Best way to kill aiptasia

M


Seems like a berghia is my best choice
It probably is! But! They are expensive and you will need a lot of them. They are on the menu of a lot off fish and other predators! Peppermint scrimp may eat them! If amphipods, copepods, small Crustacea are present they will eat the eggs preventing them to multiply https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/11/breeder. Most slugs sold as Berghia are in fact Aeolidiella stephanieae, http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/berghia-aeolidiella-nudibranch-natural-aiptasia-control/
 
Last edited:
It probably is! But! They are expensive and you will need a lot of them. They are on the menu of a lot off fish and other predators! If amphipods, copepods, small Crustacea are present they will eat the eggs preventing them to multiply https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/11/breeder. Most slugs sold as Berghia are in fact Aeolidiella stephanieae, http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/berghia-aeolidiella-nudibranch-natural-aiptasia-control/

Raising sea slugs of the right type sounds like a good small business opportunity.
 
It probably is! But! They are expensive and you will need a lot of them. They are on the menu of a lot off fish and other predators! Peppermint scrimp may eat them! If amphipods, copepods, small Crustacea are present they will eat the eggs preventing them to multiply https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/11/breeder. Most slugs sold as Berghia are in fact Aeolidiella stephanieae, http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/berghia-aeolidiella-nudibranch-natural-aiptasia-control/

Thank you, I read both linked articles. Great reads. The Advanced Aquaria article is a roadmap to successful sea slug cultivation.
 
I have tried kalkpaste, lemon juice, vinegar, joe juice and file fish.

Nothing was long term. Now it has came back even worse. On the glass, in the sand, EVERYWHERE! Oh and on top of that the bubble algae is making its way back.
Thank god i dont have any other pest or algae issues...
Anyways im considering ordering 6-7 berghia nudibranchs..
Or take my chances with a copperband .
Ive also heard of molly miller blennys eating aiptasia. but havnt found much info on those.
 
I tried everything, kalk, aptasia X, lemon juice, nudis, and even bought a laser, (which was fun). Nothing worked. I added 10 peppermint shrimp and a file fish-and absolutely no aptasia left. I did find I needed to extend the time my wave makers were down during a feeding period as the file fish is not a great swimmer and prefers to hunt in low flow.
 
I found an answer. Depending on size & quantity anywhere from $5-$12 each.


https://saltyunderground.com/category/berghia-nudibranch-the-natural-choice-for-aiptasia-control

NOTE: Formerly known as Berghia verrucicornis and recently reclassified as a new species Aeolidiella stephanieae though currently known by its common name of Berghia nudibranch.

​
The Berghia species of nudibranch is a sea slug is typically found in shallow waters from 1 to 2 meters in depth and is known to be only from the Florida Keys region. However, due to its popularity in the American aquarium trade, most Berghia purchased are captive bred. There are other nudibranch species that also feed on Aiptasia, and which originate from all parts of the globe, however they are not commonly sold, and obtaining them can be difficult.

The adult Berghia is and is semi-translucent. Juveniles available for purchase in the aquarium trade are typically ¼ - ½ inch in length. “Adults” range in size from ½ to ¾ of an inch in length on average, with fully grown adults ranging in size from 1 to 1½ inches in length.

The ‘head’ of the Berghia has two long oral tentacles. These are used primarily as contact chemoreceptors to taste food quality. Immediately behind the two oral tentacles are the rhinophores. These are typically shorter than the oral tentacles and form a ‘V’ on the head of he nudibranch. The rhinophores are used are distant chemoreceptive sensory organs used to locate distant food sources.

Immediately behind the rhinophores are the ‘eyes’ of the Berghia, capable of very rudimentary vision and believed to be used as a means of sensing light.

Covering the ‘back’ of the Berghia, behind the rhinophores, are numerous protrusions know as Cerata. These cerata are considered to be an extension of the digestive system and form two primary functions. The first is as an aid for oxygen exchange (similar to gills). In addition, they also contain cnidosacs at the tips of the cerata.

These cnidosacs are used as a defensive mechanism and contain re-cycled nematocysts (or stinging cells) that the Berghia has acquired from the Aiptasia they consume. The Berghia ingest immature nematocyst from the Aiptasia then allow them to mature in these cnidosacs. The Berghia are able to encase un-discharged nematocysts within a phagosome which are then stored in these muscularized chambers, called cnidosacs, which are located at the tips of the cerata. When under threat or attack, the Berghia is capable of ejecting their cerata. (NOTE: The Berghia will not sting aggressively like the Aiptasia anemone.)

