Black spot on Lyretail anthias

[Areseebee]

Ok, water is bright yellow now but have both kaniplex and bifuran in now. She's still eating but she's far more listless, I can't tell if it's in part because she's fallen way down the totem pole and the other fish now also boss her around.

 

[melypr1985]

Ok, water is bright yellow now but have both kaniplex and bifuran in now. She's still eating but she's far more listless, I can't tell if it's in part because she's fallen way down the totem pole and the other fish now also boss her around.

The bright yellow is normal for the Furan. The listlessness is possibly because the infection has gotten so much worse. I hope she pulls through for you and hope the others don't pester her and make it worse.

 

[Humblefish]

The LFS only had BiFuran, which appears to be the same active ingredient as Furan 2, can I use that instead?

Yes; also agree with Meredith about it turning the water yellow. This is normal.

 

[Areseebee]

The bright yellow is normal for the Furan. The listlessness is possibly because the infection has gotten so much worse. I hope she pulls through for you and hope the others don't pester her and make it worse.

Yeah I'm really worried about her. She's a little more listless now, she doesn't come out everytime I enter the room. The picking has gotten worse so I put an eggcrate divider up between the three others and her. One of the smaller ones can still get to her side but I hope it will atleast buffer her from the more aggressive ones, even if it means she ends up never being able to coexist with the others I just want to give her the best shot to pull through this. She is still responding to food, but I do notice she seems to be spitting it out mostly. Though I have been feeding them a lot so maybe it's just to much at this point.

 

[Areseebee]

Yes; also agree with Meredith about it turning the water yellow. This is normal.

Is it possible to do an ammonia test in these conditions? I don't know of one that isn't colormetric. Maybe the badge still kind of works because the references are tinged by the water too.

 

[Humblefish]

Is it possible to do an ammonia test in these conditions? I don't know of one that isn't colormetric. Maybe the badge still kind of works because the references are tinged by the water too.

The yellow tint of the water would impact the readings. I would pull the ammonia badge out of the water and shine a flashlight on it to see what it says.

 

[Areseebee]

The yellow tint of the water would impact the readings. I would pull the ammonia badge out of the water and shine a flashlight on it to see what it says.

Ok great. One question about combining Kan and Furan, the Kan I was planning on leaving in for 48 hours, water change, redose. However the Furan packaging says to do a partial or complete WC every 24 hours and redose. What's the best plan here? Should I stick to the 24 hours, ~70% WC and redose both Kan and Furan?

 

[Areseebee]

Ok, I've convinced myself that the common sense answer here is right, the only goal of the redose/wc scheduel on these meds is to keep the dosage the same and they probably all have different lifetimes in solution. Also I'm starting to see some ammonia creep in so I'll do a big water change tonight and redose.

I constructed a divider for the sick anthias and I think it's helping a little. She's a little less skittish now, she still seems weak but atleast she's not getting hammered every time she comes out now.

 

[Humblefish]

Ok great. One question about combining Kan and Furan, the Kan I was planning on leaving in for 48 hours, water change, redose. However the Furan packaging says to do a partial or complete WC every 24 hours and redose. What's the best plan here? Should I stick to the 24 hours, ~70% WC and redose both Kan and Furan?

Most antibiotics only remain active in the water for 24 hrs max, so I would time your dosages of each to ensure the fish is getting 24 hrs exposure time before the next WC.

 

[Areseebee]

Ok great. I'll do the WC and immediately replenish the Kanaplex and the bifuran.

 

[Areseebee]

Well this is still looking really crappy and she's progressively been getting less interested in food and more listless.

 

[Humblefish]

Unfortunately, all you can do is stay the course and hope for the best. I don't see that getting better on its own.

 

[Areseebee]

I moved her to her own tank this morning, even with the barrier the other anthias intimidate and sometimes get through (also want the other three to continue on). Redosed biotics and we will wait.

 

[Humblefish]

@Areseebee That's looking really bad. Can you get acriflavine ex. Acriflavine-MS or Ruby Reef Rally?

I'm just thinking a 90 min bath using that might be useful to halt the progression of the infection. You'll still need antibiotics to finish the job, but they can be slow acting with fish.

More info: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/acriflavine.282887/

 

[Areseebee]

I actually do have acriflavine. Unfortunately I just left for work but I'll do it tonight.

 

[melypr1985]

That looks just aweful. I'm so sorry. I hope the acriflavin bath will help. I agree it's a great idea, I just hope it's in time.

 

[Areseebee]

She's dipping still, I really hope she makes it but I'm very pessimistic. She's not coming out for food anymore. She came back from the dead once for me when I received her from LA with 4 other very dead lyretails, I was sure she was dead the first night but she made a comeback the next morning and appeared completely healthy.

 

[Areseebee]

Unfortunately she didn't make it overnight. Totally bummed!

 

[melypr1985]

Unfortunately she didn't make it overnight. Totally bummed!

Dang. Sorry hun. She was looking really bad, but you tried your best and that's what counts.

 

[Areseebee]

Yeah I feel like I learned a lesson that I should be more aggressive at the first sign. Huge thanks to both you and Humblefish for volunteering your time and knowledge in helping out. I definitely would have been totally lost without all the really prompt input!