black box mounting concerns

Tropical buff · Mar 15, 2018

So I have been going around as to what light to use over my 25 gal flat back hex and decided right or wrong to go with a black box.
My initial thought was to cut a hole in the top of the canopy and allow the light to sit on top and feed thru this would position the light approximately 8" from the water surface
One of the issues discovered with this plan is that feeding time will be an issue since I have to open the canopy to do so.
Another idea is to place the light under the canopy directly on the plexi cover this way feeding would be easier. this presents another set of issues with the light being this close to the surface at approximately 2" and possible cooling issues although my plan is to run the light at a reduced intensity since I plan on keeping mainly softies and a BTA. I was also planning on removing any optics to optimize light dispersion.
I really do not want to remove the canopy completely since I don't think it will look that nice

suggestions would be greatly appreciated below is an image of the tank with the basic orbit pro currently being used that directly on the tank

Crabs McJones · Mar 15, 2018

If it's the standard black box, brstv did an episode on them and found that in order to not have a direct beam of light you'd have to mount it pretty high. However if you're taking off the lenses you can probably go with the standard mounting height of 8-12 inches and turn the intensities way down

nautical_nathaniel · Mar 15, 2018

How far is the top of your aquascape from the water surface?

Tropical buff · Mar 15, 2018

nautical_nathaniel said:
How far is the top of your aquascape from the water surface?

Will have to double check but estimate would be 10"-12"

chipmunkofdoom2 · Mar 15, 2018

The problem is that some black boxes have straight-up lousy cooling. I have a Galaxyhydro that is just LEDs soldered to a metal plate. Because there's so little surface area, I'd be concerned about running a light like that enclosed in a canopy. It seems that the light relies on lots of air passing over the heatsink (if you can call the thin metal board a heatsink) to keep it cool. Some lights have better cooling though. I also have a Viparspectra that definitely has heatsinks on the metal board. I think SB Reef Lights also has some heatsinks, although I can't say for sure.

It's also worth noting that BTAs require intense light, similar to that required by SPS. You will need to measure PAR to verify how low you can tune the light and still provide adequate light for an anemone. You may not be able to run the light low enough to prevent heat from becoming an issue.

I know you said you don't want to take the canopy off, but that would be my choice.

saltyfilmfolks · Mar 15, 2018

How does the canopy open?
Would a pic be possible ?

I’m assuming the whole top folds back? So the box can’t stay in top?

chipmunkofdoom2 said:
The problem is that some black boxes have straight-up lousy cooling. I have a Galaxyhydro that is just LEDs soldered to a metal plate. Because there's so little surface area, I'd be concerned about running a light like that enclosed in a canopy. It seems that the light relies on lots of air passing over the heatsink (if you can call the thin metal board a heatsink) to keep it cool. Some lights have better cooling though. I also have a Viparspectra that definitely has heatsinks on the metal board. I think SB Reef Lights also has some heatsinks, although I can't say for sure.

It's also worth noting that BTAs require intense light, similar to that required by SPS. You will need to measure PAR to verify how low you can tune the light and still provide adequate light for an anemone. You may not be able to run the light low enough to prevent heat from becoming an issue.

I know you said you don't want to take the canopy off, but that would be my choice.

A fwiw,
I’m seeing BTA at 100-150 par for 10hrs. (Stock biocubes, Marine lands, yea go figure, Marine land led)

BB at 1% (if they hold there lol) at 250par at 12in from the light w stock lenses.

I have 3 bbs on top of my canopy about 7-8 from the water with diffusers. It does get a bit warm in the canopy. I can let you know how much above ambient it is half way through the day.

From the hip, if the light can ne mounted as high as possible IN the canopy as high as possible , holes in the top to let air in (boxes suck air ) and vents to let air out elsewhere.

Tropical buff · Mar 15, 2018

saltyfilmfolks said:
How does the canopy open?
Would a pic be possible ?

I’m assuming the whole top folds back? So the box can’t stay in top?

A fwiw,
I’m seeing BTA at 100-150 par for 10hrs. (Stock biocubes, Marine lands, yea go figure, Marine land led)

BB at 1% (if they hold there lol) at 250par at 12in from the light w stock lenses.

I have 3 bbs on top of my canopy about 7-8 from the water with diffusers. It does get a bit warm in the canopy. I can let you know how much above ambient it is half way through the day.

From the hip, if the light can ne mounted as high as possible IN the canopy as high as possible , holes in the top to let air in (boxes suck air ) and vents to let air out elsewhere.

Yes the top is hinged on the back corners but completely open in the back. there would be no advantage to mounting the light on the backside of the canopy because I would be covering the fans at that point. I may be able to mount a fan to the top of the canopy to assist with air circulation plus there is a ceiling fan in the immediate area that is moving air