Bio-spira works great
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OP
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So this actually the first time I'm setting up a tank with dry rock and I never had diatoms this bad. Anything I should do? Should I run a UV? I'm not running a skimmer.
Redfoxtang
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I believe your diatom outbreak is due to using tap water. I would start, if you can doing water changes with RODI water!! But a UV also would help as well!
OP
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Thx. My rodi should come tomorrow...maybe I'll throw a UV in there for the time being.
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Why not just rip clean it. We're out four years now in one thread remedying that exact condition about a hundred examples before and after, let's do next up.
Lift out all rocks set on the counter.
Drain and catch your water and fish and don't kick up any clouds. Stop when you get to muddy water. Hold anemone rock underwater in clean sw, do work when he's retracted, so morning or whichever time
Take apart the rest of the tank and clean that filth out, rinse your bed with clean water until it's 100% cloud free.
Assemble now a rinsed cloudless bed in a clear tank
Refill with water add rocks back. Add fish, clean and no method beats this method. I realize the going public notions about stability/aware, but our thread is written to address the invasions listening to the public causes heh
The sole point of the method is removing the detritus clouding and silt portion and invader out now, vs any method using a hesitation approach. Plus it's fitting for your tank the rascal is tough.
Lift out all rocks set on the counter.
Drain and catch your water and fish and don't kick up any clouds. Stop when you get to muddy water. Hold anemone rock underwater in clean sw, do work when he's retracted, so morning or whichever time
Take apart the rest of the tank and clean that filth out, rinse your bed with clean water until it's 100% cloud free.
Assemble now a rinsed cloudless bed in a clear tank
Refill with water add rocks back. Add fish, clean and no method beats this method. I realize the going public notions about stability/aware, but our thread is written to address the invasions listening to the public causes heh
The sole point of the method is removing the detritus clouding and silt portion and invader out now, vs any method using a hesitation approach. Plus it's fitting for your tank the rascal is tough.
OP
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Lol that's not gonna happen. Isn't a diatom outbreak normal for a new tank?
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Handle it as you see fit, with the clouding in place comes next phase invader after easy diatoms. This is how we collect eventual entrants lol
Left the record reflect all entrants in the sandbed rinse thread were originally a series of reasons they'd never, ever access the tank directly. Onward u go it's all working fine. You can see your lighting approach and nutrient balance selects really fast for invasions although I agree it's light diatoms currently, predicting where a tank is heading is potentially valuable ability. You have the ability to prepare for invasions and if your water or lighting details select for fast growth, a hands on approach early on can save your tank. It selects for benthic non coral growths so fast I had to verify it at the start. Imagine month four of zero hand guiding and low cuc, direct intervention early on, strong water changes is advised due to succession of invasions not the particular invasion. If you reach in and grab sand and a huge cloud erupts, that stuff + dead diatoms in tank is what the next round feeds on.
Light topical siphoning could help guide with low work
Left the record reflect all entrants in the sandbed rinse thread were originally a series of reasons they'd never, ever access the tank directly. Onward u go it's all working fine. You can see your lighting approach and nutrient balance selects really fast for invasions although I agree it's light diatoms currently, predicting where a tank is heading is potentially valuable ability. You have the ability to prepare for invasions and if your water or lighting details select for fast growth, a hands on approach early on can save your tank. It selects for benthic non coral growths so fast I had to verify it at the start. Imagine month four of zero hand guiding and low cuc, direct intervention early on, strong water changes is advised due to succession of invasions not the particular invasion. If you reach in and grab sand and a huge cloud erupts, that stuff + dead diatoms in tank is what the next round feeds on.
Light topical siphoning could help guide with low work
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OP
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Lol. I'm going to try some phosgaurd and a UV and see what happens
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Shoelace we've got a high bar to maintain with this bad boy insta setup. Reaching 6 mos marker, 1 yr is so critical for showing possibilities with the method. You already know that 98% of people attempting this will just let the tank self-wreck with invasions typical for new tanks, or they'll put off water changes too long and send things sideways.
if you stay busy with preemptive, not reactive water changes and siphoning off all new growths so they dont compound, diatoms included, if you just feed that system and keep it sparkling clean by hand then as it matures and real coralline takes over, you work less.
