Bleached sps from shipping

So this thread started yesterday I am just curious if you lost any of the frags overnight or do they still look the same?
Look the same as to what I posted yesterday. I will post some of current state
 
SPS are corals, just like LPS are corals, but keeping SPS is way more challenging than LPS, despite that they are both 'corals'. There is a lot of misinformation in the hobby. Being a discerning researcher is awesome. There is nothing like true experience, years and years of experience. Some folks here, myself included, do have a lot of years of experience. My earlier comments were purely positive experiences with the vendor in question and some of my knowledge on how a lot of acros can get stressed in shipping. Not all but a good many.

I ran Zeovit for close to 4 years, I know A LOT about the Zeovit system. I found, for me, that the zeo system was less forgiving than my non zeovit system. In my Zeo tank I had decent color, really decent on many SPS, but any fluctuations from temp to any parameter swing(even small) sent corals downhill. I usually could save most but in the end I got tired of living on the edge with the ULNS. It's fiunny, I am dealing with too low of nutrients in my present SPS tank and I have some really pale SPS, many are fine but enough are pale that I know I have to work on increasing nutrients. Having been around a long time, shipping and receiving shipments of SPS, and keeping SPS along with LPS, I know it is really impossible to know what a frag will do over time in various systems. Some will color up exactly the same, others will morph. Some frags will die back to a nub and then rebound. Some frags STN over a month, some RTN a week later. In the end I reserve judgement until I see the coral as a small mini colony, then I am either super happy or maybe disappointed. I really hope things turn out well for your frags. If your tank is stable and your params are in line all of those frags should do quite well. Take care and keep us posted for sure.
Well said. Basically said exactly what I thought and touched on exactly what I have read. No yes experience is the best. I can't give much yet but at least some knowledge to start and obviously we all will have difference experiences. And I never ran zeovit but I did run an ULNS with pellet and dosing microbacter7. And I too let all that go as I don't like having to many unnecessary equipment and more to maintain. And yes biggest reason letting it go was how easy a crash can happen. Maintaing low alk and all. And color will morph under different lighting and parameter. I actually have an Oregon mummy eye that looks like an Green monster chalice. Morphed in my tank. Seller have t5 as well did I. Now I don't really expect to look like pictured per say. Very close. Now I expect to get as pictured and morph to what ever they like but time will tell. I will make a less rude post on that in the future
 
Sps frag pack $450 lol

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What are your params? Lighting, etc?

LPS and SPS are definitely different, but I personally wouldve been a little upset with getting corals like that too. I have ordered multiple times from Cali, I live in PA and they came shipped good. Yeah they didnt have as good as color as I am sure they had before they shipped but they still had good color. Did not look as dull as the ones you got so I understand why you're frustrated. Definitely a hard thing as I am sure the seller couldn't have done anything different either and he sells tons and tons of frags so if he constantly sold frags like that and packs like that, I am sure everyone by now wouldnt be buying them.

But back to my original question. What are your params, lighting and equipment to keep stable params for SPS?
 
Just out of curiosity how long did you acclimate and how did you? I killed my share before speeding up my acclimation time and method.
 
Temp 78 cal 440 alk 10 po3 10 p04 .03 - .1 ph 8 Parameter are always kept in check. I acclimated them about 15-25min until temp was up. I didn't dip as I saw they were stress already. They look as pictured once they were dropped. Wasn't an 1hr later just second so I knew they were bad. Some were showing pylop extension right away and as you se other are I would image close to death. Now I know I can't make them all happy but it's def not my parameter. They came in so beat that I'm sure that why there not responding well vs the others
 
levels are pretty good but I am sure his alk was more closer to 8 and possibly lower since he is running a zeo system so the acros probably took a hit with that alk jump up to 10, that is something to think about. Most successful SPS are kept around 8 + or - 0.5 on either side.

What are your lights and flow?
 
levels are pretty good but I am sure his alk was more closer to 8 and possibly lower since he is running a zeo system so the acros probably took a hit with that alk jump up to 10, that is something to think about. Most successful SPS are kept around 8 + or - 0.5 on either side.

