Bleach Sterilization for QT and Equipment- Amount vs Time

[Reefahholic]

I know what will get the job done, but thought it would be interesting to come up with an exact amount of bleach to use that will safely sterilize a specific volume of water. I figured we could start with "10 gallons" since that's a very common tank size. This water volume can be used as a reference point for much larger quarantine tanks if needed.

It shouldn't be very hard to get this information with everybody putting their heads together. Here's the reason why I posted this thread. I like to use bleach for two reasons. It's effective and it also cleans the tank and equipment well. It does a fantastic job at removing organic matter.

Here's the only downfall when using bleach. If to much is used for too long...It can start to break down the silicone seams of your QT tank. I've obviously used too much in the past, because I have had several tanks start to develop a slow leak over time.

This is why i'm looking for the most minimal amount to be effective with the shortest duration. We have to be certain we're nuking the tank and equipment or we're merely wasting our time.

Let's figure it out:

Example: tsp, tbsp, cup, etc.. vs sterilization time: 10 mins, 20 mins, 30 mins, 45 mins, 1 hour, etc.

Let me know if you have any suggestions. ;Doctor

 

[scuzy]

I just rinse the tank and air dry it for a day or two. No need for bleach.

 

[Reefahholic]

I just rinse the tank and air dry it for a day or two. No need for bleach.

Yeah, it can be done that way and I used to do it that way. There's definitely nothing wrong with it. Here's a few reasons why I personally like using bleach.

1. I like to have my second tank ready as quickly as possible as I know velvet can go ballistic in a matter of only a few hours. Having a second tank on standby helps avoid dead fish.
2. Like mentioned above, bleach cleans the organic matter in the tanks. I feed as heavy as I can (when I can get sick fish to eat). Air drying isn't an option for me anymore as I like to clearly see into the tank. I like clean glass without haziness. Observing the fish and being able to see them clearly is key.
3. Keeps the pumps and power-heads in good working order.

 

[Reefahholic]

One thing to note:

Bleach should only be used with cold water. Hot water decomposes the sodium hypochlorite.

I personally think 2 tbsp's or 0.125 cups should be enough for 10 gallons. Maybe even 1 tbsp per 10 gallons. I want to be sure. Velvet is likely to survive anything though.

 

[User]

Point #2 can be taken care of by using a scrubby pad during the rinse.

I’ve cleaned QT tanks with hot water and a pad in the past, at the same time as cleaning a new 10g, gone away for the afternoon and had trouble telling which was the new one.

If you’re cleaning it every 2-4 weeks, it shouldn’t have that much build up on it to cause haziness

 

[HotRocks]

I sterilize with 100ppm Bleach. Run for 24 hours and either do a 100% WC or de-chlorinate.

See this Thread:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sodium-thiosulfate.442824/

 

[N2theUnknown]

I sterilize with 100ppm Bleach. Run for 24 hours and either do a 100% WC or de-chlorinate.

See this Thread:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sodium-thiosulfate.442824/

So you keep the tank running just add bleach and then declorinate? I just had a fish die from brook and was thinking about doing this as I didnt see a problem with it but wanted some input and ran across this thread.

 

[User]

I sterilize with 100ppm Bleach. Run for 24 hours and either do a 100% WC or de-chlorinate.

See this Thread:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sodium-thiosulfate.442824/

Remove the filter from the hob first? Or let that sterilize, and use a new cycled filter from the sump once everything is dechlorinated?

 

[HotRocks]

Remove the filter from the hob first? Or let that sterilize, and use a new cycled filter from the sump once everything is dechlorinated?

Sterilize everything. You will have to rebuild biofilter once bleach is removed.

 

[HotRocks]

So you keep the tank running just add bleach and then declorinate? I just had a fish die from brook and was thinking about doing this as I didnt see a problem with it but wanted some input and ran across this thread.

Yes or if it is a small tank then just do a 100% WC.

 

[User]

Sterilize everything. You will have to rebuild biofilter once bleach is removed.

That’s what I do- just wanted clarification for people seeing this method for the first time.

Also- if you don’t have spare filter in your sump for this purpose, you can dump a third of a small bottle of biospira (or similar) over the filter pad while it’s in the dry hob. Fill the filter chamber with enough water to cover the pad. Let sit 30 minutes (I do it while I’m floating the bag to temp acclimate) then turn on the hob 10 minutes before you put the fish in to get the water mixed up. This ‘forces’ a high density of bacteria into the filter, where they attach, before they can be diluted and washed off the filter such as would happen if they were just dumped into the water. Either way works, but ‘loading’ the filter is quicker.

