Black Molly Fallow Test

jaredrah777

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Hey Guys,

two days ago I picked up two FW Black Mollies to test if my Fallow is complete... Read tons online about the Acclimation and decided to go with the dump method and they are actually doing great... No drip Acclimation, Nothing! from PetSmart straight into my tank with no issues.

Anybody that's done this before have any tips for me? How long do I test for?

I've got them eating pellets and they love it so that's a good sign...
 
Hey Guys,

two days ago I picked up two FW Black Mollies to test if my Fallow is complete... Read tons online about the Acclimation and decided to go with the dump method and they are actually doing great... No drip Acclimation, Nothing! from PetSmart straight into my tank with no issues.

Anybody that's done this before have any tips for me? How long do I test for?

I've got them eating pellets and they love it so that's a good sign...
I had a bad outbreak of Ich, Brook, and also possibly Velvet...went Fallow for 53 days at a water temp of 86 degrees mixing up the sand bed every so often...hoping for the best
 
Hey Guys,

two days ago I picked up two FW Black Mollies to test if my Fallow is complete... Read tons online about the Acclimation and decided to go with the dump method and they are actually doing great... No drip Acclimation, Nothing! from PetSmart straight into my tank with no issues.

Anybody that's done this before have any tips for me? How long do I test for?

I've got them eating pellets and they love it so that's a good sign...
Mollies will eat most anything especially vegetation. Acclimation is literally a must and Ive seen too many times mollies introduced with the "Plop and drop" method to later get sick. Should the fish have any disease of any sort, you just crated an issue not to say this has happened- just the Risk. 10 days with no signs of parasite, itching/scratching should assure tank is ready
Velvet will appear quickly whereas ich will take up to a week to visually see
 
Wow - I'm surprised the mollies made it from fresh to saltwater like that. Even with long acclimation (over days), it is pretty common to lose some of them in the process.

Here is an essay I wrote on the black molly method:

Using black mollies to screen an aquarium for Cryptocaryon

In recent years, a procedure has been promoted that uses marine-adapted freshwater mollies to screen for active Cryptocaryon infections in marine aquariums. The thought is that black mollies that are naïve to marine ectoparasites, will soon develop infections if the disease is present in the aquarium. Being black, these parasites will show up in sharp contrast, making their identification much easier. Mollies have also been suggested to be housed alongside sensitive fish (that cannot be easily medicated) to serve as a “canary in the coal mine” for active disease.

The basic process is to acquire a small group of freshwater black mollies and gradually acclimate them to seawater over a period of 5 to 7 days. They then are added to the previously fallow aquarium, or added to the quarantine tank, and then observed for at least two weeks to see if they develop ectoparasites. If they do, then a treatment needs to be instituted, or the fallow period extended.
As with many aquarium ideas, over-extrapolation can reduce the effectiveness of the original idea. The process is really only suited to screen for Cryptocaryon. Brooklynella may not even infect mollies. Uronema and Amyloodinium can survive salinities as low as 3 ppt so may already be present in “freshwater” mollies that have been raised in brackish fish ponds. Marine and freshwater fish have basically the same internal salinity. Therefore, untreatable internal diseases, such as viruses and Myxozoans could possibly be brought into an aquarium with the mollies.
There is a risk for introducing euryhaline trematodes into an aquarium along with black mollies. Fish farmers, wholesalers and retail dealers all understand that mollies benefit from being housed in brackish water, and so they usually add salt to systems housing mollies in order to reduce mortality under crowded conditions. Euryhaline trematodes take advantage of this, the trouble is that some of these can survive marine conditions and then hyposalinity is ineffective as a treatment for them.
Finally, here have been no scientific studies that indicate this method is actually effective, it is based on sound theory, but needs to be better tested. This process does seem to have benefit in screening for Cryptocaryon, but falls short for other diseases.

Jay
 
I was always lead to believe freshwater mollies will not transfer any marine parasites as both saltwater and freshwater are completely different .
 
I was always lead to believe freshwater mollies will not transfer any marine parasites as both saltwater and freshwater are completely different .

That's not always true, and that is one of the issues that I have with using mollies this way. As I mentioned in my post, sometimes mollies are held in brackish water by the dealers. This allows euryhaline parasites to thrive, possibly infecting your fish. In addition, fresh or salt, fish have basically the same blood salinity, so internal parasites can survive in either water type.

Jay
 
Firstly, I agree that 5 plus days of slow salt increase is the right husbandry
So my concern with adding a Mollie at the end of an extended fallow is what if you still had that residual Cryptocaryon presence, and it infects the mollie, it survives or not, but you have reset the cycle again. No? or am I missing something
Fo me, if I have gone 50 days, I guess I would rater bite the inside of my cheek and go another 20 days. Which I have done.
 
Firstly, I agree that 5 plus days of slow salt increase is the right husbandry
So my concern with adding a Mollie at the end of an extended fallow is what if you still had that residual Cryptocaryon presence, and it infects the mollie, it survives or not, but you have reset the cycle again. No? or am I missing something
Fo me, if I have gone 50 days, I guess I would rater bite the inside of my cheek and go another 20 days. Which I have done.
good point.. i kept my tank no less the 86 degrees some days even 89-90 so i felt it was time especially at the temps i was holding the tank for… jay has a good article on keeping the tank 82 degrees stable and only going 45 days fallow and it being highly. successful
 
UPDATE

so on about the 5th day on one of the mollies i suspected ich i took him out of the water to closely examine and the spots i saw just wiped off when taken out of the water although one dot stuck i was a little worried but after looking today it is gone…they have a cave under some rock they like to hide in when people enter the room so im thinking thats where they squeeze into and got the specs…after that i haven’t seen anything on both mollies… one came in with a rlly bad top fin and it actually looks like he’s growing it back so if anything there pretty healthy!

So do i have the green light?
 
UPDATE

so on about the 5th day on one of the mollies i suspected ich i took him out of the water to closely examine and the spots i saw just wiped off when taken out of the water although one dot stuck i was a little worried but after looking today it is gone…they have a cave under some rock they like to hide in when people enter the room so im thinking thats where they squeeze into and got the specs…after that i haven’t seen anything on both mollies… one came in with a rlly bad top fin and it actually looks like he’s growing it back so if anything there pretty healthy!

So do i have the green light?
I would test with the mollies a minimum of 14 days.
Jay
 

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