Beware of Aqua UV min flow requirements

[NP57]

I run an Aqua UV 57W sterilizer. I submitted a claim for a new transformer as mine showed signs of overheating heating which also blew the bulb. I run my system at 350gph for optimal Protozoa kill. I was told by Aqua UV claims rep that my claim has been denied because I run at far too low a flow rate. According to Aqua UV I should be running at a minimum of 1066gph. Am I out of line for calling this BS !

 

[SPS2020]

I realize it needs to be lower than suggested for some things (there is a good thread on contact time around here somewhere). However, I am curious AUV makes the following statement due to overheating??

Recommended Flow Rate for Saltwater Applications:

Saltwater Reef Applications: 2133 GPH - 3200 GPH

Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: 1066 (min), 3200 GPH (max)

BTW, I have the same AUV on my system, but have not measured the flow rate...only guess it is around their recommendation.

 

[sc50964]

Following

 

[exnisstech]

Interesting. I have the same uv and left it on over night with the pump turned off and it still works. Mine is horizontal and below the sump water level so maybe the fact that it stays full of water kept it from over heating. Did you by chance leave it on with no flow for a while by accident? Not accusing just throwing that out there
Edit; mine didn't seem to be helping and I checked flow rate and was not getting much at all. I now have it up to 280 GPH which is low but still working fine and has been running for 4 months or so with that flow rate.

 

[DCR]

Total BS by the supplier. The heat from 57 watts acting on 350 gph raises the water temperature about 0.7 Deg F from the inlet to the outlet, and there is no way that would even affect the electrical wires. If that temperature causes their unit to fail, no one should ever buy one. The wiring is not cooled by the water flow anyway. It appears that something shorted out electrically or created high resistance in the contacts of that plug and caused the overheating. Could possibly have gotten water or salt in the plug.

 

[14 foot reef]

Their claim could very well be 100% spot on as there larger UV's ( The Viper Series ) incorporates a paddle flow sensor that actually will shut the UV light off if the flow falls below their recommendation of minimum flow.

I had about 6 or so of there 800 watt Vipers on a very large commercial system. They will shut off if minimum is not flowing through. This has more to do with the sch 80 PVC heat not the bulb and the wiring.

 

[DCR]

Running the unit vertically or horizontally with the inlet and outlets facing down so that there was no cooling on the sleeve might have caused it. I run a 40 W Aqua UV unit with an 80 gph Iwaki pump without issue

 

[SPS2020]

Their claim could very well be 100% spot on as there larger UV's ( The Viper Series ) incorporates a paddle flow sensor that actually will shut the UV light off if the flow falls below their recommendation of minimum flow.

I had about 6 or so of there 800 watt Vipers on a very large commercial system. They will shut off if minimum is not flowing through. This has more to do with the sch 80 PVC heat not the bulb and the wiring.

Someone had one of the big ones for sale not too long ago...man, they are massive!

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Weird, I have the same 57w bulb setup and no issues. Been running it since February also at 350gph or so going through it (I run my return through it for parasite control). Haven't had any issues with it and I'm mounted vertically also. I'm calling BS on Aqua UV on that one.

 

[NP57]

I realize it needs to be lower than suggested for some things (there is a good thread on contact time around here somewhere). However, I am curious AUV makes the following statement due to overheating??

Recommended Flow Rate for Saltwater Applications:

Saltwater Reef Applications: 2133 GPH - 3200 GPH

Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: 1066 (min), 3200 GPH (max)

BTW, I have the same AUV on my system, but have not measured the flow rate...only guess it is around their recommendation.

Yes they claim since I flowed under the recommended amount it has overheated hence warranty is void.

 

[NP57]

Yes they claim since I flowed under the recommended amount it has overheated hence warranty is void.

Interesting. I have the same uv and left it on over night with the pump turned off and it still works. Mine is horizontal and below the sump water level so maybe the fact that it stays full of water kept it from over heating. Did you by chance leave it on with no flow for a while by accident? Not accusing just throwing that out there
Edit; mine didn't seem to be helping and I checked flow rate and was not getting much at all. I now have it up to 280 GPH which is low but still working fine and has been running for 4 months or so with that flow rate.

My apex shuts UV down when either of my return pumps is off. So no, there is no chance of light being on when flow is off.

Total BS by the supplier. The heat from 57 watts acting on 350 gph raises the water temperature about 0.7 Deg F from the inlet to the outlet, and there is no way that would even affect the electrical wires. If that temperature causes their unit to fail, no one should ever buy one. The wiring is not cooled by the water flow anyway. It appears that something shorted out electrically or created high resistance in the contacts of that plug and caused the overheating. Could possibly have gotten water or salt in the plug.

