Best Strategy to integrate a CBB

apb03 · Jun 16, 2023

Hi Everyone, I decided that tomorrow I will be purchasing a CBB from my LFS. I've done all the research I can on their diet issues, etc and I want to make sure I give him the best odds of success that I can. For anyone that's been successful, I'd love to hear your feedback.

My tank is a 110gal Waterbox and has been up and running for 6 months. It's currently stocked with:

- Biota Yellow Tang
- White Tail Bristletooth Tang
- Blue Hippo Tang
- Foxface Rabbitfish
- Valentini Puffer
- 2 Clownfish
- Longnose Hawkfish
- Blue Throat Triggerfish

My QT system is a 20-gallon with Cycled rock ready to go with a fresh 100% water change. I also have a large Isolation box and a mirror ready for the DT. The tank is quite peaceful, but the Yellow Tang can get a bit aggressive now and then if the Foxface or Tangs get a bit too close. Nothing serious though.

My plan is to purchase him in a larger-than-normal bag, transport him in a cooler, place him in the QT for observation only, feed until I see him eating for at least 2 weeks, and then move him to the Isolation box for 1 week, then release him at night with the mirror mounted.

My questions are:

1. I worry about the stress of a QT environment. Would it be less stressful for the fish if I put him straight in the isolation box? I know it's risky
2. If I go the QT route (most likely will be), should I consider adding another fish at the same time to disperse the aggression?
3. What foods should I have ready on hand?

I currently feed LRS Reef Frenzy in my DT.

1112-425XL · Jun 17, 2023

Definitely QT, stress of isolation box would be just as great and potentially disastrous for your DT.

Tonycass12 · Jun 17, 2023

I did the same thing as you and added by CBB to my main display last weekend. Got him eating bloodworms right away, after 2 weeks he was eating the same frozen foods I feed my main display. I decided to just dump him in the main tank, no acclimation box. Within a day he was picking at the rocks and aptasia. A day later he started eating with the rest of the fish at feeding time. He's still a little shy around my tangs so I put bloodworms in a feeder cup for him to pull out.

ReefEco · Jun 17, 2023

You have quite a few tangs for your size tank, so I would definitely get him fat and eating in your QT first. Treating with General Cure or a dewormer at minimum is a good protocol as well, depending on how safe you think the fish is coming from your LFS. Safest bet is to just bite the bullet and get some live black worms (I got mine here: https://shop.easternaquatics.com/Live-Black-Worms-1-81-41-23-4-and-1lb-bw-1.htm) I got 1/4lb and rinsed them every morning, and they lasted a month for one CBB (rinse with filtered, dechlorinated water, NOT RODI water.) I tried a bunch of other foods before getting the black worms, and nothing worked. Your results may vary. People swear by clams on the half shell and Mastik - mine wouldn't touch either. I then went from Black worms, mixed in frozen blood worms until she was eating them, then mixed in frozen mysis until she was eating those. It took about a month to get to full mysis. When my CBB was small and just in, it wouldn't eat PE Mysis, but only the smaller Hikari mysis - so keep that in mind. I would thaw the food and put it into a pipette, and the CBB was eventually trained to approach the pipette and eat anything that came out, which was helpful in it "accidentally" slurping up new foods - which it initially would spit out, then eventually eat. Beautiful fish, and worth the effort - key is getting a healthy specimen and getting it eating right away. Live black worms are pretty much bullet proof - so start there.

apb03 · Jun 17, 2023

Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately my LFS sold the last one yesterday so I will have to wait a bit.

I'm curious if adding another fish at the same time from my QT tank may help him acclimate and disperse any aggressiveness.