematic algae.
 
Hi Brew,
I'm about to order following for my QT tank:
- Prime
- Coopersafe
- Hannah Checker
- Prazipo
- MetroPlex, Kanaplex, Furan-2
- Focus
- General Cure

Am I missing something? or am I duplicating something?

Thanks,
 
Hi Brew,
I'm about to order following for my QT tank:
- Prime
- Coopersafe
- Hannah Checker
- Prazipo
- MetroPlex, Kanaplex, Furan-2
- Focus
- General Cure

Am I missing something? or am I duplicating something?

Thanks,
I would skip the Prazipro. The same active ingredient is in General Cure.
And be careful with the Prime. You can't use it with copper in the water.
 
Hi Brew,
Could you please clarify one thing?
I was about to buy the 'copper hanna checker' and somebody mentioned that there was some issues/problems with incorrect reading when using coppersafe. I also found that it seems there are two models LR and HR.
What model is the one recommended LR or HR?
Which one is the best to pair with the 'Hanna checker', Coppersafe or Cupramine?

Thanks,
 
Hi Brew,
Could you please clarify one thing?
I was about to buy the 'copper hanna checker' and somebody mentioned that there was some issues/problems with incorrect reading when using coppersafe. I also found that it seems there are two models LR and HR.
What model is the one recommended LR or HR?
Which one is the best to pair with the 'Hanna checker', Coppersafe or Cupramine?

Thanks,
Its the copper HR that is known to work with saltwater. I have found it works just fine with coppersafe.
 
I just started up a 40g QT and have a 10g tank that I used to use for QT but now I am using with live rock to grow some macroalgae and pods. If I want to use the 2-tank quarantine method where I do all medication in the new 40g QT, can I use the 10g tank as the observation tank to make sure the fish is healthy before the final move to the DT? Or would that put my pods and live rock at risk (other than the pods that the fish might eat)?
 
I just started up a 40g QT and have a 10g tank that I used to use for QT but now I am using with live rock to grow some macroalgae and pods. If I want to use the 2-tank quarantine method where I do all medication in the new 40g QT, can I use the 10g tank as the observation tank to make sure the fish is healthy before the final move to the DT? Or would that put my pods and live rock at risk (other than the pods that the fish might eat)?
If your fish shows signs of a disease in the 10g QT then it would either need to be broken down or to have a fallow period before using it for fish again.
 
If your fish shows signs of a disease in the 10g QT then it would either need to be broken down or to have a fallow period before using it for fish again.

That should be OK, since I'm adding fish once every 6 weeks or so. That is enough time to leave the tank without fish, right?
 
That should be OK, since I'm adding fish once every 6 weeks or so. That is enough time to leave the tank without fish, right?
As long as you leave it at a temperature above 75F it should be fine. The parasite life cycle slows at cooler temperatures. There has been a single strain of ich known to last up to 72 days without hatching in near tropical water conditions but it is unlikely you would have that strain. The vast majority hatch in under 2 weeks and starve out in days. It will also be fine for Velvet so you should be good imo.
 
Hi all, sry, more advice required... so, started quarantine (20 gal) with shrimp 1 month ago, amonia is now 0 but it’s now 5 weeks and nitrite/ nitrate still crazy high! Lat 2 days did 5 gal waterchange each day. I see no improvement... btw running hob filter with foam pads only , with 2 pieces dry rock in aquarium. Any thoughts?
 
Hi all, sry, more advice required... so, started quarantine (20 gal) with shrimp 1 month ago, amonia is now 0 but it’s now 5 weeks and nitrite/ nitrate still crazy high! Lat 2 days did 5 gal waterchange each day. I see no improvement... btw running hob filter with foam pads only , with 2 pieces dry rock in aquarium. Any thoughts?

Have you removed the shrimp?
Nitrate will read high with nitrite existing.
 

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