Berghia also have been shown to harbor the Zooxanthellae, the photosynthetic symbiotic algae found in corals. While utilizing a very primitive form of symbiosis, the Berghia is able to capture zooxanthellae from the Aiptasia. Research has shown that these symbionts continue to perform high levels of photosynthesis and remain in the Berghia’s cerata for as much as 6 days before being excreted. Regular feeding helps the Berghia maintain an active supply of zooxanthellae; however, due to the primitive form of symbiosis, the zooxanthellae are insufficient to prevent starvation of the Berghia in the absence of a readily available food source.


PS: There is much more information on sea slugs at their website.
​

Almost all gone with my two peppermint shrimp. Just gotta wait and don’t let them eat
 
It probably is! But! They are expensive and you will need a lot of them. They are on the menu of a lot off fish and other predators! Peppermint scrimp may eat them! If amphipods, copepods, small Crustacea are present they will eat the eggs preventing them to multiply https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/11/breeder. Most slugs sold as Berghia are in fact Aeolidiella stephanieae, http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/berghia-aeolidiella-nudibranch-natural-aiptasia-control/

My Lfs sells them fkr $15.99 each
 
If you can take the rock out, a minimally destructive method is to incinerate the aiptasia with a torch lighter like this or something similar.
https://www.amazon.com/Triple-Torch-Transparent-Cigarette-Lighter

Otherwise, all other methods have strengths and weaknesses. I have had some success with tilefish, peppermints and kleins butterfly. Kalk paste works to some degree as does Joe's juice. Vinegar didnt help for me. Ultimately, I think that some sort of biological control is best because there will probably always be a few aiptasia left to start a new infestation...
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Ok - here goes. Methods I'm aware of:

Peppermint Shrimp - this is the perennial favorite suggestion. They can and do eat aptasia, but are very inconsistent and it depends on the shrimp you get (or possibly the availability of other, more desirable food sources for it/them.) I've bought 3-4 peppermint shrimp over the years and never had luck with them. There's nothing wrong with trying them, but they're not guaranteed.
Lasers - absolutely the most fun way to get rid of them. Expensive and limited to the ones you can see.
Kalk Paste/Aptasia x - these also work to kill individual anemones but you have to be persistent and vigilant and they tend to come back. My experience is that they work for control but not eradication.
Lemon Juice - I tried this in the past with marginal success. Be aware that you are essentially carbon dosing with lemon juice, so you may cause other issues.
Fish (matted file fish, some butterflies, etc) - many people have had excellent luck with these. Again, like peppermint shrimp, it may depend on the particular fish you get. I have no personal experience.
Berghia Nudiabranchs - these little guys are expensive, but they do work, albeit slowly. I had a significant infestation a few years ago and a few months after introducing some berghias it was gone. Now, 12-18 months later, the aiptasia is back and there's no sign of the berghias. My suspicion is that they gorged themselves, then died off when their food source was gone but there was one or two aiptasias left that they missed.
Joe's juice/other topical remedies - Joe's juice, peroxide, etc can also kill them, but you have to get them all. (see below)
Rock removal/scrubbing/sanitizing - This can work if you have a rock you can remove and scrub without damaging other livestock. Except in specific cases it's unlikely to be completely successful.

All this leads me to my last points. Aiptasia are pervasive and can spread through the water column, making true eradication virtually impossible. I have found aiptasia in my overflow, in my sump and on a powerhead. As mentioned above, they can reproduce asexually. As little as a single cell is enough to form a new anemone. During sexual reproduction, they release gametes into the water where they are fertilized.

I have seen many reports/claims that killing aiptasia with kalk paste, lemon juice, etc causes them to rupture and spread. This may be true, but what is probably the case is that even if you do kill the original organism, it has already spread and there are other, unseen organisms already growing in your tank. Add to this the fact that their coloring can make them very difficult to see. I routinely go on aiptasia hunts with my aiptasia-x syringe, only to be frustrated by my inability to find anemones that I had just seen a few minutes ago.

Finally, remember that they are animals. They do not need light to grow and can grow on inner surfaces of rocks completely unseen (and unreachable by fish and shrimp.) It is complete possible to kill every visible anemone and have a continuing infestation in your tank.

Once you have aiptasia in your tank, the most reasonable expectation is management, not eradication. Of the methods listed above, the only one that has the potential to reach every one of the buggers, but that's far from certain.
 
So aiptasia x just made everything way worse. Spreads them all over the tank. I even turned off pumps and siphoned them out during a water change. I have two peppermint shrimp that aren’t touching them. I’ve heard boiling hot water works in the mouth and of course the other types like nudibranch and file fish. Anyone else have any special methods for removal!
This has also been a problem for me since day 1! Hate :mad: aptasia
 
What about Scats? I've heard good things about them and are coral friendly. Problem I've found is finding them and/Or finding some that have been acclimated to ocean level parameters. Thoughts?
 
