Best RODI for the $$$$

JCRove06 · May 2, 2019

First, thanks for your tips and guidance. I’ve learned this hobby is one of patience, trial, and error, BUT asking you all questions helps limit the error.

I’m looking for a RODI unit for my 40 and 13.5 gallon tanks. It has to be one I can use in my sink as I do not have a traditional reef tank with a sump/cabinet below the tank (see below).

Whats the best bang for the buck...I try to do a water change (15% or more) every 2-3 weeks.

jsvand5 · May 2, 2019

I like my BRS unit. I think it was around $100

furcifer208 · May 3, 2019

I like having a dual use system with RO faucet and reservoir for drinking water and attached DI column for the reef tank.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ro-system.532980/page-2#post-5549456

ScottieB · May 3, 2019

jsvand5 said:
I like my BRS unit. I think it was around $100

This... I have the BRS 7 stage hooked up to a sink for mixing station, it came with so many adapters for a variety of applications. You could put it anywhere and it would do the job. I also have a more expensive, older spectrapure unit for the top off, it has multiple problems so comparatively not worth the extra $$.

KStatefan · May 3, 2019

Depends on your water supply.

NS Mike D · May 3, 2019

KStatefan said:
Depends on your water supply.

This is very important. I checked the reports from my municipal water company and it's pretty lean so I don't require extra stages. Some folks can use just 3 stages. Other ( folks need more, like the 7 mentioned above.

https://www.reverseosmosisrevolutio...QovJj1i00yqiHXKWbjbeiGmKlQU8ULNRoCsdQQAvD_BwE

^^^ 4 years ago I went with this budget 4 stage rodi that easily hooks up to a faucet and I can store it out of sight. I make 5 gals a week for ATO and then another 5 gals every other week for salt mixing.

I changed filters 2 years ago. I am overdue for another change but my di chamber is due - the manufacturer recommends contacting them for replacement.

Since getting this unit I am impressed with the BRS systems and considering getting one. In particular, I like the ease of which you can replace the stages. While my unit has served me well for 4 years and at $84 initial and another $30 for the replacements, it fit into my budget, but if I were to do it all again today, I'd get the BRS 4 stage with the TDS meter (so I can be sure about replacing cartridges) as better budget solution.

JCRove06 · May 3, 2019

Here is the report from my county in two screen shots.

As far as the system I’d likely connect to the faucet and disconnect when not in use because I do live in an apartment. I see that some people say to leave water in it?? What’s the protocol for storage when not in use.

NS Mike D · May 3, 2019

i disconnect mine, just let it run for a few minutes when you reconnect

dragon99 · May 3, 2019

Since your water has chloramine instead of chlorine, make sure you take that into consideration.

BRS has good units, I'd also look at Buckeye Hydro
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/chloramine-special-rodi/

JCRove06 · May 4, 2019

dragon99 said:
Since your water has chloramine instead of chlorine, make sure you take that into consideration.

BRS has good units, I'd also look at Buckeye Hydro
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/chloramine-special-rodi/

I’m no chemist. What does that mean? More stages, less stages, a certain filter, or I don’t need a crazy filter because chloramine isn’t as bad as chlorine?

Bigcat39 · May 4, 2019

Hi. I'm the new guy here but I've been running an ro/di for 15 years
Chloramine is a special case. It is chlorine mixed with ammonia. You need a special filter as your second stage.
Stages are the filters that the water goes through in series. You need to do that because chlorine is fatal to reverse osmosis membrane. Usually a filter is set up as a sediment filter, two progressive tighter carbon block filters, the reverse osmosis membrane and a mixed bed deionizing filter. Mixed bed because there are two different di resins, one to handle the positive ions and one the negative. Color changing resin changes color as it is exhausted. If you have a clear filter housing for the di you can see it change color as it is used up.
One thing to consider is reverse osmosis wastes a LOT of water. The ratio is usully 10:1. That means that 10 gallons of water goes down the drain for every gallon of pure water. For a big tank with water changes and evaporation your ro/di filter will use up more water than the rest of your house combined. The result is MUCH higher water bills.
You can change that by running two membranes in series. That cuts the ratio to 5:1. My filter does 3.5:1 becauae I flush my filter every. Time. I operate it.
I have a file that I wrote, a 3 page word document that lists all the parts and where to get them so you can make your own highly effective filter. Along with step by step instructions to put it together. Nope I don't make any money offf this. The parts all come from Amazon and BRS. I can share this if you like.

dragon99 · May 4, 2019

JCRove06 said:
I’m no chemist. What does that mean? More stages, less stages, a certain filter, or I don’t need a crazy filter because chloramine isn’t as bad as chlorine?