What are your lights and flow?
I'm sure they can stress from the jump. But to keep sps happy alk isn't a issue. He is at 7dkh and along with others who carbon dosing like he is they try to maintain lower alk so sps tips aren't burned. I don't dose anything just skim and water change. And it's believed that lower alk help with color because sps grow slower and that help color up. Yet another theory not tested. Light is radion and flow is mp10.
 
I'm sure they can stress from the jump. But to keep sps happy alk isn't a issue. He is at 7dkh and along with others who carbon dosing like he is they try to maintain lower alk so sps tips aren't burned. I don't dose anything just skim and water change. And it's believed that lower alk help with color because sps grow slower and that help color up. Yet another theory not tested. Light is radion and flow is mp10.

Alright just letting you know that an alk jump from 7 to 10 will probably kill most of those corals, I went from 8 to 10 when I was on vacation and I lost 50-75% of corals and saw losses for over 3 weeks. If you don't believe me, just ask any other person who has successful kept SPS for years. I am just trying to give you some suggestions on what to possibly do to help your situation. Also how big is your tank, one mp10 is not a lot of flow at all.

I have 2 gyre 150s, 2 jabeos 15s in my 180 pushing around 18,000 gph not including my return.

Also if you could show me a full out grown tank that is ran with alk at 10-11, I would love to see it. Alk is probably the most important health of SPS, why keep it so much above from the actual ocean where these thrive at 7-8 alk?
 
Alright just letting you know that an alk jump from 7 to 10 will probably kill most of those corals, I went from 8 to 10 when I was on vacation and I lost 50-75% of corals and saw losses for over 3 weeks. If you don't believe me, just ask any other person who has successful kept SPS for years. I am just trying to give you some suggestions on what to possibly do to help your situation. Also how big is your tank, one mp10 is not a lot of flow at all.

I have 2 gyre 150s, 2 jabeos 15s in my 180 pushing around 18,000 gph not including my return.

Also if you could show me a full out grown tank that is ran with alk at 10-11, I would love to see it.
No I understand the swing can cause the coral to die. Now it's worst when the swing happens in tank. That mean something went very wrong vs swing from bag to tank. Anyway yes frag tank is 17w by 20d by 10 high. Mp10 flow in its direction. I know your trying to help and I don't have many info up on my setup. But all the (noob) mistake or lack of equipment or how to can be dismissed. Ive been adding all said equipment to run a sps little frag tank
 
Here some awful photoshop pics. And as you see I'm a diy kinda guy. All self taught. Also work on car, ac and DC Equipment, wood working, glazing, masonry. Little of everything

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Wired up an aquatic life timer from an old unit to my coralife luner 4bulb t5. Next project is to build a 6 bulb t5. Already have the ballast and the timer with relay. Just waiting on euroquatic to release their new ex5 bulb that's a bit more sturdier minus the diffuser

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All corals get their color from the zoothanzalae inside their cell. That's why when they stress and release their zoothanzalae they look white. Some corals will stress out more than others, so regarding shipping it will vary from place to place. May be your friend is closer to the shipper therefore their coral look less stress. A $300 WD frag will look like yours when it's stress out so unless it's completely white out no flesh then it is what it is.
 
SPS are very sensitive. Shipping causes stress. New tank with different parameters from previous tank causes stress. An ALK jump from 7 to 10 is very stressful in my opinion. That is a significant increase. Imagine the temperature, oxygen, or humidity levels of the room you are in change by 42% . You would notice and be stressed.
 
I would say that he shouldn't have to worry about the alk from the previous tank. His tank has higher nutrients which will support the coral enough to pull through if everything else is in line. If he had the same zeovit system they were grown in by the owner and had an alk of 10, then there would be issues. Frags going from tank to tank don't really stress from changes in parameters in my experience, maybe salinity if anything.
I wonder how much zeospur2 the owner used honestly, and if using it prior to shipping is causing the acros to not ship well. If the zoox is already low shipping and cold temps is going to cause a quick downfall in coral health. I do think he should be using two heat packs as well. I had three or so corals die and never ordered again to get my money out of the doas. I would like to but it's not in my price range anymore.
 
From my understanding they didn't look colorful or "healthy" when they arrived in the box, so the primary issue being that they arrived looking way different then what was expected. The systems being ran differently has no baring on that.
 

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