Big tank question

[vetteguy53081]

as many know, i now have a custom 660g acrylic system. Im ready to fill. My acrylic thickness is one inch. How is everyone cleaning their glass with thickness that big?

Also, im going from sink to tank with carbon filter. Adding 240g of RO from brute cans and remaining from my 360g. How dit everyone else fill their tanks?

Thank You in advance for all feedback

 

[Reefer Reboot]

I use the biggest Mag Float magnetic scraper (500 Series I believe) on my tank with 1.25" thick acrylic. I even added a thin slice of "Magic Eraser" sponge with some velcro and it still holds okay.

 

[AlexG]

I filled my tanks with RO water from my 200 gallon water storage tanks over a week or so. I did not add any salt for over a week as I wanted to ensure that the system was running with leaks on the tanks or any of the plumbing fittings. Since I run plywood tanks this was a good plan as I needed to drain my large tank and add extra reinforcements before it could be permanently filled. Since it was just fresh RO water I did not waste and salt water when draining that tank. Also because of the weight of such a large tank it might be ideal to slowly add the load onto the floor and just fill the tank in 1/3 increments everyday. The slow fill will also ensure that the tank does not go out of level when it is being filled. I would avoid using the tap water even with a carbon filter as it will not be the same as using RO water and without knowing whats in your tap water it might create more difficulties with cycling and algae blooms.

 

[jda]

I never hesitate to use tap water for a fill and then RO water after that - people stress over this and it is not a big deal.

Algae Free Great White works well, but make sure that you get an acrylic pad. With how easy acrylic scratches, I would just get a scraper on a stick and a step stool from Home Depot or Lowes. The magnets can scratch the inside and outside of the acrylic if they get junk in them.

 

[ca1ore]

I ended up buying a mighty magnets cleaner (got the model F6) for my 1” acrylic. Pricey but works well and no scratches after 18 months.

 

[maroun.c]

I ended up buying a mighty magnets cleaner (got the model F6) for my 1” acrylic. Pricey but works well and no scratches after 18 months.

great to hear. scratches are always a concern here.

 

[biecacka]

Plus the scratches are relatively easy to remove. I have tried to remove any of mine yet but thankfully there isn’t a lot!


Corey

 

[Feet4Fish]

When using tap water for initial fill, I assume you are using a dechlorinator. Anything else to condition the water?

I never hesitate to use tap water for a fill and then RO water after that - people stress over this and it is not a big deal.

Algae Free Great White works well, but make sure that you get an acrylic pad. With how easy acrylic scratches, I would just get a scraper on a stick and a step stool from Home Depot or Lowes. The magnets can scratch the inside and outside of the acrylic if they get junk in them.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I use prime by seachem and also added 1ml per 10 gallons of hydrogen peroxide

 

[jda]

If you just let the water mix and aerate for a few days, the chlorine leaves.

 

[Silent]

Most water sources have chloramines in them. They don't aerate out like chlorine does. My water source has arsenic in it up to the max level allowed. I would check the public report for your water source just to be safe.

 

[BZOFIQ]

... My water source has arsenic in it up to the max level allowed.

Wow, they really don't like people in Maryland

 

[meiersreefs]

When transferring from my 165g to my 565g I made as much water as possible filling new display about halfway. Started moving over my rocks and did my scape then pumped pretty much all of my water from sump, Old tank and 150g refuge. I then plumbed my sumps and refuge to new DT with having some heaters, and powerheads in new display while plumbing was done. Let PVC cement cure for 12-16 hours to make more water filled sumps and everything then turned on pump and checked for leaks.