Happy to provide any details you want to know. As it stands, after reboot, ver2.0 is underneath sump, center overflow, four 3000gph return pumps, two 10000gph gyres, old reef oct xp2000 skimmer, brand new Seachem Aquavitro 500 skimmer, dual 7" filter socks, Avast reactor with ROX carbon, jebao 55W UV, Tunze 3181 Cheato farm, lights are
Amazon 48" fixtures (x3) (4bulbs each) ATI T5's of various colors, 2x Reefbrite 48" Actinic Blue Lumi Lite Strip LEDs, have but not yet installed 2x Reefbrite 36" Actinic Blue Lumi Lite Strip LEDs.
Main aspect of 2.0 is my increased maintenance regimen. Ver1.0 failed partially due to this lacking, dont intend to repeat. My memory isnt all that great so I document everything on a calendar, when things are done, when things are added (equipment). I'm in the decal business so I made labels to mark all my plugs (numbered) which corresponds to a chart showing which number for what equipment. Dont know about ya'll, but ive had multiple occasions of a short and needed to know which plug needs pulling quickly. Also have charts showing weekly and bi-weekly maintenance, one with quarterly and yearly. Skimmers get cleaned twice a week, tank walls get cleaned the same. Filter socks get changed out every other day. This really makes my water clear. Do a 20% WC bi-weekly. I vac the sandbed with the WC. I vac my sump out monthly, clean my gyres monthly, and my return pumps get serviced quarterly. I try to keep a few impellers on stand by. They are a little pricey but just a third of the full pump replacement. I also label (see above decal biz) every piece of equipment with a date so I can keep track of exactly how long its been running. Weeks turn into months very quickly and its tough for me to keep track. That has turned out to be really handy. I'm no longer worrying about "how long have those bulbs been in there?" Speaking of that I plan to change out bulbs every 13-15 months. I am basing this on testing done by BRS which showed the ATI's PAR holding up a little longer than that. Believe that depends somewhat on the ballast driving it but time will tell. My fixtures are cheap and not high-output so will be watching the corals.
My decision to go back to T5s may be a little controversial, but I had black-box LEDs for 8 years and dont have a favorable opinion of them. Had several failures within the first two-three years. I looked at all kinds of LEDs but the cost to cover my tank with ones I would trust would be very high. But the main reason is the same as why most favor LEDs over bulbs. The yearly replacement of bulbs. This is not a detriment to me. I would rather have the peace of mind knowing that a $250 yearly replacement cost will give me fresh light for corals than wondering if the LEDs have diminished over time and not really knowing. The lights were part of the gradual failure of ver1.0. I have no interest in investing in a PAR meter or even borrowing one and going down that rabbit hole. And it is true that the flexibility and control of LED with timing and intensity and color is a major plus, I'm really not into tinkering too much. I find that aspect of the hobby to become overwhelming if messed with too much. I like stability and think that tanks do too. Im trying to keep it as simple as possible. With the recent development of smart-power strips and app phone control, I can do some of the same things with planning and T5s, just not dimming.
Ver1.0 also had a custom aluminum frame made for the lights. This was awesome and rewarding and looked amazing, but it was nearly impossible to change out a single light if it failed, which some did. In ver2.0 i simplified so changing out a light will be easy. Doesnt look as good but frankly, this was a mistake I wasnt going to repeat. Simple to work on first, having the best "look" is a distant second.
I dont have a fish room. Ive actually moved some things into the tank room for simplification. Again, doesnt look that great but simplicity of use is more important to me for long term success than worrying so much about looking just "so". Those of you who do that you have my respect, but it just bogs me down. I'll attach a pic below. Still dont think it looks that bad. Thought about mounting some magnetic covers to smooth out the clutter of the shelving but so far it doesnt bug me. The little dry sink is my link to my water making in the basement. 2.0 reboot included a new BRS 75gpd 4 stage RODI. I kept a secondary DI for that extra piece of mind, along with a better quality TDS monitor. I keep a 55g storage tank, and three 35g Brutes for top off and water changes. This will change to three 55g's soon which I already have but not changed out. I have a single Dolphin pump to send water up to the dry sink in the tank room. Refill from change takes about 45mins. Considering updating this pump as its a tough little SOB but getting old and I dont have a backup yet in case of failure. And since my WC will be increasing to 35% with the bigger barrels I would like to see the refill time be a little better. I also have but not installed yet, three 23g black slimline cans I will be adding next to the dry sink. This will be my ATO resevoir for a TUNZE osmolator. This will eliminate my daily manual top-offs which are easy but get old after 10 years. The bins will be connected low with uniseals so when filling I just have to fill one and all will fill, as well as one pump in one bin drawing from the combined volume. I have some black pvc I'm going to cut in half for a "cover" for the cords to the float valve and fill tube from the bins to the sump. Should look okay but thought it was the best solution considering the tank is in the middle of the room. I didnt want the complexity of having my basement pump be part of the ATO as I know its possible to do so. With the same pump utilized for water changes this seemed the best way.
Good eye Smarkow, yes its 28" deep. I'm 6'4" with long arms, lol.
