Beginners intro to GFO: By pgravis

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GFO

What is it?
GFO, or Granulated Ferric Oxide, as the name implies, is an oxide of Iron (remember from chemistry class, an oxide is a compound that contains oxygen) or in layman’s terms a type of Iron. It is also considered to be rust. It has many uses, some of the major ones being in the Iron industry to make steel. It is also used as a polisher/sharpener, a pigment (sometimes used in cosmetics), in tape recordings, and of course, in the aquarium industry.

000600-GFO-Aquarium-Phosphate-Remov.jpg

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Why we use it
Without going into a chemistry lesson, the reason we use GFO is to remove Phosphate from our tanks. It does this through a chemical reaction in which phosphate binds to the GFO, removing it from the water column. It will also bind other organic compounds, and some say will even bind certain metals, thus removing them from the water column.


How we use it
There appears to be two main ways of using GFO. The most popular (and it seems preferred) method is using it in a reactor. A reactor pumps water from the aquarium into a tube of acrylic, gently tumbling the media (in this case GFO), keeping it suspended in the water column. This method is preferred because it increases the surface area of GFO that the water is exposed to, thus increasing the amount of phosphate it can bind to. The other method is more rudimentary, and uses a filter sock placed in an area of the tank (or sump) that has a higher flow. There are a couple of disadvantages to this method. Because the GFO is packed into a filter sock, the amount of surface area is severely limited. Also, it must be a fairly small fine mesh sock that is used, as it can seep through bigger openings and spread through the display tank. Many seem to use pantyhose as a substitute for the more common filter socks. Another problem encountered while using this method is caking. Caking is when the GFO forms a compact, brick like structure, which again, limits the surface area being exposed to the tank water. The one advantage to the filter sock method is the price.


Potential Problems
Adding GFO too quickly to your aquarium can cause issues. Some report coral stress, tissue recession, and bleaching. It doesn’t appear to be widely understood why this happens, but it appears most think the rapid depletion of phosphate shocks the system. It also is believed the GFO may bind with trace minerals that coral need to survive, and because of the sudden drop in available minerals or nutrients, the coral becomes stressed. This all being said, it appears most overwhelmingly think the benefit outweighs the risk of using GFO, with the caveat to go slow and gradually increase the amount of GFO you are using.


How much to Use and special instructions

The amount of GFO that is needed is roughly one tablespoon per four gallons of water.
However, the simplest way to calculate how much is needed is to find a reef calculator, such as the one found here ([url]http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/reef-calculator[/URL]).
Also, before using GFO, it is important to rinse it in RO water to remove the dust.


Sources:
www.wikipedia.org
Iron Oxide Hydroxide (GFO) Phosphate Binders by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
www.bulkreefsupply.com
My own experiences, and those on my local forum!
 
Hmm I may go back to using GFO. I recently switched back to Phosguard as the GFO seemed to break down too quickly in my reactor and appeared to be entering the water column. Anyone know if I can run GFO in my reactor with the Phosguard or in my carbon reactor?
 
Yes, thanks for the refresher.

I am about to cleanout my Fluval 305. I have been using the filter on my 40 Breeder for the past 4-5 months now.

I will definetly use your general rule of 1 tablespoon per 4 gallons of tank water.
 
I use GFO in my system and it does seem to reduce phosphates. I've never really had any issues with diatoms on my rock or sand, but I do still get a small amount on my glass. One important aspect of GFO though is that it is Ferric or iron and it can affect some of your sensitive livestock. For instance, I have read that the iron can kill T. clams.
 
Tip on GFO

Thank you for the article! It took me some time (and a lot of $$) to realize the importance of PO4 control and coral health. GFO made a significant difference in my water quality. It is a very expensive product so to assure that I do not loose any of it, I place it in the reactor with out rinse it and befoer my final (3-5 gallons) water change. I then turn my reactor pump on and rinse the GFO while wasting the rest of my "old" water. Water clears up within a minute or two with out any loss of GFO. Before I would loose up to 10% of the GFO during the rinsing process!
 
Thank you for the article! It took me some time (and a lot of $$) to realize the importance of PO4 control and coral health. GFO made a significant difference in my water quality. It is a very expensive product so to assure that I do not loose any of it, I place it in the reactor with out rinse it and befoer my final (3-5 gallons) water change. I then turn my reactor pump on and rinse the GFO while wasting the rest of my "old" water. Water clears up within a minute or two with out any loss of GFO. Before I would loose up to 10% of the GFO during the rinsing process!

Welcome to R2R!

We appreciate your membership!

Thanks for joining and please make sure to post often!

19-1.gif
 
Just saw this article got posted in here. Glad it is useful and helpful to people. Cheers! :)
 
Great post, thank you. Did have one question though.. how do you guys rinse your GFO. I put 15 gallons or RO through mine and it finally started clearing up. I opened the pump all the way and it caused the gfo to tumble for the first 5 gallons. Then for the next 10 I keep it around the flow it will be operated at.

If you use a reactor how do you set the water flow? So there is a slight tumble on the top layer? My whole sump gets rust colored along with my skimmate and also clouds the water some times.

I just changed mine out and am running the skimmer heavily now to get some of the remaining dust out. 15 gallons just seems like a huge waste of water!!!!


Oh and I'm using continuum gfo
sent from my phone.
 
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This is a great article as I just started using this again. People who have been using for a while....how often do you change it out? I've heard every 4 weeks and also every 6-8 weeks? Thx
 
Great Read, I had GFO before, reduced my phosphate but had a few corals bleached. I might start again now that I know about the amount needed for my tank.
Thanks
 
This is a great article as I just started using this again. People who have been using for a while....how often do you change it out? I've heard every 4 weeks and also every 6-8 weeks? Thx

I believe 4-6 weeks to be way to long. You can test ur water and when you see PO4 begin to climb change it out. Myself I change my carbon and gfo every 2 weeks at WC.
 
Just set-up a reactor and started a reduced amount of GFO. I think I may be experiencing some fading in one of my corals. Hope it bounces back.
 
Is the conclusion here that Rawophos is better for our saltwater aquariums?

The conclusion from that one study is that Rowaphos (at least the type used in 2003) had a slightly higher capacity for phosphate, which means you could use somewhat less. In seawater and at the concentrations of phosphate we usually encounter, there is hardly any comparable data betwen the two types, but it probably altogether means the Rowaphos had somewhat higher surface area than Phosban.

Bear in mind that this study was done in 2003 based on what looks like the date code (10.06.03) and the fact that this study was discussed on forums at least as far back as 2005, so both products may have changed since then.
 

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