Best ball valves for the money

[Harpo]

There are ball valves and tru-union ball valves.

Normally I'm a huge fan of the Cepex tru-union ball valves, great product at a great price. Significantly cheaper than Spears.

However most modern pumps come with a quick disconnect so the tru-union on the Cepex becomes redundant. In this instance I want to use a std ball valve however the ones available at our local box box stores bind up over time. see example below.

Anyone have a suggestion for a simple ball valve of high quality?

Thanks

David

 

[BeanAnimal]

I would stick with at least single union valves (spears, cepex, etc.) at the minimum - the compact style is prone to sticking over time and can't be easily cleaned or fixed.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Not sure what your application is but my vote is gate valves...

 

[DCR]

You can try to apply some silicone grease to the seats of the standard ball valve and exercise it several times to work it in. It does help initially but how long it lasts is questionable. I have not had them in long enough to make a judgement.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Not sure what your application is but my vote is gate valves...

Another great option, but can be a PITA too - especially if cheap products are used.

 

[Harpo]

The application is for a closed loop. So it is imperative that when it is time to service
the pump that I can shut off the water

 

[BeanAnimal]

A quality gate or single union (or double) isn’t he way to go. Skip the compact valve

 

[mfinn]

Stick with the proven cepex.
I've gone from store to store trying different brands of ( standard ) ball valves and picked out the easiest turning ones I can find, but eventually they all have proven not a good choice. Some seem to get frozen in place, others don't completely close.
But I do have 10 year old cepex true union ball valves that still work.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Clearly above isn’t should be is the… autocorrect is such a pain.

 

[jda]

As a heavy user of CLs back in the day, all of these will leak and drip over time - not externally (although that does happen) but through the valve in the pipe. They are fine for replacing a pump within a few minutes or an hour, but if you are wanting to close them for a week or two, then you might need a bucket that you empty daily. Most of these are not saltwater friendly for long.

You can also work them open and closed every week, or so, to keep them from seizing up.

The best thing is to have a identical spare backup pump on hand to do the plumb job quickly... and not use a pump known to leak like a ReeFlow, or whatever.

I got to where I kept the intake and output in the top third of the tank so that if you need to do major surgery, you only have to remove 1/3 of the water to get it below the intake and output lines.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Knock on wood I have a 10+ year 24/7 old ReeFlo dart that has original seals...

I would keep spare valves on hand. Use threaded bulkheads so a temp plug can be placed of the valve body needs to be repaired or replaced.

 

[Harpo]

Threaded bulkhead is a great idea!

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

@jda I have a NIB ReeFlo Hammerhead/Barracuda Hybrid. I didn't see anywhere online that Reeflo is prone to leaking. Are they ticking time bombs, start leaking after a while, production date issues? Just curious as I have plans to put it under my tank for a closed loop I am doing. Thoughts?

 

[BeanAnimal]

@jda I have a NIB ReeFlo Hammerhead/Barracuda Hybrid. I didn't see anywhere online that Reeflo is prone to leaking. Are they ticking time bombs, start leaking after a while, production date issues? Just curious as I have plans to put it under my tank for a closed loop I am doing. Thoughts?

They are like any shaft driven centrifugal wet end. The shaft runs through a seal, the seal will eventually need to be replaced. Depending on water chemistry and other factors (ground look causing galvanic reaction), some last longer than others. I have a 12 year old Dart gold on its original seal.

The seal wearing is one thing, but if the shaft corrodes, then a new seal will not seal against it.

 

[JustAnotherNanoTank]

With weekly “exercise” of all valves in system you should be fine.

No matter what, all valves need to be exercised regularly to prevent grooving(ball valves) and build up that gets too large.

All the valves at my work are shot and don’t fully shut for the boilers and many other locations because nobody was exercising them before I got there. That’s been expensive for them to have them replaced! Lol