Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
The pump makes it more efficient as you really wants the psi going over 60 to make your filters lasting.
Best RODI System???
The pump makes it more efficient as you really wants the psi going over 60 to make your filters lasting.
sromero287
Valuable Member
Outstanding and simple!!! [emoji115][emoji115][emoji115]
I picked the Melevsreef 100g simply for his customer service “the best” then the price already with the boost pump, living in a 12th floor the pressure wasn’t optimal. Its been three years and always 0 TDS, plus excellent RO for our family consumption. Already brake evenly with the cost from the bottle water for home and even better not polluting our planet with the plastic bottles.
Salt brand is just irrelevant, it’s more of a preference. In my case always try to replicate natural saltwater parameters so goes with the one closest to them.
Good luck [emoji106][emoji225][emoji886]
TheReefNoob
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You can't get Fritz Reef Pro delivered to your home. Free shipping from saltwateraquarium.com and its always in stock.
Crabs McJones
I'm so shi-nay
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Reef Tank 365
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Wisco Reefers
My Tank Thread
Good to know, Never shopped on that site, I'll check it out
I use an aquafx barracuda. Had it for two years, we have filthy city water with around 325 ppm. Barracuda takes it to zero. Filter cartridges last about a year which isnt bad given our water. I wrote up a review which is on reefpursuits.com
Sent from my SM-N920V using REEF2REEF mobile app
Rowdy18Rules
New Member
INone whatsoeverI've got it setup Sediment filter>carbon block>Carbon Block>ro unit>ro unit>di canister>di canister
I just went through this and what features i found that were important to me were these;
1 - Booster pump - If your RODI water is going a fair distance from your setup or you want more water capacity faster
2 - TDS Monitor - Having this on the unit is extremely helpful for knowing when you filters need changing.
3 - Ratio of good to waste water produced. All RODI systems create a substantial amount of waster water you cant use.
4 - Back-flushing - Some systems have electronic controls to back flush the system, at specific intervals
In the end I chose the Vertex Puratech Deluxe system 200 GPD. I went this size mainly due to a do it once mentality i started the build with. I didn't want to regret waiting longer times for top off water or to have salt water on hand for my 180 and 40g tank water changes
Dr.Xipoles
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I don't know if this was mentioned before, but its a good idea to check with local reefers to see what they use and see what kind of water they are getting out of the tap and from the rodi because most likely you will have the same water as them. Its a good baseline to build your rodi kit from.
Im running the same setup as @Crabs Mcjones
Im running the same setup as @Crabs Mcjones
CuseReefer84
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I use a koolermax RODI system. It does 120gpd and they're not as expensive as most other RO systems. You can look them up. I just ordered new filters for it and they arrived pretty quick. It comes with a TDS meter and pressure gauge.
I have this unit and I love it. The resin containers are a little smaller but it works fine.
Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
I got a question?
What is your pressure on the faucet line?
The amount of pressure needed is dictated by the RO membrane. Factory specifications on a 50, 75, and 100 gpd systems call for at least 50 psi; and on a 150 or larger gpd systems, 65 psi. You might get away with up to 10 psi less than these specifications, but be prepared for decreased performance in terms of how much water the membrane purifies, and how efficiently it performs.
Recommended not exceeding 80 psi. There are components in many systems with maximum operating pressures of 100 psi. At 80 psi you can expect exceptional performance from the membrane. If your line (plumbing) pressure exceeds 80 psi, install a pressure regulator (consult Buckeye Hydro) to reduce the pressure. If you would like to increase your line pressure, install a booster pump.
Thank you Russ @Buckeye Hydro.
That said you be better off to look for a unit with a booster pump.
skim
Well-Known Member
All Units will be pretty much the same quality, it is the filters them selves that is where the difference is. The biggest will be be the Membranes and for a choice on those IMO would recommend the DOW 75 gal as they are 99% rejection rating ( that depends on psi and water temp. as with all Membranes ) and I have had the best performance with them. My DOW Membranes are just over 3 years old now and I still get a 98 % or better rejection even in the winter when ground water up here is very cold, but I also use a Water Softner. So if you take any info from these posts the most important would be good Filters, preferably a prefilter that has a Absolute rating ( it means it has been test and nothing over its rating will leak through ) and can be more expensive. Just another quick note on Chloramine, it is not removed by Carbon Blocks even the special Carbon Blocks, the bond between the Ammonia and Chlorine is broken and most or all Chlorine will be adsorbed and Ammonia will move on and be removed via DI resin, so one does not use DI you will still have to use something like SeaChem Prime to help bind up the Ammonia in make up water.
Tripptastic
Community Member
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/6-stage-deluxe-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html
I use the 6 stage, and you can install any special carbon blocks needed for whatever your water source contains. I love having the two canisters of DI resin because when the resin is over 50% depleted, you don't have as much contact time with the water, so there is always a full canister for the water to pass through. Then, when I replace the depleted cartage, I move the second one, into the first position and put the new one in the second position.
Both BRS and Marine Depot accept PayPal credit and with any purchase over $100, you can slip the payments and if you pay it off in 6 months, 0% interest.
Forsaken77
Valuable Member
It's more about the filters in the unit than the actual unit itself.
Kengar
Well-Known Member
I LOVE my SpectrPure UHE unit. Float-switch-controlled to turn on automatically when bin gets low and turn off automatically when bin is full. Autoflushes every so often (one hour??) during run using product water pulled back up into the system, as well as when the system shuts down so that the membranes are soaking in clean water. Highly recommended
cincyfishguy
Active Member
I’ve ran a Buckeye hydro on all my tanks. Has always worked great for me.
