I have been using API ammonia test it, but I feel it is not accurate. I have had 1ppm ammonia since the start. Im on week 7ish at this point and feel my ammonia kit might be faulty.
www.reef2reef.com
On my build thread I have pretty much everything listed on my tank to help get a better understanding on my tank! I really appreciate that threadthat's precisely why I wanted to get off testing for it unless you buy a seneye, and that's using $$ to measure a param we can always predict without a test kit. Not trying to flood you with a large link, but this thread thoroughly describes your ammonia level based on seven weeks underwater. submersion timing is so reliable, we have a 17 page no test cycling thread. we have collections of 8 ppm persistent ammonia for 7 weeks which turned out not to have any ammonia the whole time.
The microbiology of reef tank cycling.
You can skip your cycle. Ive been reefing online for twenty years and have never waited one second for a tank to cycle, because I buy rocks that are already cycled and move them home. Here's two: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/octo-high-end-sps-skip-cycle-build.713256/...
the second example in the thread is a disagreement between API and Salifert, and they're both wrong lol.
Ammonia testing without seneye is a waste of time, and paying for a seneye is like paying for a $250 oil change indicator on my car. I can also just go off 3 k miles and call it good. we do that with # of days underwater and it cannot fail, we show (along with all google cycling charts, none are seven weeks in duration for a reason)
all the tanks in there, both dry and live rock skip cycles, done without a single test of ammonia. People still provide the tests anyway to calibrate our readings claimed, and the tests always come back as predicted= with a false sustained low level reading.
Post pics of your tank
its certain your tank is already cycled due to number of days underwater.
Any further ammonia testing is only to discover if a dead fish is in the tank...you can build an accessible tank where a carcass can't hide, then still not need ammonia for the rest of the tank.
the top two unneeded tests in reefing are in order: nitrite then ammonia.
there's a part on page one called cycle umpire, that whole section is this formula: find a stalled cycle thread. discern if its been wet longer than thirty days. be the only one to call the cycle done and leave lol.
you can tell by the # of tanks we turn out not dead, we're onto something special. we are free from getting ripped off.
B
On my build thread you can see how my ammonia has been high and how not dropped. I have life all over this tank. It’s annoying how the ammonia is still highthat's precisely why I wanted to get off testing for it unless you buy a seneye, and that's using $$ to measure a param we can always predict without a test kit. Not trying to flood you with a large link, but this thread thoroughly describes your ammonia level based on seven weeks underwater. submersion timing is so reliable, we have a 17 page no test cycling thread. we have collections of 8 ppm persistent ammonia for 7 weeks which turned out not to have any ammonia the whole time.
The microbiology of reef tank cycling.
You can skip your cycle. Ive been reefing online for twenty years and have never waited one second for a tank to cycle, because I buy rocks that are already cycled and move them home. Here's two: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/octo-high-end-sps-skip-cycle-build.713256/...
the second example in the thread is a disagreement between API and Salifert, and they're both wrong lol.
Ammonia testing without seneye is a waste of time, and paying for a seneye is like paying for a $250 oil change indicator on my car. I can also just go off 3 k miles and call it good. we do that with # of days underwater and it cannot fail, we show (along with all google cycling charts, none are seven weeks in duration for a reason)
all the tanks in there, both dry and live rock skip cycles, done without a single test of ammonia. People still provide the tests anyway to calibrate our readings claimed, and the tests always come back as predicted= with a false sustained low level reading.
Post pics of your tank
its certain your tank is already cycled due to number of days underwater.
Any further ammonia testing is only to discover if a dead fish is in the tank...you can build an accessible tank where a carcass can't hide, then still not need ammonia for the rest of the tank.
the top two unneeded tests in reefing are in order: nitrite then ammonia.
there's a part on page one called cycle umpire, that whole section is this formula: find a stalled cycle thread. discern if its been wet longer than thirty days. be the only one to call the cycle done and leave lol.
you can tell by the # of tanks we turn out not dead, we're onto something special. we are free from getting ripped off.
B
This is great news. You have been very helpful. It is crazy to think how I have been waiting for an ammonia to drop to finally put fish in the tank. Also just did the math. I am actually 9 weeks into the fishless cycle. So would it be safe to put some fish in the tank?
That was my exact concern when I designed this tank. Surface area is low. So I installed a vertex 2.0 reactor, which is full of dry rock and a little live rock, which is teaming with life! And then I threw in some new live rock in the back second chamber so I would say there is about 10-11 pounds of rock in this tank all together.
really it is. very stable for long term coming up
Thank you sir! You have very helpful and awesome! I made sure to not leave any doors un opened this tank is high tech as you may call it haha..hey you have designed a really well thought out reef that's sharp
My next question would be as I plan on doing SPS dominate reef. I know nitrate is very important and phosphate but I already have the Hanna checker. What would you recommend for nitrate testing to keep a low precise number for higher end corals that require better establishment
