Best T5 Retrofit to Supplement LED?

  • Thread starter Thread starter blank
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
Let use the same ati reflectors, and ballasts (I believe).

Let uses miro4 reflectors while ati uses miro silver. Ati is a little bit more reflective. And of course ati themselves use two grades. Sunpower is miro silver 97% and powermodule is cream of the crop miro silver 99%.

Both use hep ballasts. Good units but the cream of the crop is Philips advanced centiums.
 
Let uses miro4 reflectors while ati uses miro silver. Ati is a little bit more reflective. And of course ati themselves use two grades. Sunpower is miro silver 97% and powermodule is cream of the crop miro silver 99%.

Both use hep ballasts. Good units but the cream of the crop is Philips advanced centiums.

I'm still a bit new to the whole T5 Lighting. Can you tell me what the ballasts does? Like high end ballasts vs low end. Thanks!
 
Main things to consider on ballasts...

Start Method - You want a programmed start ballast for T5HO to maximize bulb life. Other types aren't going to blow bulbs up, but will affect the life & performance of the bulb.

Ballast Factor - This indicates if the bulbs are under or over-driven as compared to the T5HO spec. A Ballast Factor of 1.0 means the bulb(s) are run right at spec, so the bulbs advertised color ouput, PAR output, & bulb life time should meet or exceed them. Generally, 0.97-1.03 is acceptable before making a notable difference. Under 1.0 would be under-driven, over 1.0 would be over-driven.

Power Factor - Indicated ballast efficiency. The closer to 1.0, the more efficient the ballast is.

Bulb Quantity - May seem simple, but can easily be over looked. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples, as one ballast may fire 4 bulbs, another only 2 bulbs, etc.

Reliability - Basically comes down to the brands quality. I'd agree with gus6464 that the Philips ballasts are the cream of the crop, and HEP Group being a solid runner-up. I say this as someone who runs the HEP Group ballasts and are extremely happy with them. But going by specs, the Philips have a slight edge. Going by name, let's face it, Philips have been a major player in lighting for a loooong time. Can't go wrong with either of them though, and honestly last I looked it wasn't worth the time looking anywhere else but these two IMO.
 
Main things to consider on ballasts...

Start Method - You want a programmed start ballast for T5HO to maximize bulb life. Other types aren't going to blow bulbs up, but will affect the life & performance of the bulb.

Ballast Factor - This indicates if the bulbs are under or over-driven as compared to the T5HO spec. A Ballast Factor of 1.0 means the bulb(s) are run right at spec, so the bulbs advertised color ouput, PAR output, & bulb life time should meet or exceed them. Generally, 0.97-1.03 is acceptable before making a notable difference. Under 1.0 would be under-driven, over 1.0 would be over-driven.

Power Factor - Indicated ballast efficiency. The closer to 1.0, the more efficient the ballast is.

Bulb Quantity - May seem simple, but can easily be over looked. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples, as one ballast may fire 4 bulbs, another only 2 bulbs, etc.

Reliability - Basically comes down to the brands quality. I'd agree with gus6464 that the Philips ballasts are the cream of the crop, and HEP Group being a solid runner-up. I say this as someone who runs the HEP Group ballasts and are extremely happy with them. But going by specs, the Philips have a slight edge. Going by name, let's face it, Philips have been a major player in lighting for a loooong time. Can't go wrong with either of them though, and honestly last I looked it wasn't worth the time looking anywhere else but these two IMO.
Wow thank you for that. I get it now xD. Looks like Dimmable T5 HO Miro-4 Retrofit Kit - LET Lighting is definitely the way to go then. If the ballast breaks down for some reason, I'll grab phillips Centium to replace and if reflectors start getting nasty, I'll replace with ATI reflectors but it seems like for the price, the LET retrofits are pretty much a bargain considering you're getting pretty high quality equipment. I'm not sure how much greater the reflectors are on the giesemann retrofit but probably not worth the 80 or so dollars more it costs.
 
You can't beat the LET's for price and the ability to custom fit them. I just wish I could find a 5' 80w dimmable ballast for mine.
 
A ballast factor greater than 1 is not overdriving if the power factor stays at 1.
 
A ballast factor greater than 1 is not overdriving if the power factor stays at 1.
How does this work? Ballast factor is the rated lumen output of the ballast compared to the ANSI standard for the given lamp size/type.

It has nothing to do with the power factor, which is just a measure of the power supplied versus the power actually used by the device. An eletronic ballast isn't going to have a power factor of 1 (aka 100% efficiency) by nature unless you have capacitors to correct the phase offset. That's a whole other thing, and unrelated.

At the end of the day, if a given lamp is listed for say 2200 lumens per ANSI spec, but is putting out 2400 lumens, it's over-driven (a BF of 1.09) regardless how efficient the ballast is.
 
How does this work? Ballast factor is the rated lumen output of the ballast compared to the ANSI standard for the given lamp size/type.

It has nothing to do with the power factor, which is just a measure of the power supplied versus the power actually used by the device. An eletronic ballast isn't going to have a power factor of 1 (aka 100% efficiency) by nature unless you have capacitors to correct the phase offset. That's a whole other thing, and unrelated.

At the end of the day, if a given lamp is listed for say 2200 lumens per ANSI spec, but is putting out 2400 lumens, it's over-driven (a BF of 1.09) regardless how efficient the ballast is.

ANSI spec is a baseline not an absolute. It's there so manufacturers can't make up numbers and say it's within a certain spec. If you have a 2000 lumen bulb and a ballast with 1.0 pf and bf it means that the bulb should output 2000 lumens at the given power spec of the bulb. So in the case of a 24W bulb it should be 2000 lumens at 24W power draw. PF is the relationship between the ballast and the power company, hence how many watts you are drawing from the socket. BF is the relationship between the ballast and the bulb, hence how many lumens the bulb is putting out. Overdriving means you are drawing more power than the spec is rated at for the baseline. An icecap ballast is real overdriving as the power factor is much greater than 1.0 and you are drawing 80 watts from the socket to power a bulb that based on ANSI spec should be 54W. Overdriving should be used when talking about power factor and efficiency when talking about ballast factor.
 
Power Factor is definitely a weird thing, but I have to disagree. It has nothing to do with any spec, or the output of your lighting. A low PF item means it's drawing more power from the outlet than the piece of equipment itself is using because of the phase offset. It's to do with the wave forms, how they become offset with inductive and capacitance loads. It's not going to be a huge difference, and honestly we've probably wasted more energy talking about it here than any difference in modern electronic ballasts from one brand to another is going to have over the course of lighting a reeftank for a few years lol - both the Philips and the HEP are gonna have a PF of 0.98 or 0.99 I'm pretty sure.

Ballast Factor on the other hand is a direct reference to the spec, and the output in lumens of a bulb. If a bulb is rated for 2000 lumens, but you run it on a ballast that pushes it at 2500 lumens, it's affecting the life and going to affect the color-spectrum of the bulb, and yes doing it by applying more power. The Power Factor won't reflect that though, because it doesn't take any specs into consideration.
 
How wide are the retro fit t5 fixtures from brs. I ask because I'm building a canopy for my tank. I'm Trying to determine how many fixtures I can add. I Plan to use the t5's along with my reef breeders led light's.
 
width x height
Giesemann Razer: 7.7" x 1.9"
Aruba Sun V series: 5 x 4.75
Aruba sun low profile 7" x 3"
 
FYI the Hamilton retro kits most likely come with rapid start fulham workhorse which is crap. Giesemann razer comes with Philips programmed start. Thats huge difference.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top