I found out that hydrogen peroxide applied in the tank will kill an aptasia but not before it has time to spawn off. So I would not use this
 
What about Scats? I've heard good things about them and are coral friendly. Problem I've found is finding them and/Or finding some that have been acclimated to ocean level parameters. Thoughts?

Welcome to the hobby addiction.

Scats are brackish water fish. I have kept them in full strength ocean. Bought them at the fresh water fish store. I haven’t found them hard to find. In 48 years of reefing I have never seen or heard of Scats dealing with Aptasia, but anybody can go rouge. Emerald Crabs are considered herbivores, yet they rip the mussel flesh from the tentacles of my anemone.

Do you have a tank? If so, start a tank journal. If you have not started a tank and are looking for ideas and have questions, then ask relevant questions. People on this website are glad to help. Most of us here are pretty savvy and passionate about our hobby. Do you have a link for your Scat comment, if not, I suggest you keep the Scat comment quiet. Some may question your source of information with skepticism. Enjoy your journey.

Here is my newest tank build at 13 months old & my oldest tank build at 25 years old. Ask any questions you like on those threads.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/wet-salty-for-christmas-2017.428100/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/2...m-on-top-with-30g-ecosystem-mud-macro.421526/

PS: I may be crusty, but I don’t bite.
 
Last edited:
Ok - here goes. Methods I'm aware of:

Peppermint Shrimp - this is the perennial favorite suggestion. They can and do eat aptasia, but are very inconsistent and it depends on the shrimp you get (or possibly the availability of other, more desirable food sources for it/them.) I've bought 3-4 peppermint shrimp over the years and never had luck with them. There's nothing wrong with trying them, but they're not guaranteed.

Berghia Nudiabranchs - these little guys are expensive, but they do work, albeit slowly. I had a significant infestation a few years ago and a few months after introducing some berghias it was gone. Now, 12-18 months later, the aiptasia is back and there's no sign of the berghias. My suspicion is that they gorged themselves, then died off when their food source was gone but there was one or two aiptasias left that they missed.
.

There are a lot of "Peppermint" Scrimp sold which do not eat Aiptasia such as Lysmata Rathbunae. Lysmata Wurdemanni is the one eating apthasia.

So called "Berghia" can live max for +- 8 to 9 months. They easily reproduce but there eggs are a favourite of predators. if not kept in a special refuge they will not survive.
 
I found out that hydrogen peroxide applied in the tank will kill an aptasia but not before it has time to spawn off. So I would not use this

Gary,
Have you witnessed a broad application of hydrogen peroxide into an Aptasia infected tank. At what concentration of hydrogen peroxide did you dose tank. Please explain.

I regularly use hydrogen peroxide on corals & rocks at a 10% solution as a 10 minute dip on the outside of the tank. It is an indiscriminate oxidizer. I have 35% concentrate and it will eat through human skin. Whoever said that Aptasia could not be killed on outside of tank missed the mark. A drop of concentrate applied directly to flesh will bubble it away in seconds. Even 3.5% of the shelf will produce the same results with more peroxide used. If the Aptasia is big, I flush with excess peroxide to completely dissolve organic biomass.

In tank application:

The slime coat on corals & Aptasia inhibit peroxide oxidation. The easiest application is with a tooth brush dipped in concentrate and brushed against offenders. Brush vigorously and reapply peroxide every 30 seconds. Once slime coat is pierced, peroxide will completely oxidize Aptasia. Obviously, if allowed to achieve high density, dissolving Aptasia biomass adds organics into water column.

PS: For algae eradication, hydrogen peroxide is the bomb. When you scrub that Aptasia off the rock, you will have also bleached all algae and pink coralline algae returns or I have taken algae coated rock and brushed or sprayed on with windex bottle and allowed to set for one hour, then flushed off with tank water than returned to display.
 
Last edited:
My LFS suggest a scatt fish. I read an article someplace where they will eat them. Unfortunately they are not the prettiest and get large.. but from the sound of it you are ready to try something else. I have one now in my quarantine tanks jus ready to chump chump
 
I always use a file fish. I have got some aitapsia in my aquaria and add a filefish last monday. At the moment - it is only a few left. When (not if) it start to eat other corals - just take it out. It the easiest fish to catch IMO. If you can´t catch it during day - wait a couple of hours after dark, use a flash light - find it - catch it.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Just an update for everyone. Of course this hobby is about patience. If I would have waited two more days, I would have been able to tell that the peppermint shrimp were taking care of business. Just making sure they don’t get any food I feed fish. This is my second time to use them on two different tanks with success.
Hi Travis, my tank is also full of Aiptasia. I bought 4 peppermint shrimps. But 4 days passed, they almost don’t touch Aiptasia. Will it take more days that they start their job? Thanks!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top