Bio media or GFO

Mrchase74

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Reefers,
Im in the build process of my 90g tank and as i add on to it, Im in the next phase of things I have a set up where I can add a Bio Media, GFO, Calcium and Carbon reactors. What I loooking to learn is, what is the off set with Bio Media and GFO? Can I run both or do I just run one or the other? what might be the draw backs be? thanks for the interest

Howard
 
When you say "bio media" do you mean a carbon based bacteria system like biopellets or zeovit? Or are you talking about biological filtration such as bio balls or filter floss?

If the former then i would say you would want to set up the bacterial system only and then use GFO as you need to or want to, this is what I gather from research thus far.

I believe the reasoning is that the GFO and bacterial system together will strip the water too fast and too clean to use both so you want to only spot use GFO when needed.

Hope someone else who is more experienced can chime in for you...
 
To clarify I'm talking about using Biopellets and GFO plus carbon... From what I'm reading it looks like I'll make the water to pure if using both. back to Pkunk35
 
From everything I've read, yeah I think that is too much. I think its either Biopellets/Carbon or GFO/Carbon. I just ordered my setup for my 50 cube and decided to go with the BRS Biopellet setup and their Carbon reactor. We shall see how it goes.
 
Ok thanks I will look at setting things up in either order. I have GFO and Carbon now so I will start with that and maybe alternate every three/forth months.
 
You need more research onto biopellets. They take a few weeks to get working good its not something you change out. It gets used up its a biodegradeable polymer that when needed you add more not replace.

Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2
 
I've been running bio-pellets for a little over a year now. As a test period, I took my BRS GFO reactor off line and turned it into a bio-pellet reactor by adding the bio-pellet cartridge. This cartridge would only hold about half of what was recommended for my system, but it is recommended that you start slow by adding small amount over a period of a few weeks, so this was an appropriate starting point. After a couple of weeks I took my fuge off line, and watched my NO3 and PO4 levels for the next six weeks. My NO3 levels stayed below 1, but I couldn't get my PO4 levels below .08 (Hanna meter). At this point I decided that it would be worth the investment to get a true Bio-pellet reactor, and add the remaining pellets to bring it up to the amount recommended. After another month, I still couldn't get my PO4 below the .08 reading, so I redeployed the GFO reactor, which brought the PO4 down to undetectable levels. So, a year later I am running both a GAC and GFO reactor along with bio-pellets.
 
Thanks for all the feed back every body... It will assist me in thinking just how to set things up the right way the first time with out the guess work. I have a new post coming here in a few moments. Take a look and chime in if you have any thoughts
 
I've been running bio-pellets for a little over a year now. As a test period, I took my BRS GFO reactor off line and turned it into a bio-pellet reactor by adding the bio-pellet cartridge. This cartridge would only hold about half of what was recommended for my system, but it is recommended that you start slow by adding small amount over a period of a few weeks, so this was an appropriate starting point. After a couple of weeks I took my fuge off line, and watched my NO3 and PO4 levels for the next six weeks. My NO3 levels stayed below 1, but I couldn't get my PO4 levels below .08 (Hanna meter). At this point I decided that it would be worth the investment to get a true Bio-pellet reactor, and add the remaining pellets to bring it up to the amount recommended. After another month, I still couldn't get my PO4 below the .08 reading, so I redeployed the GFO reactor, which brought the PO4 down to undetectable levels. So, a year later I am running both a GAC and GFO reactor along with bio-pellets.


When the Nitrates get to zero the bacteria will really slow down, and when this happens the phosphate levels will either raise a bit or remain at their same level. You than will need to raise the nitrate levels to get the bacteria active again. You can do this with either nitrate dosing or with excessive feeding.

I like to keep the nitrate levels between 2-5ppm and phosphates around .02ppm. Remember corals still need a small level of nitrates and phosphates to survive


There is a ratio of about 16/1 of Nitrates and Phosphates in the water and the bacteria look for the nitrates first and the phosphates second
 
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I run bio pellets In a next reef bio pellet reactor as well as blue life clear fx pro In a next reef shorty reactor, my tank is a 75gal and my corals are happy as can b with no traces of phosphates
 

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