Removing a sump baffle and adding the ClariSea roller mat
Maybe a boring update, but hopefully helpful for someone down the road. A lot of work for what seems like a small adjustment, but a step needed to move forward.
I needed to remove the glass baffle that separated the intake chamber from the filter sock chamber, as I'm using a ClariSea SK-300 Gen 3 rollermat in place of the socks. I did a good amount of research before tackling this, but only found a couple examples of doing it with a Cade.
The collection of tools that helped me finally remove the baffle after several attempts (guitar string not pictured):
I started with the black, flip-out, utility knife in an attempt to get rid of the exposed silicone on both the vertical baffle and the horizontal glass pieces that hold the filter sock drop-in in place. It helped here, but the blade itself is far too thick to make any headway with the silicon between the edge of the baffle and the sump wall. This was the last action this blade saw.
I had researched and saw that Red Sea offered a sump modification kit, that included thinner, metal, utility "knife" options but I was hoping to solve this without have to place the order. Reading different threads, I saw it suggested that an auto feeler gauge could be used to get between the glass and cut through the silicone bond or that you could use a measuring tape (if you're willing to cut it), to do the same. On paper, it makes sense since it's not easy to find thin metal that's stiff enough to make movement through this space. I tried both. Feeler gauge didn't do much for me. I trimmed the thinner pieces to make a point that might penetrate the silicone and this worked a tiny bit, but there was no leverage with holding the main gauge housing since there's no way to lock the blade you are using. Also, know that the blades are oiled and that creates some issue with spread, getting on gloves/hands, smell, etc. Next, I tried the measuring tape and I have to say this worked better than I expected. It helped me make some progress on the edges that had enough space between the glass (filled with silicone), but this is not the thin metal needed for all sides. I sacrificed the measuring tape and glad I did.
After making some progress here, I tried a high B or E guitar string to make my way through the silicone further. This also helped me get through the bottom silicone and the side closest to the back of the sump. So, at this point, I was getting there, but becoming really frustrated with the one side, as it was so closely connected that nothing would fit between the edge of the baffle and the next chamber (macro algae).
While trying different approaches, I had ordered the Red Sea sump modification kit in hopes it would offer some solution to my problem and help with the glass ledges that held the filter socks in place, since there was a lot of silicone between the glass on these. Turns out, the money spent did nothing for me the the side of the baffle, still too tight. It did, absolutely help be remove the filter sock ledges and help me make cleaner separation with the bottom and side of the baffle I was able to get through earlier. I definitely missed some here and this helped clear out excess silicone and guarantee a separation end-to-end.
So, I was out of ideas on the last side to break free. It was so closely bonded, I wasn't sure if there was silicone there or some other glue. I had tried a hair dryer earlier, but didn't seem to help much, so I didn't go back to it. My wife suggested using a hot glue gun, without the glue, along the seam and maybe that would free it up. Genius! It took me about 5 minutes of running the hot gun along the seam before I was able to bend it away and finally break it free. Success! What a PITA, but glad.
I spent some more time getting the sock ledges removed, which was a matter of trying different sizes of blades from the Red Sea kit to work my way through. I did decide to pull the hair dryer out again here as the silicone surface area is greater than just an edge of a baffle and I think it helped me carve through easier. Do be careful with these, I used a blade that was too thick to start and actually broke the ledge piece while trying. The pressure from pressing between the pieces of glass was too much, and I'm glad it broke and not my main chamber baffle instead. Start thin, go slow.
The Red Sea kit also included a scrapper tool, which you could probably buy anywhere, but it was helpful for removing the remaining silicone residue. Also note that I wouldn't expect the kit to last more than one job unless you are extremely careful. Most of the supplied blades ended up bending or breaking, but they did their job and that's all I care about. I'll gladly buy again if need be.
After constructing the ClariSea and hanging in the space.
There were hours spent and curses declared, but in the end, it was a success. One step forward.
Plumbing is next.
. Looking at July 2022
Since the tank was the lower piece on the pallet, that helped, considering it’s far heavier than the stand. Getting the crating and styrofoam off, out came the suction cups and dolly. One suction cup was losing vacuum a little and popped off once (thankfully low), so be on the look out. Worked out fine and gave it extra pumps before lifting, but this was a scary part. Once we got moved it next to the stand, we used a piano bench to give us a mid-point to reposition the suction cups and make sure they had a strong suction. This stand is taller than any stand I’ve ever had, it’s awesome, but takes a little more effort to lift the tank on. Once on and positioned, I’m pretty sure I saw a blue glow and heard a choir, but it might have just been me.
