Best treatment for ich without QT

[Dustin813]

Hey guys, I’ve just set up a new tank a month or so ago, and this morning noticed I’ve got a little bit of ich on my coral beauty. None of the other fish are affected yet, but I want to start treatment before the situation gets worse. I don’t have the option of a QT tank. I raised the temp in my tank from 79 to 81 degrees before I left this morning. I also have a few different mushrooms in there and a medium sized hammer coral. There are inverts in the tank, a Sailfin Tang, and 2 clowns. What’s my next step to control the problem? I’ve read through the threads, and there are so many different opinions on this topic that I’m unsure where to start. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[ihavecrabs]

The honest answer is removal of fish and treatment in copper for 30 days while your tank sits fishless for 76 days. That is the only want to treat the problem.

The other option is to "manage ich" by feeding well and keeping a low stress environment; however, you will still have losses and will likely experience a less than steller success rate if trying to add any new fish (due to high stress, low immune system after shipping). Keep in mind, there are many things that can and will happen outside of your control that adds a layer of stress to the tank (i.e. hot day, increase in temp.. Stress) that may eventually lead to the ich managing to overrun an existing fish.

Ich is a bummer in our small systems because its chances of finding a fish is so much better than in the open reef. Good luck which ever route you decide to go. Hope you decide to treat though!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Oh and Welcome to R2R! Here are some good reads on the above topic

Ich Management vs Eradication

Medications to keep on-hand

And for future.. QT if you decide to go that route

 

[Humblefish]

^^ Agree with excellent advice given by @ihavecrabs

 

[Dustin813]

I have a small 10g tank at home that isn’t being used, but is it going to be too small to sustain the life from my tank if I put it all in there for that length of time? I have 4 fish, 3 coral, and 10 or so inverts..

 

[ihavecrabs]

^^ Agree with excellent advice given by @ihavecrabs

We are all a little more intelligent because you took the time to write those fantastic articles!

 

[USMC 4 LIFE]

I think Petco is still having the $1 for 1 gallon sale. You could get a 29 gallon QT

 

[ihavecrabs]

Hmm I'll defer to @Humblefish on that size tank for a sailfin tang.. I see you also have a coral beauty and a clownfish.

What's the fourth fish?

The other two fish I would have no concerns.

 

[Elennon19]

Kick-Ich

 

[drstardust]

Agreed. Please QT I was stubborn when I first got into the hobby for a couple of years, didn't QT, and thought I'd be ok with ich management. I then learned, the hard way, that "velvet management" was not a viable option .

Best of luck!

 

[Humblefish]

You could get a 29 gallon QT

^^ This would be better for ammonia control and to give the fish more space for the 76 days they will need to be in QT.

Also, no need to QT corals/inverts here... they shall remain in the DT during the fallow (fishless) period. Only QT & treat the fish.

 

[Dustin813]

Hmm I'll defer to @Humblefish on that size tank for a sailfin tang.. I see you also have a coral beauty and a clownfish.

What's the fourth fish?

The other two fish I would have no concerns.

I have 2 clowns, the coral beauty, and the Sailfin. I was just at my LFS to get their advice as well, and they told me to remove and quarantine only the fish that are showing symptoms. What do you guys think about that?

 

[ihavecrabs]

I have 2 clowns, the coral beauty, and the Sailfin. I was just at my LFS to get their advice as well, and they told me to remove and quarantine only the fish that are showing symptoms. What do you guys think about that?

Nope.

All fish have to be removed and treated. Otherwise the ich in the tank will continue to survive with the fish you leave in. As soon as you return the treated fish to the tank, they will be infected once again.

I'd be skeptical about any further advice you receive from this LFS.

 

[Dustin813]

Nope.

All fish have to be removed and treated. Otherwise the ich in the tank will continue to survive with the fish you leave in. As soon as you return the treated fish to the tank, they will be infected once again.

I'd be skeptical about any further advice you receive from this LFS.

So just so I’m understanding 100%, I need to remove ALL fish, no inverts or corals, and treat them in a QT? As far as the DT, is there anything I need to do, other than the normal stuff?

 

[ihavecrabs]

So just so I’m understanding 100%, I need to remove ALL fish, no inverts or corals, and treat them in a QT? As far as the DT, is there anything I need to do, other than the normal stuff?

You are correct.

Keep feeding the tank for the inverts, coral, and bacteria sake. Reduced feeding but to keep things going.

The life cycle of the ich will be broken by the tomont will not find a fish to attach to and will die.

 

[ihavecrabs]

I'd also recommend a seachem ammonia badge for early ammonia detection in qt. These are not one time use which is nice.

Also, is you can keep the QT 10' or more away from the display, and not share any equipment between the tanks, that would near guarantee contamination.

 

[4FordFamily]

@ihavecrabs pretty much took care of any advice I was going to throw out there! Agree on all fronts!