Make sure the carbon stage is rated for chloramine, and it's not a bad idea to have 2 stages of carbon.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-universal-carbon-block-filter-1-micron.html

JCRove06 · May 4, 2019

Wow, I really appreciate the in depth responses! So much to learn in this hobby.

I had been looking at the BRS ($150 model) or Melves because it comes with the tubes for the sink. Mine won’t be mounted for now.

w98789 · Mar 29, 2021

Bigcat39 said:
Hi. I'm the new guy here but I've been running an ro/di for 15 years
Chloramine is a special case. It is chlorine mixed with ammonia. You need a special filter as your second stage.
Stages are the filters that the water goes through in series. You need to do that because chlorine is fatal to reverse osmosis membrane. Usually a filter is set up as a sediment filter, two progressive tighter carbon block filters, the reverse osmosis membrane and a mixed bed deionizing filter. Mixed bed because there are two different di resins, one to handle the positive ions and one the negative. Color changing resin changes color as it is exhausted. If you have a clear filter housing for the di you can see it change color as it is used up.
One thing to consider is reverse osmosis wastes a LOT of water. The ratio is usully 10:1. That means that 10 gallons of water goes down the drain for every gallon of pure water. For a big tank with water changes and evaporation your ro/di filter will use up more water than the rest of your house combined. The result is MUCH higher water bills.
You can change that by running two membranes in series. That cuts the ratio to 5:1. My filter does 3.5:1 becauae I flush my filter every. Time. I operate it.
I have a file that I wrote, a 3 page word document that lists all the parts and where to get them so you can make your own highly effective filter. Along with step by step instructions to put it together. Nope I don't make any money offf this. The parts all come from Amazon and BRS. I can share this if you like.

I live in a place where water is very expensive. Or maybe I just think it's expensive since I'm the one who pays the bill. Can you share the document with me please?

dragon99 · Mar 29, 2021

w98789 said:
I live in a place where water is very expensive. Or maybe I just think it's expensive since I'm the one who pays the bill. Can you share the document with me please?

If you just want to upgrade your current RO unit to be more efficient, consider one of these kits (parts are listed if you want to DIY). The second membrane input hooks up to the output of your current RO membrane, running it past a second membrane extracts more water before sending the waste to the drain.

Water Saver Upgrade Kit

Why does BRS recommend this? Water Saving Upgrade Kits are probably our most recommended RODI upgrade. If you have proper pressure (65+ PSI) we highly recommend installing the kit, because it will produce water twice as fast as a standard 75 GPD or 100 GPD membrane while cutting the amount of...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Casper12065 · Mar 29, 2021

I just set up a 20 gallon nano reef a couple of months ago and bought the Bulk Reef Supply 4 Stage Value Plus 75GPD RO/DI system. So far I have been very happy. I think it's the best mix of value, quality, and features like the pressure gauge, TDS sensor, and push lock connections. Was super easy to set up and start using with included adapters.

Unregistered1 · Mar 29, 2021

Casper12065 said:
I just set up a 20 gallon nano reef a couple of months ago and bought the Bulk Reef Supply 4 Stage Value Plus 75GPD RO/DI system. So far I have been very happy. I think it's the best mix of value, quality, and features like the pressure gauge, TDS sensor, and push lock connections. Was super easy to set up and start using with included adapters.

You work for BRS dont you LOL

Casper12065 · Mar 29, 2021

Wolverine said:
You work for BRS dont you LOL

No, but some days I wish I did! Also, just noticed this post was 2 years old, so assuming he bought an RO/DI already, or he is REALLY doing some heavy research.

Rmckoy · Mar 30, 2021

I have a 90 gpd spectipure

move had it for years . Chance filters , resin and that’s it for maintenance .

when I got it . There was supposedly a way to calibrate the ratio of waste to good water
But said it was 3:1 ?
I honestly haven’t measured

Unregistered1 · Mar 30, 2021

Casper12065 said:
No, but some days I wish I did! Also, just noticed this post was 2 years old, so assuming he bought an RO/DI already, or he is REALLY doing some heavy research.

Ya, i saw it was old. Thought id give you a hard time