From all the skip cycle tanks Ive seen, the ongoing error is the hands-off-till-doom approach where we can't get them to get in and get dirty no matter what; they'll accept any manner of compounding growth, horrible looking algae, all in the name of uglies and for that first 5 mos the tank looks horrible.
I see this routinely, on legit cycled systems that used bottle bac and testing and waited the 30 days.
your insta start was for nitrifiers, which are there for sure. how it looks in six months has absolutely nothing to do with your cycle, its how you care for post-cycled new tanks that determine if you can win buy-in from the skeptical masses here, and you should do that. I love seeing rules pressed, and won
That anemone wants your fish bioload waste as side-support, it wants meaty fare offered to it (find what it actually eats and repeat) and it wants clean water changes with no invasions to leak offending chems or irritants into the water. *Watch out for dinos, your tank is low on varying benthic pods and creatures so any mats that form (seeming diatoms) need to be removed heartily so they dont compound and support dinos which can wreck the system. I feel making predictions is critical, ahead of time,, vs just seeing what happens.
stores like Algen sell bagged pods, whats missing from your insta setup and what constitutes real live rock.
you can be experimenting with spot-feeding and very high quality reef feeds vs just some pellets. You can go beyond basic feed and see what happens into driving this reef and anemone to work and ensuring that happens by being busy for six months, not reactive. hope that helps. I want to see this work/usher in new options for the hobby and thats one tricky animal to try it with.
if you stay busy with preemptive, not reactive water changes and siphoning off all new growths so they dont compound, diatoms included, if you just feed that system and keep it sparkling clean by hand then as it matures and real coralline takes over, you work less.
From all the skip cycle tanks Ive seen, the ongoing error is the hands-off-till-doom approach where we can't get them to get in and get dirty no matter what; they'll accept any manner of compounding growth, horrible looking algae, all in the name of uglies and for that first 5 mos the tank looks horrible.
I see this routinely, on legit cycled systems that used bottle bac and testing and waited the 30 days.
your insta start was for nitrifiers, which are there for sure. how it looks in six months has absolutely nothing to do with your cycle, its how you care for post-cycled new tanks that determine if you can win buy-in from the skeptical masses here, and you should do that. I love seeing rules pressed, and won
That anemone wants your fish bioload waste as side-support, it wants meaty fare offered to it (find what it actually eats and repeat) and it wants clean water changes with no invasions to leak offending chems or irritants into the water. *Watch out for dinos, your tank is low on varying benthic pods and creatures so any mats that form (seeming diatoms) need to be removed heartily so they dont compound and support dinos which can wreck the system. I feel making predictions is critical, ahead of time,, vs just seeing what happens.
stores like Algen sell bagged pods, whats missing from your insta setup and what constitutes real live rock.
you can be experimenting with spot-feeding and very high quality reef feeds vs just some pellets. You can go beyond basic feed and see what happens into driving this reef and anemone to work and ensuring that happens by being busy for six months, not reactive. hope that helps. I want to see this work/usher in new options for the hobby and thats one tricky animal to try it with.
OP
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=this is good for the hobby and great for science of animal preservation options. very very helpful contribution to reefing, I see it as a big deal for opening corridors away from old/into the new.
you opted out of cycling and opted out of uglies phasing into a reef you enjoy always. welcome 2020
you opted out of cycling and opted out of uglies phasing into a reef you enjoy always. welcome 2020
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This thread proves succession of bac/nitrite to nitrate makers doesn't matter.
We've all been mega hyped into thinking any mis step stalls or stops a cycle
that what happens to nitrite matters to ammonia processing in a reef tank vs a lab slide
It doesn't.
We've all been mega hyped into thinking any mis step stalls or stops a cycle
that what happens to nitrite matters to ammonia processing in a reef tank vs a lab slide
It doesn't.
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I love bio spira. I use it exclusively for my quarantine tanks. Never see ammonia and I've quarantined quite a few fish at a time. @HotRocks and @4FordFamily swear by it too.
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Yup. Dr Tims is good but it’s more touch and go. For it, I think the issue is that some of it sits in warehouses too long too hot or too cold. Because a higher volume of Biospira moves through distribution that it’s seen less of it or perhaps the strains are more resilient. They still go bad in very very hot or freezing temperatures for too long but Dr Tim’s I had much bigger issues with.
