Big Algae Problem

Adriifu

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Hi, I’ve been having some trouble with algae lately in my ten-gallon. It’s starting to mess with the growth of my favia, which has turned a cloudy white on the encrusting parts. I tested phosphates and nitrates today, and they were hardly negligible (Salifert for both). I have a mini protein skimmer running in this tank as well as mechanical filtration that I clean weekly (along with a small water change). The flow is from an old Jebao wavemaker that doesn’t work as well as it used to, but enough for this ten gallon. There is also a powerhead in the back because the wavemaker is crappy. I got new lights for a 25-gallon, but had to downgrade to a 10-gallon and decided to keep the light (Viparspectra black box). I am concerned that either the light is too strong, the flow is not enough, or maybe both. Maybe both of those factors are the cause of this algae growth. Here are pictures. The lights are on for ten hours a day, whites are at 30 (4 hours) and blues are at 40 (6 hours). I lowered them to 15/30 just in case the intensity was too high.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
Hi,

Algae drives me nuts. I would start by asking if you could give all your water numbers. The Po4 number may be off since the algae is consuming it out of the water column.

I would start by reducing the photo period and the whites intensity Maybe drop to 8 hours to start, but keep a close eye on how the coral responds.
 
Hi,

Algae drives me nuts. I would start by asking if you could give all your water numbers. The Po4 number may be off since the algae is consuming it out of the water column.

I would start by reducing the photo period and the whites intensity Maybe drop to 8 hours to start, but keep a close eye on how the coral responds.
I couldn’t see any color for both phosphates and nitrates, but I will recheck them today because I doubt that they are at zero. Alkalinity stays at 8 dKH, mag is close to 1470 ppm, and calcium is around 480 ppm.

I’ve already dropped the whites to 15, should I go lower? And keep the blues the same?

I also installed a new powerhead and all my corals are responding well. I hope that makes a difference. Thank you for the response!
 
consider rip cleaning the nano into perfect condition, fuzz free by force, sandbed 100% clean of waste

then you can actually feed that brain coral effectively cuz it wont be compiling waste...and all your symptoms will reverse. mess with the water for months if you want to, but our system can't be beat, its why we have the longest living nanos on the planet / detritus managers. we're not dealing with a maybe system, we're dealing with an approach that the oldest nanos on the planet use, anything else isn't coming from the longest living nanos, its a pretty clear choice :)

let me know if you want it fixed

its also ok if you like using the tests you have, dosing, and timing/balancing it all out by august, that is good science not bad.

But dont think its the only way, its a way I would never use in my investment. My investments are packed to the hilt, never misbehave, and thrive indefinitely all from occasional rip cleaning, you're up for barely one. I must have done 550 on my nano by now
 
rip clean =

drain tank out and hold the coral in a cup of water

set rocks on counter

take sand out, rinse it with tap until its 100% clear, then RO. now its ready for reuse

take rocks and a mister bottle of peroxide and some tank water, mix in any amount it doesnt matter.

mist the rocks w peroxide water, and be toothbrushing off or hand rubbing off any of those unwanted attachments

rinse in saltwater, not freshwater, for the rocks. saltwater, rinse and swish around in a bucket of water and set them back on the counter for re use.

mix up all new water input sand and water. if clouding, redo that step above. proceed when the first saltwater fill is cloudless. set the rocks back in

as crazy as it may sound, this is a fully advanced and 20 yr applied technique.

set the coral and fish back in

proceed to spot feed coral twice a week and change 50% water once a week until you see marked fattening of the coral, which will occur. not any step hurts bacteria no matter how much you feel it might, these steps above make your nano so strong, no others will live as long. Its hard to accept any critique for a method when there is no other duration replacement examples heh
 
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hey look at Jon's its literally 110 gallons bigger than this tank. Its hilarious irony that we're using the giant model to replicate work for the tiny model:




notice jons is being ran before problems, preemptively, that should stand out.

Rip cleaning does not destabilize a tank at all. It reduces heterogeneity in the rinsed substrates no doubt. but we dont care :) only because of the after pics and updates over time. when things start to go south we will stop this behavior. in the meantime full steam, impress me with your noncompliance to reef norms
 
hey look at Jon's its literally 110 gallons bigger than this tank. Its hilarious irony that we're using the giant model to replicate work for the tiny model:




notice jons is being ran before problems, preemptively, that should stand out.

Rip cleaning does not destabilize a tank at all. It reduces heterogeneity in the rinsed substrates no doubt. but we dont care :) only because of the after pics and updates over time. when things start to go south we will stop this behavior. in the meantime full steam, impress me with your noncompliance to reef norms
I will have to look into this method, thank you! I’ll most likely be coming in and out of this thread (or make another) to ask some questions :)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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