...or if you are going to add 200W of T5 to a 400W halide, just get a pair of 250W Halides, put them closer together for better coverage and less wattage.
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...or if you are going to add 200W of T5 to a 400W halide, just get a pair of 250W Halides, put them closer together for better coverage and less wattage.
T5s can easily reach 24" at ~7" from water surface.Interesting how everyone thinks t5 is the way to go. Will t5 have the power to punch down in a 31 DEEP TANK. I know I can work with optics on leds to get the depth.
Changing the T5s every year is totally acceptable.I prefer LEDs because of their longevity, but with that said, there are some things we don't fully understand about the effects near-monochromatic light such as LEDs. On the other hand, anecdotal reports of increased coloration (such as reds in Seriatopora hystrix) won't go away, leading me to believe that there really is something to it. But I'm just not a big fan of changing lamps every 6 months or so.
I know this and old thread, but I'm wondering which ballast you're using for the 400 watt Radium. It's not really a 20,000 Kelvin color temperature if properly driven, but that can be tough in the US because the precise ballast is not available.Alright I tried the 400w Radium on the dry tank. It was way too Windex blue for my taste. I threw in a pulserite 14k and it's just right. I don't know if it will have enough uv pop like the radium but it's a good crisp white/blue combo.
Thanks.400w radium can be driven with eBallast and have apex output and color.

