BioCube 32 Fish Swimming Erratically

SunshineGirl88

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I'm a noob and am steadily learning how to care for a salt water aquarium in a BioCube 32.
I was out all day today and came home to notice the fish swimming erratically, sometimes twitching and shuddering, sometimes flip flopping abruptly mid swim, and sometimes just getting really slow. This is a big difference. I'm assuming this is because of the Nitrogen cycle.... I'm very concerned these fish may die ...

Here's some background information based on instructions I'm getting from the fish store owner:
=Added live rock & salt water. Waited a day. Water test at store was good to go.
=Added 4 damselfish (per owner's instructions) to tank.
=Feeding them 1 cube of brine shrimp per day...
=About 1 week has passed
=I added a fake decorative rock and fake plants two days ago because the fish seemed bored.
=I thought I had installed the factory default filter correctly- but assumed it was an air filter and not a water filter. So I didn't submerge it under water. Yesterday (after 6 days) I submerged it but I'm not sure if it's installed correctly... and it's concerning because there are no clear visuals online of how to install the filtration system.
 
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Interesting that your water test results after only one day are "good to go". Normally cycling is a much longer process and assume you added something like Seachem's Stability or Dr. Tim's to quick start the cycle. Would be helpful if you could provide test result numbers on this forum and you'll probably want to buy a kit or get your LFS to run tests on a regular basis until you're sure your tank has stabilized.

Think I would remove decorative rock and artificial plants until I was sure water parameters are good; they may be source of some contamination.

For filtration system, facing tank you'll probably want to put a heater in the chamber to the right which has the two water intakes. Then, in the middle chamber, most reefers put in their choice of media like bioballs, Marine Pure, Chemipure, Purigen, etc (might want to search this forum to get some ideas as to what most reefers have found to be effective). Leftmost chamber will contain the Coralife return pump placed on the bottom so it will pull water across the right and middle chambers, through the media, and then return it to the tank.

Any pics of you fish you can post? Would really help with diagnosis and treatment recommendations..

Don't worry; all of us started out having to overcome some problems and have learned that research and patience are all that is necessary to have a beautiful reef.
 
Here's a photo of the filter (it has only been submerged for a day now)
I don't have additional filter materials in the tank.
Here's a video- but it doesn't quite capture all of the erratic behavior. It shows some of it.


IMG_3936.JPG
 
Looks like normal swimming behaviors to me unless I'm missing something. Are they eating well? Didn't see any live rock in video and that is important with this tank because it will house your "good" bacteria which convert ammonia to harmless nitrogen gas. Not sure the white decorative rock is porous enough to help in this respect.
Water flow in filter chambers looks good. Might want to think about adding a bag of Purigen if nitrates start rising. Again, important to know test result numbers to fine tune your filter system, identify a schedule for water changes, etc.
 
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Looks like normal swimming behaviors to me unless I'm missing something. Are they eating well? Didn't see any live rock in video and that is important with this tank because it will house your "good" bacteria which convert ammonia to harmless nitrogen gas. Not sure the white decorative rock is porous enough to help in this respect.
Water flow in filter chambers looks good. Might want to think about adding a bag of Purigen if nitrates start rising. Again, important to know test result numbers to fine tune your filter system, identify a schedule for water changes, etc.

Thanks- I think the big thing was that the swimming behavior seemed much slower and different than they had been previously. I may be over-reacting because I have "new parent syndrome."

I will look into Purigen! I will also call fish store tomorrow and look into getting a testing kit. :-) That will help me sleep at night. The live rock is the rock at the bottom of the tank- it came in a bag with water in it... or at least I think it's called live rock. Thanks again!
 
Thanks- I think the big thing was that the swimming behavior seemed much slower and different than they had been previously. I may be over-reacting because I have "new parent syndrome."

I will look into Purigen! I will also call fish store tomorrow and look into getting a testing kit. :) That will help me sleep at night. The live rock is the rock at the bottom of the tank- it came in a bag with water in it... or at least I think it's called live rock. Thanks again!
I don't want to seem like a puts , BUT
can you give us the parameters please ie: ammonia ,ph ,nitrite , nitrate, temp
 
Sounds like you want to do things right and take best care of your fish. Damsels swim with a somewhat jerky motion compared to other fish and they are also getting used to a new environment. Many of the reefers here use the Red Sea or Salifert test kits and some have found the API ones lacking precision; Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply and Amazon are good sources for them and both MD and BRS have some good YouTube videos about a wide variety of subjects, including water testing.