UV is 3ft above sump mounted on wall and 4 ft from display tank. Transformers are actually near ceiling almost 5 ft from water in sump. Practically no chance of water damage. I have a dedicated fish room so lots of space.

 

[Malcontent]

I've had several 57W ballasts die. One didn't even last a year. They get very, very warm and the transformers are sealed so there's no airflow. My 25W ballast lasted something like 2-3 years which I kind of expected since it's lower power.

I cut one of them open years ago trying to figure out if I could replace the transformer. Well, you can't but you can salvage the old wiring (if it's undamaged) and connectors and wire them to a generic (and much cheaper) transformer.

I still have that cut open ballast somewhere so I could try to get the specs from it and search for a suitable generic transformer.

 

[NP57]

I also noticed that Pentair allows for very low flows for same wattage. Documents I’ve read on Protozoa kill require much higher contact time than 1066gph would provide.

 

[NP57]

I've had several 57W ballasts die. One didn't even last a year. They get very, very warm and the transformers are sealed so there's no airflow. My 25W ballast lasted something like 2-3 years which I kind of expected since it's lower power.

I cut one of them open years ago trying to figure out if I could replace the transformer. Well, you can't but you can salvage the old wiring (if it's undamaged) and connectors and wire them to a generic (and much cheaper) transformer.

I still have that cut open ballast somewhere so I could try to get the specs from it and search for a suitable generic transformer.

Good idea ! Thx

 

[NP57]

I realize it needs to be lower than suggested for some things (there is a good thread on contact time around here somewhere). However, I am curious AUV makes the following statement due to overheating??

Recommended Flow Rate for Saltwater Applications:

Saltwater Reef Applications: 2133 GPH - 3200 GPH

Protozoa Bacteria Water Flow Rate: 1066 (min), 3200 GPH (max)

BTW, I have the same AUV on my system, but have not measured the flow rate...only guess it is around their recommendation.

If you compare AUV min flow rate to that of Pentair it's approx. 3X. How can this be for virtually the same UV system. Pentair recommends 260-350 gph for Protazoa kill.

 

[NP57]

I've had several 57W ballasts die. One didn't even last a year. They get very, very warm and the transformers are sealed so there's no airflow. My 25W ballast lasted something like 2-3 years which I kind of expected since it's lower power.

I cut one of them open years ago trying to figure out if I could replace the transformer. Well, you can't but you can salvage the old wiring (if it's undamaged) and connectors and wire them to a generic (and much cheaper) transformer.

I still have that cut open ballast somewhere so I could try to get the specs from it and search for a suitable generic transformer.

I would appreciate the effort. Thank you!

 

[NP57]

Running the unit vertically or horizontally with the inlet and outlets facing down so that there was no cooling on the sleeve might have caused it. I run a 40 W Aqua UV unit with an 80 gph Iwaki pump without issue

My AUV is vertical with outlet on top. Return pumps have checkvalves so UV would never be dry when pumps are off.

 

[ChampionLighting]

My AUV is vertical with outlet on top. Return pumps have checkvalves so UV would never be dry when pumps are off.

Yes, Aqua UV is very strict on their policies and they don't make exceptions.

If the unit was mounted vertically, was the cord coming out the top?

Are you sure the transformer is bad? You can replace the lamp end on the transformer.

 

[NP57]

Yes, Aqua UV is very strict on their policies and they don't make exceptions.

If the unit was mounted vertically, was the cord coming out the top?

Are you sure the transformer is bad? You can replace the lamp end on the transformer.

yes cord is coming out the top. The transformer still works and I could replace the plug but Im concerned more with what caused the over heating to casue the discoloration and splitting of the plastic plug. Im concerned about a fire hazard.

 

[ChampionLighting]

yes cord is coming out the top. The transformer still works and I could replace the plug but Im concerned more with what caused the over heating to casue the discoloration and splitting of the plastic plug. Im concerned about a fire hazard.

With the slow amount of flow you had running through the UV, there's a good chance you had an air gap at the top of the UV, there's 3" of space up there. There wasn't enough pressure to flush out the air that can get trapped up there and it heated up. If you're going to run it that slow, turn the unit horizontal with the fittings up so the air can naturally escape.

When we install vipers, they have the lay flat below the system so no air is trapped in the housing.