erinmegan85
Well-Known Member
Removing the lid is what's going to help with the heat escaping that's why you wouldn't have any heating issues. Biocubes with lids have been known to have heating issues sometimes.
Biocube lights
- Thread starter QhillCC
- Start date
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Removing the lid is what's going to help with the heat escaping that's why you wouldn't have any heating issues. Biocubes with lids have been known to have heating issues sometimes.
rvamarcel
Active Member
I'm still deciding what to do. I currently have the stock PC lights and want to upgrade to LEDs, but If I'm going to spend over two hundred dollars I might as well get something that with time I can use in a bigger tank (I don't think I'd go bigger than 29... well... maybe 40... lol)
rvamarcel
Active Member
Absolutely agree! Def removing the lid is the way to go, when possible. In my case is a bit difficult, hotwheels and other toys would eventually go scuba diving in it.
As far as upgrading at a later time goes, I also purchased two additional arrays from Nanobox. When I graduate from my Biocube, I'll install these into an ATI Sunpower for the ultimate T5 / LED hybrid!
I had so much more success with my bc29 when I kept the power compacts, pulled all the leds in between and at the back; and installed ecoxotic stunner led strips. I don't think they make those now, but there are many others, and better available now. My experience with led only has not been great, I actually just ordered a new system for my 90g reef, a T5/led hybrid. You can pack enough led strips under the hood while keeping the compacts is a great option. Any concern of heat, open the back, clip on fan, remove the feeding door and cover with black eggcrate and 1/4" screening for jumping fish.
2Shainz
Community Member
I know you said you wanted to keep the lid but I did remove mine and installed the Kessil A80. Between the light, gooseneck, and Kessil controller I'm in $230 on lighting upgrade and some of the best money I've spent on the tank.
It also allowed me to install an Aquamaxx HOB-1 Skimmer. I get a lot more gas exchange with the lid being removed and being able to run a large Skimmer (compared to the Tunze 9001). and my parameters are the best they have ever been.
Next step is to remove the rim in it entirety.
It also allowed me to install an Aquamaxx HOB-1 Skimmer. I get a lot more gas exchange with the lid being removed and being able to run a large Skimmer (compared to the Tunze 9001). and my parameters are the best they have ever been.
Next step is to remove the rim in it entirety.
Scurvy
Pirate Reefer
I have a Steve's kit w/ Bluefish control showing up in the next couple days. Aside from install how do you like the light? Did you go custom or standard full spectrum? I hemmed and hawed for a few weeks on which way to go lighting wise and landed with them.
Scurvy
Pirate Reefer
To clarify a bit what I was looking for, is it easily tunable to find desired color/intensity? I worry I'll get the spectrum out of whack.
rvamarcel
Active Member
I read that some people had success replacing the PC 10k daylight for actinic... I've been trying to find more info, but there's not much online about PC bulbs these days. I also look into any alternative to the coralife PCs, anything that could fit there that would give me better lights, but I haven't found anything concrete. I even thought about going with the actinic and the 50/50 while I get the money to get the AI Prime... at this point, I don't know what to do.
Rjramos
Valuable Member
I went with rapidLED retro kit on my 29 BC cause like you, I wanted to keep the hood. I got the dimmable drivers with the storm controller. I got the solder LED's cause I knew I could put it together, but you still have the option to get the solderless LED's. I also added an additional driver to power just 1 moon phase LED at night. I like the storm controller features like programming sunset/sunrise to your location. And also the night moon phase consistent with whatever phase the moon is outside. I went with 12 blues and 12 white LED's, and believe me set them way down cause they are powerful! The factory fans in your hood now, stay in during installment to cool the Heatsink. The clear lens also goes back on to keep things dry. I've got the BC running for 2 years now. Excellent coral growth and happy fishes!
I was reminiscing today about my 1st reef tank 25 years ago; an 18g cube with power compacts and a canister filter. Frankly I've had more trouble with led only systems than I had with that tank; when a reef that small was unheard of and a canister filter to boot. The 10k compacts is great way to give your corals full spectrum, you will get all the red and yellow you need from those lights without the issues that many get from full spectrum leds. You want more blue, think about adding something like this while keeping the compacts: https://www.21ledusa.com/aquarium_led_reefbar_pro_10in_Blue_Heavy_p/rbpbh10.htm
these are just as an example you can get many strips like this today, some with just straight blue that can fit under the bc29 hood. You just remove the current leds and use something like the 3m double sided tape to mount inside the hood.
rvamarcel
Active Member
This seems to be a great option! Have you used them? What would you put on a 14 Gallon Biocube?
I use the 50/50 on a bc29 as it's only lighting, which is 12k and actinic; it is a fowlr with fake coral. I just ordered a 50/50 for my 90 reef to add to a t5 setup, I'm completely going away from full spectrum led and led as my primary lighting. If you were to keep your compacts these won't fit in between in a bc14, you need to find a strip that is 1" wide. Like I stated above I had better success and less issues when I supplemented my compacts, rather than removing them. But if you wanted to try an led only system you could just remove the bulbs and install these for small investment and minimal work to install. You could use 2 ( i would add the dimmers), that would be 60w which is really overkill in a bc14, but you would want 2 for the coverage. That would still be under a $100. I just used 3m tape on the edges and stuck it to the inside of the light cover, they really don't get hot but that would leave the heatsink on the back open and you could still use your fans in the hood.
