Best way to move established tank

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ndz98

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I have my tank up and running currently and am moving in a week from today right down the road maybe 10 minutes. It's not a very large tank, only 35 total gallons give or take. What is the best plan of action for moving the tank?

My idea is to buy a brute trash can and put all the rock in there with enough water to cover the rocks, transfer the fish into a small 5 gallon holding tank, and then drain my tank, get rid of the sand, and just transport it over.

I was going to save maybe 10 gallons of water from the tank before I start moving stuff around to put back in the tank once it's at the location that way it will maybe help minimize any spikes in levels.

I'll test the water once I get the rocks and everything back in the tank before I put the fish in to make sure it's good to go.

Any suggestions or does it sound like a decent plan?
 
Following, I'll have to move my 55 gallon in the next 6-8 months so I'm wondering what's the best plan of attack myself [emoji4]
 
I'll be emptying and moving my tank soon to a custom stand. What I'll be doing is 1) drain all the water into trash cans. 125 gallons. Put the rocks corals extra into them. Except for my anemone rock, it's going into it's own 5 gallon bucket. Fish next, clowns with nem, rest into trash cans. Whatever water is left I'll use to stir and clean the sand. I need to tilt my tank on it's front, drill for a Glass holes overflow, then move it to the new stand set up the plumbing, reinsert water, rocks,fish...
 
I'll be emptying and moving my tank soon to a custom stand. What I'll be doing is 1) drain all the water into trash cans. 125 gallons. Put the rocks corals extra into them. Except for my anemone rock, it's going into it's own 5 gallon bucket. Fish next, clowns with nem, rest into trash cans. Whatever water is left I'll use to stir and clean the sand. I need to tilt my tank on it's front, drill for a Glass holes overflow, then move it to the new stand set up the plumbing, reinsert water, rocks,fish...
Pretty much same as i'm doing.. I'm going from 46 to 72 with new stand.. but the swap has to go back in same spot as old tank.. going to save most of water in rubbermaid tub.. Live rock in tub with water.. fish an corals in temp 10 gallon tank..
only thing I'm not moving is substrate (CC).. going to dsb..
 
the sand from any tank being moved should be blast rinsed in tap water until fully clean, and the retained water used as the final rinse to clear out the tap. we'll run out of avail SW too soon to rinse sand as thoroughly as needed. that w leave some detritus in the xferred sand, and cause the predictable problems in the newly set up tank

remote sandbeds in buckets, fancy refugia where ten fish do not swim above and plug up the sand, do not apply clearly. my reference is for the typical display tank sb, which is measurably full of nitrate mud at the bottom.

part of skip cycle biology from large threads that collect examples is transferring zero detritus pent up into the new system/any failed tank xfer where the animals moved over just fine + a mini cycle occurred happened due to stored up detritus, the sandbed and in other occasions live rocks that were plugged up and then unplugged in the move.


tap water rinsing does not sterilize live sand, its a hidden trick to tank longevity well documented and modeled already in large threads we can consider. its not that someones tank has to be rinsed, its that moving is an intercept point for the sole liability that causes old tank syndrome in our tanks. The oldest living aquariums from any size grouping are being active on the sandbed in some way, not passive that's for sure. everyone else is just riding dilution variables, or maybe they're carbon dosing

:)

Pauls reverse undergravel filter is in direct opposition to storing up waste in a typical sandbed.
 
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