You've got what is often called live sand, and the white rock probably doesn't do much for biological filtration - you might want to look for some hard scape dry rock for placement in the tank that does (CaribSea, RealReef, etc.), or use something like Marine Pure in chamber #2.

Finally, I would recommend going to other LFS's to get different opinions, recommendations and experiences; take pictures with you and test results if you have them.

Good luck
 
I don't want to seem like a puts , BUT
can you give us the parameters please ie: ammonia ,ph ,nitrite , nitrate, temp

I wish I could! Now I'm realizing that I need to buy the testing equipment. I'll do that tomorrow and fill you all in. I'm feeling a little more confident that they are ok.
 
I wish I could! Now I'm realizing that I need to buy the testing equipment. I'll do that tomorrow and fill you all in. I'm feeling a little more confident that they are ok.
;Wideyed
 
I wish I could! Now I'm realizing that I need to buy the testing equipment. I'll do that tomorrow and fill you all in. I'm feeling a little more confident that they are ok.
Thats a good thing ,and bring some water sample in with you so they can test it for you as well.
 
you also might want to check out InTank.com to see the mods you could (should) make to your bio cube . They are great Tanks and if you need more help Trillions of reefers here will chime in and help .
WELCOME!
 
HI there
I also have a Biocube 32, congratulations! It is a really nice system although you need more than just the carbon filter it came with. It looks like you have everything installed correctly.

What you have in your tank is "live sand" not "live rock". Live sand is not as useful. Live rock is actual pieces of rock that bacteria lives in and on. The bacteria is incredibly important because it processes your fish waste (ammonia into nitrite then nitrate - effectively turning it from fish poison to a less toxic suotbstance. If you followed the links above you've got plenty of reading material). Ask your LFS if they sell it. Without it, the ammonia levels in your tank will become toxic very quickly, likely killing your fish.
There are many ways to filter these tanks. Head over to the "Nano Reef Forum" for lots of ideas. As an example, I use Chemipure Elite and a phosphorus reducing filter media, as well as ample live rock.

Cindy
 
One more thing............this new product from CaribSea looks natural, provides hiding places, etc., and will help you establish your biological filtration: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/shap...yhOYkAAp5qvLyiMmgtSAgZ7MFOnbW9nBoCNdMQAvD_BwE

There are other choices available for dry rock and I would probably stay away from real "live rock" until you gain a little more experience; sometimes it contains unwanted "hitchhikers" and may need to be cured for awhile before you put it in your tank. Then again, it is hard to beat the look of live rock and I use Tukani in my tanks.

This is the fun part of reefing; whatever you create will be unique to you.
 
I would be surprised to discover that ammonia / nitrate levels are zero (which they should be) in your tank.

Your LFS has given you some half-truths and some outright incorrect advice, I'm afraid. I'd begin by taking another sample of water to them for testing, and have them write down the _actual_levels_ for you. Just saying "your water's fine" means very little - unless you're planning a swim on a hot summer's day.

You may wish to add (and probably should) some bottled bacteria, such as Dr. Tim's One-and-Only, Bio-Spira or Seachem Stability. You should also add some liverock, and at this point, it might not be a bad idea to see if you can source some from an active and healthy marine system. Liverock is generally some form of fossil coral, aragonite, full of tiny holes in which the bacteria that break down ammonia can grow and populate. The plastic plants and plastic "Texas holey limestone" are only sitting around and looking pretty - the rock in a successful tank has a real job to do, and does it well!

After you've got a handle on the chemistry, and get your ammonia cycle done and your tank somewhat stable, take some time to research the fish you've got. Get to know them, and what you can expect from them.

Until you _do_ have the ammonia / nitrogen cycle stabilized, you may want to consider reducing feedings. Too much food right now may add to raising the ammonia levels beyond what's acceptable to the fish. ("Zero" is a good number for ammonia - any other number is a situation that needs immediate attention.)

~Bruce
 

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