 

[Victoria M]

That’s what I do- just wanted clarification for people seeing this method for the first time.

Also- if you don’t have spare filter in your sump for this purpose, you can dump a third of a small bottle of biospira (or similar) over the filter pad while it’s in the dry hob. Fill the filter chamber with enough water to cover the pad. Let sit 30 minutes (I do it while I’m floating the bag to temp acclimate) then turn on the hob 10 minutes before you put the fish in to get the water mixed up. This ‘forces’ a high density of bacteria into the filter, where they attach, before they can be diluted and washed off the filter such as would happen if they were just dumped into the water. Either way works, but ‘loading’ the filter is quicker.

I got a new filter for my QT. Just love it! It is the Fluval u3. So easy to manage, and I like intank filters for the less salt creep. The Fluval also allowed you to change the return flow from the bottom to the top or up the middle. Super easy to change out filter pads too. It used bio rings which I sterilize, dry and change out with each new QT batch. I soaked the bio rings in Fritz 9 bottled bacteria this last time.

 

[Reefahholic]

So 100ppm to 40/G.... is there a reason why you're using that unit of measurement?

That would be 25ppm to 10 gallons....which would mean....how much bleach?

Can somebody convert the ppm to tsp, tbsp, or cups?

 

[User]

100ppm is the same regardless of volume.

It’s 100 parts of bleach per 999, 900 parts of water. 1 gallon, 36 gallons or 4000 gallons. It’s the same final concentration. 100 ppm.

He picked that unit because it basically standardized the amount of bleach for whatever volume you want to make

 

[HotRocks]

So 100ppm to 40/G.... is there a reason why you're using that unit of measurement?

That would be 25ppm to 10 gallons....which would mean....how much bleach?

Can somebody convert the ppm to tsp, tbsp, or cups?

See this chart for dosing instructions:

http://dec.vermont.gov/sites/dec/files/dwgwp/DW/chlorinedosageemergencydisinfection.pdf

 

[User]

See this chart for dosing instructions:

http://dec.vermont.gov/sites/dec/files/dwgwp/DW/chlorinedosageemergencydisinfection.pdf

I like that

 

[Reefahholic]

See this chart for dosing instructions:

http://dec.vermont.gov/sites/dec/files/dwgwp/DW/chlorinedosageemergencydisinfection.pdf

So it's basically 3 tbsp per 10 gallons if the bleach concentration is 8.25% or 5 tbsp if the concentration is 5.25% and both of these equate to 100ppm.

This is a chart to sterilize drinking water. Could the concentration be higher for different species of bacteria, parasites, or protozoan? What if we're using saltwater and not freshwater?

I may reach out to Randy on this one. I know from working in health care that some things may be harder to kill than others. The time and concentrations could be a little different.

I don't wanna guess. I wanna nuke!

 

[HotRocks]

So it's basically 3 tbsp per 10 gallons if the bleach concentration is 8.25% or 5 tbsp if the concentration is 5.25% and both of these equate to 100ppm.

This is a chart to sterilize drinking water. Could the concentration be higher for different species of bacteria, parasites, or protozoan? What if we're using saltwater and not freshwater?

I may reach out to Randy on this one. I know from working in health care that some things may be harder to kill than others. The time and concentrations could be a little different.

I don't wanna guess. I wanna nuke!

By all means reach out to whomever you please. @Humblefish gave me this link some time ago. I have used the 100ppm ratio on several QTs after nasty gram negative infections etc and never had any issue.

 

[Reefahholic]

By all means reach out to whomever you please. @Humblefish gave me this link some time ago. I have used the 100ppm ratio on several QTs after nasty gram negative infections etc and never had any issue.

If ol' humble gave it to you...and it has been bulletproof thus far...we're probably good to go. I may ask randy if saltwater changes the concentration of bleach like hot water does. I don't know if saltwater actually changes it, but it definitely affects it and I believe it makes it less potent.

 

[User]

Hot water doesn’t affect bleach. It’s best to actually use bleach at the hottest temperature your hands can tolerate.

The heat issue with bleach is storage at elevated temperatures. The decomposition process also takes considerable time. It takes a matter of weeks for the active component to degrade in full strength bleach.

For use, the amount of time that the diluted bleach spends in hot water isn’t going to lead to ineffective sterilization.

100 ppm is more than enough to kill all but the most hardy spore forming organisms. None of which are relevant to our saltwater tanks