Best way to transition over to Core7 Base Elements?

Reefahholic · Mar 29, 2017

Is there a formula that's best for the transition?

Exp. Do you want your parameters at a certain number/ level since the Core7 Base Elements contain everything needed to support a reef including major and minor trace elements?

What's the easiest way to do it? 1/4 dose, 1/2 dose full dose from the beginning?

One other question. Do you need to supplement Strontium, manganese, etc...at times or will this solution always balance itself out with the recommended dosing?

Please let me know. I'm ready to start dosing.

Tim@Triton · Mar 30, 2017

Hey Jared.

What method are you coming over from?

Reefahholic · Mar 30, 2017

Tim@Triton said:
Hey Jared.

What method are you coming over from?

I'm coming from traditional 2-part dosing. (BRS)

Considering what happen to D2mini's tank...I want to make sure I start slow. Tank has been up for only 2 months.

Here's a pic of the water chemistry and system as of a few days ago. I have high PO4 I think because my dry rock (Walt Smith 2.1) is leaching PO4. Not positive though. I'm working on the macro's in the fuge/ sump area.

justingraham · Mar 30, 2017

Following along

I'm starting a fresh tank as well and would like to know how much to dose as well

Tim@Triton · Mar 30, 2017

justingraham said:
Following along

I'm starting a fresh tank as well and would like to know how much to dose as well

Starting dose is very simple, 2ml per 100L, test regularly and adjust all solutions equally to maintain a KH of around 8.

Reefahholic said:
I'm coming from traditional 2-part dosing. (BRS)

Considering what happen to D2mini's tank...I want to make sure I start slow. Tank has been up for only 2 months.

Here's a pic of the water chemistry and system as of a few days ago. I have high PO4 I think because my dry rock (Walt Smith 2.1) is leaching PO4. Not positive though. I'm working on the macro's in the fuge/ sump area.

Are you replacing all the Siporax and blocks? Have you considered just using the Core7 Reef Supplements? You could leave the system as it is and just replace the dosing....

Reefahholic · Mar 30, 2017

I want to keep the Siporax. Will that be an issue for the specific type I bought (Triton Method) with all the trace elements.?

Should I have bought the (Other Methods) without all the trace elements?

Is the difference only for macro algae bed? I know the (Triton Method) I bought has the pro algae elements in it to support the algae bed right.?

I wanted the one with all the trace elements. I felt like the other was lacking important elements.

Tim@Triton · Mar 30, 2017

They both have all essential elements included in them, the only difference is the amounts, the Core7 Base Elements are designed to be used with the Triton Method in which a large algae refugium is used, the pro algae elements are at a higher level in this variety to turbo charge the algae bed. If you are not using a large algae refugium then you may find that some of the pro algae elements are not getting used up by the macro and may then be available for pest algae. This is why we created Core7 Reef Supplements, the elements are the same just the pro algae elements are reduce to prevent the excess....

Reefahholic · Mar 30, 2017

I guess I'm a little confused about what it is that differs between the "Triton Method" and "Other Method."

I'm assuming the "Reef Supplements" you're referring to is the one called "Other Method."

Tim@Triton · Mar 30, 2017

Yes

Core7 Base Elements (For use with the Triton Method)

csm_TRITON-Product-BaseElementsCORE7-800px_8496829e6a.jpg

Core7 Reef Supplements (For use with Other Methods)

csm_TRITON-Product-ReefSupplementsCORE7-2500_e643aaefe5.jpg

Reefahholic · Mar 30, 2017

Tim@Triton said:
They both have all essential elements included in them, the only difference is the amounts, the Core7 Base Elements are designed to be used with the Triton Method in which a large algae refugium is used, the pro algae elements are at a higher level in this variety to turbo charge the algae bed. If you are not using a large algae refugium then you may find that some of the pro algae elements are not getting used up by the macro and may then be available for pest algae. This is why we created Core7 Reef Supplements, the elements are the same just the pro algae elements are reduce to prevent the excess....

Ok, that makes a lot of sense now. How big of an algae bed do you guys run?

Is the algae bed for PO4 removal only? What's it's purpose? I do plan to have several different types of macros. I just don't have them yet because the tank is young. Maybe I'll buy the other method until the algae bed is big enough to receive the extra pro algae elements. I feel like right now it's gonna grow algae in my display.

Tim@Triton · Mar 30, 2017

10-20% the display volume but bigger is better, within reason of course.

The algae bed acts as a catalyst for the whole method, and it is the reason that we can run without the need for routine water changes, it deals with nutrients and unwanted elements and also acts as a food source for the corals by way of housing micro fauna which make their way to the display but also through the algae's life cycle of releasing sugars and fatty acids etc back into the water which the corals then feed on. This backed up with PO4 media and activated carbon removing unwanted nutrients/elements/toxins make it the most efficient natural filter and with out it the Triton Method would not work.

But that is the Triton method, if you don't want to adopt the full Triton method and run your own hybrid then you can, but like I say I would go for the Reef Supplements...

Reefahholic · Mar 30, 2017

Tim@Triton said:
10-20% the display volume but bigger is better, within reason of course.

The algae bed acts as a catalyst for the whole method, and it is the reason that we can run without the need for routine water changes, it deals with nutrients and unwanted elements and also acts as a food source for the corals by way of housing micro fauna which make their way to the display but also through the algae's life cycle of releasing sugars and fatty acids etc back into the water which the corals then feed on. This backed up with PO4 media and activated carbon removing unwanted nutrients/elements/toxins make it the most efficient natural filter and with out it the Triton Method would not work.

But that is the Triton method, if you don't want to adopt the full Triton method and run your own hybrid then you can, but like I say I would go for the Reef Supplements...

Thanks Tim! That makes total sense to me. I will see if I can go full Triton in the future. As of now and the beginning stages of my tank- I'll just run a hybrid system. I believe It'll be a lot safer until the system can handle the pro algae nutrients.

Thanks for all your help! BTW, I picked up the "Other Method" before work.

Now I have both. wink wink.

Reefahholic · Mar 30, 2017

Ohh...while I have you...

I heard it's not recommended to harvest/trim the algae bed and run on a reverse light cycle. Is this the best route to go? At what point do you guys trim? I guess go as long as possible until it starts to die underneath?

Last question...

What types of algae or the best to run in the bed?

From what I understand, it's better to run several different species due to one or two species that may not do so well for whatever reason. That way if one starts dying off, the other will pick up the slack.?

Let me know! Thanks again bro!

Tim@Triton · Mar 31, 2017

Harvesting is dependent on your nutrient levels, if they are higher than you would like then you can harvest a bit more often, if they are low then you can harvest less often. There usually comes a point where a healthy algae bed self regulates dependant on level and you can just leave it to do its thing.

And yes as many different species as you can get your hands on, you will find that one or two f them become dominant dependant on the parameters.