Biocube Chaeto Reactor Help

[Charlie G]

Hi all,

Hoping someone can help.

I am in the process of starting a DIY Chaeto reactor for my Biocube 32 and a 10 gallon tank I have. Both are with an Aquamaxx media reactor.

For my Biocube the reactor will be under the stand. I did put valves on each of the tubes close to the reactor. I am concerned about siphoning when I need to open the chamber as it is below the DT. My question is how do you change out or remove some of the Chaeto? Once I open the reactor will water flow out? Although the valves are somewhat close to the chamber there will be some water in the tubing. Any suggestions?

For the 10 gallon tank the Aquamaxx reactor will hang off the back. I don’t have any valves on the tubing but I don’t think I will have a siphon effect as the reactor will be above the tank. Wondering if there is something I need to do here when I unscrew the lid to remove Chaeto to avoid spilling water.

I will post pictures of both.
First picture is my Biocube reactor that is under my stand (below DT-no sump).

Second picture is the one on my 10 gallon (top of reactor will be higher than the tank water level).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[KrisReef]

The old Magnum canister pumps came with valves that also had a disconnect feature so that you could stop water from flowing and then disconnect the hoses at the valve to move the canister for maintenance, especially removing the lid for media changes. If you can find disconnect fittings for tubing or make some with a union fitting and hose barbs it would work the same way.

Not perfectly dry, but still workable.

 

[FUNGI]

For the HOB, I would loosely cover with a cloth/paper/cardboard sleeve....should get rid of most of the light overspill..... just IMO

 

[Charlie G]

The old Magnum canister pumps came with valves that also had a disconnect feature so that you could stop water from flowing and then disconnect the hoses at the valve to move the canister for maintenance, especially removing the lid for media changes. If you can find disconnect fittings for tubing or make some with a union fitting and hose barbs it would work the same way.

Not perfectly dry, but still workable.

That’s a good idea. I have the valves in line but a quick disconnect can allow me to service it somewhere else around minimize the mess. Not sure I will be able to find a quick disconnect for 5/8 “ (outer diameter) (1/2 in inner diameter) vinyl tubing.

I am able to move it and place that container under it (seen in the photo) to do some work. That might do for now.

Thanks.

 

[Charlie G]

For the HOB, I would loosely cover with a cloth/paper/cardboard sleeve....should get rid of most of the light overspill..... just IMO

Yes. Good advice. The back of my 10g has black paper behind it which should protect the tank from the light. I have also read on other forums of people wrapping it with Mylar.

 

[KrisReef]

That’s a good idea. I have the valves in line but a quick disconnect can allow me to service it somewhere else around minimize the mess. Not sure I will be able to find a quick disconnect for 5/8 “ (outer diameter) (1/2 in inner diameter) vinyl tubing.

I am able to move it and place that container under it (seen in the photo) to do some work. That might do for now.

Thanks.

Use a regular pipe union and find the correct 1/2 tubing adaptors to fit your application.

An example (not exactly what I would use, but what popped up when I searched) I would probably us 1/2" threaded unions, but this is the idea. Links are backwards, love the web right now....

union

Other piece.

 

[Charlie G]

Use a regular pipe union and find the correct 1/2 tubing adaptors to fit your application.

An example (not exactly what I would use, but what popped up when I searched) I would probably us 1/2" threaded unions, but this is the idea. Links are backwards, love the web right now....

union

Other piece.

Great idea. Thanks. So was starting to look it up. The barbed side of the adapter would obviously go to the flexible tubing. The other end into the pipe union. Is that glued with a pvc glue?
Also I would have to repair that for both sides of the union? (I have an AIO Biocube (no sump) so haven’t had to do much with regard to plumbing.

 

[KrisReef]

Great idea. Thanks. So was starting to look it up. The barbed side of the adapter would obviously go to the flexible tubing. The other end into the pipe union. Is that glued with a pvc glue?
Also I would have to repair that for both sides of the union? (I have an AIO Biocube (no sump) so haven’t had to do much with regard to plumbing.

You can use glue or a threaded end that will allow you to unscrew the union if you ever want to replace the union fitting, however you want.

 

[Charlie G]

You can use glue or a threaded end that will allow you to unscrew the union if you ever want to replace the union fitting, however you want.

Got it.

Thank you.