Bio balls vs live rock/ chaeto. please help

[Brandonn]

My 20 gallontank with I would have to estimate 3 gallon sump was started March 3rd. I did freshwater only until I started this tank up. MY lfs that I have been going to for over 10+ years told me to run bio balls in my sump. They have had bio balls in the store since it opened in the late 80’s. Also to monitor only salinity, ph , ammonia and nitrites because if I worry about nitrates i will throw off the other parameters. My nitrates are around 20 ppm and it makes me wonder if the bio balls are a so called “Nitrate factory” . There’s also dirt at the bottom of the sump chambers as well, beneficial bacteria? My corals (1 frogspawn,1 gsp ,1 feliosi , 1 closed brain, zoa) 2 anemones and 2 clowns are happy . I have a purple gamma that tends to hide alot that I got 3 days ago too. I do 3 gallon water Changes twice a month, is that too much? , I had a ich break out from a previous fish so I took out 10 gallons from my display for my qt a month ago under my lfs recommendation. help me out with this discussion.

 

[BadFish619]

I recently took my bio balls out and used that compartment for my skimmer. I then added rock and chaeto to the middle chamber. I think its been better. I have 0 algae in my tank. I used to have your same sump on a bigger scale. You could probably do away with the egg crate at the bottom to free up more room. So in answer to your question, I believe that yes bio balls are nitrate factories and I believe my system now is more efficient and cooler to look at!

 

[Dom]

My 20 gallontank with I would have to estimate 3 gallon sump was started March 3rd. I did freshwater only until I started this tank up. MY lfs that I have been going to for over 10+ years told me to run bio balls in my sump. They have had bio balls in the store since it opened in the late 80’s. Also to monitor only salinity, ph , ammonia and nitrites because if I worry about nitrates i will throw off the other parameters. My nitrates are around 20 ppm and it makes me wonder if the bio balls are a so called “Nitrate factory” . There’s also dirt at the bottom of the sump chambers as well, beneficial bacteria? My corals (1 frogspawn,1 gsp ,1 feliosi , 1 closed brain, zoa) 2 anemones and 2 clowns are happy . I have a purple gamma that tends to hide alot that I got 3 days ago too. I do 3 gallon water Changes twice a month, is that too much? , I had a ich break out from a previous fish so I took out 10 gallons from my display for my qt a month ago under my lfs recommendation. help me out with this discussion.

Bio balls are old technology in the hobby and were part of what is called a "wet/dry" system. The idea behind bio balls was to create place where beneficial bacteria could colonize. Think of it as artificial live rock as bio balls are designed with surface area being being key. It is why we used bio balls and not ping pong balls. But as the years have gone by, I've replaced bio balls with live rock. And that would be my suggestion; to substitute live rock and rubble in the bio ball chamber.

I think you can drive yourself crazy chasing numbers. Unfortunately, monitoring your water parameters are necessary when dealing with tanks that are home to more than just fish. The parameters you've just mentioned are important where cycling your tank is concerned. You should monitor your ammonia and nitrites during this process. The tank is cycled when your ammonia and nitrites are ZERO. And, as your nitrites and ammonia come down, you will see your nitrates come up. Elevated nitrates are okay (I keep mine in the 5-10 range) as your corals benefit from some nitrates. Nitrates of 20 ppm is NOT the end of the world. I tested nitrates from a bag of water which came from a tank at a LFS and it was 180 ppm. The tank was thriving!

The "dirt" at the bottom of the sump happens in all sumps. There isn't any real beneficial bacteria to speak of in it and I tend to vacuum it out during maintenance.

A 3 gallon water change twice a month amounts to about a 15% water change. I would increase the frequency of my water changes (15% once per week) or larger changes (25% every 10 days).

I've only dealt with ICH once and I was able to defeat it via HYPO salinity and FW dips. But there are others here than can speak to fish disease better than I.

Good luck!
Dom

 

[Brandonn]

Bio balls are old technology in the hobby and were part of what is called a "wet/dry" system. The idea behind bio balls was to create place where beneficial bacteria could colonize. Think of it as artificial live rock as bio balls are designed with surface area being being key. It is why we used bio balls and not ping pong balls. But as the years have gone by, I've replaced bio balls with live rock. And that would be my suggestion; to substitute live rock and rubble in the bio ball chamber.

I think you can drive yourself crazy chasing numbers. Unfortunately, monitoring your water parameters are necessary when dealing with tanks that are home to more than just fish. The parameters you've just mentioned are important where cycling your tank is concerned. You should monitor your ammonia and nitrites during this process. The tank is cycled when your ammonia and nitrites are ZERO. And, as your nitrites and ammonia come down, you will see your nitrates come up. Elevated nitrates are okay (I keep mine in the 5-10 range) as your corals benefit from some nitrates. Nitrates of 20 ppm is NOT the end of the world. I tested nitrates from a bag of water which came from a tank at a LFS and it was 180 ppm. The tank was thriving!

The "dirt" at the bottom of the sump happens in all sumps. There isn't any real beneficial bacteria to speak of in it and I tend to vacuum it out during maintenance.

A 3 gallon water change twice amount amounts to about a 15% water change. I would increase the frequency of my water changes (15% once per week) or larger changes (25% every 10 days).

I've only dealt with ICH once and I was able to defeat it via HYPO salinity and FW dips. But there are others here than can speak to fish disease better than I.

Good luck!
Dom

I quarantined my clowns for 28 days and started using no Ich last week and reintroduced the fish with a gamma and no signs ich is still present In The tank. I believe a baby blue tang I got back in April from another store had it. It passed in the qt. Which I have a 125 Ill be setting up in a couple months so that’s why I got the tang lol. I took out 10bio balls today and gonna slowly take em out then once their out replace with live rock and rubble then split my return chamber in half with egg crate and do a fuge.

 

[Dom]

I believe a baby blue tang I got back in April from another store had it. It passed in the qt.

That is what the QT tank is for. Better you pass it there than to your DT. And upon completion of a QT, I always empty, disinfect and recycle the QT with new water. I realize this isn't always possible, especially with larger QTs.

 

[Roc83]

Question, the pic of your sump, is it melting? And is it floating in the air? Sorry, been staring at the pic for a while trying to figure out if my eyes are messed up

 

[Brandonn]

Question, the pic of your sump, is it melting? And is it floating in the air? Sorry, been staring at the pic for a while trying to figure out if my eyes are messed up

It’s clear wrap over the top, I have a cat, wanted to cover it with wrap to keep hair or whatever out of it until I get a piece of acrylic to over over it . It’s on solid floor lol

 

[Roc83]

It’s clear wrap over the top, I have a cat, wanted to cover it with wrap to keep hair or whatever out of it until I get a piece of acrylic to over over it . It’s on solid floor lol

I see it now, wow couldn't figure it out, I have been up for too long.