hey guys I noticed my two angels had cloudy eyes and the queen has cloudy torn fin, so I removed them from 150 dt and put them in 30 qt been treating them with maracyn for two days n this morning they wouldn't eat and gills are moving rapidly parameters of dt are all zero ph 8.2 salinity is 021 temp 79 alk is 12 which I think is perfect and levels are the same in my qt can anyone help with this ? The Angels are both about 4 inches I know qt is small for them but was only planning on 1 wk in there.
Blue face and queen in trouble
- Thread starter mattyt312
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melypr1985
totally addicted
You lost me a little in the middle of your post. You have two angels that have cloudy eyes and torn fins right? Is it both eyes on both fish? Do any other fish have these symptoms as well? The numbers are the stats for your DT right? Which fish arn't eating now? how long have you had them?
melypr1985
totally addicted
If you QT was cloudy that is usually a bacterial bloom or some kind of reaction between meds. Increase bubbles or water movement to give more oxygen in the water. The cloudiness will often suck the oxygen right out of the water. With a little more info (see my post above) and a picture or two I can help you better.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Yes it's an infection in the eye with a little fin rot thrown in. These are usually the result of secondary infection caused by a parasite infestation like ich, or flukes. I'd be curious as to any other symptoms and the results of a FW dip. For the infections- kanaplex or furan 2 are good antibiotics to run for 10 days straight.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Here's how to do the FW dip if your interested in ruling out/in Flukes as the main cause:
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Normally qt all for at least a week I know that is kinda on short end but 2 wks ago tried to introduce a emperor with out qt bc qt wasn't set up and it was a impulse buy but blue face wouldn't leave him alone so after 2 hrs I had to put after him in my 75 with my two blue throat trigs and they are doing well had blue face for 3 months and queen for two month quarentined both of them for a wk before they went in dt
Is maracyn any good for flukes ? Gonna try the ro dip and see what happens. Come to think of it just last week I wanted to give the fish in dt a treat so I gave them feeder shrimp for first time. I pulled them out of the FS bag one by one and just dropped them in. Do you think maybe that might have something to do with this?
melypr1985
totally addicted
You'll need Prazipro for the flukes- if any show up in the FW dip. I doubt the feeder shrimp had anything to do with it. They shouldn't bring any parasites in with them, because typically they are kept in a tank all their own and no fish (cause you know, the fish would eat them and all).
melypr1985
totally addicted
a 1 week QT with no treatment isn't going to keep much out of your display. You'll probably find at least one parasite in there causing the secondary infections.
melypr1985
totally addicted
It's two doses of prazi 5 to 7 days apart with a water change in between. Follow the directions for the dosage amount though. Good luck!
What I would do kana plex with focus binds medications together one day then next day metro plex with focus I would do it on opposite days for 10 days I learned this from seachem because there's a lot of diseases and parasites out there and you don't know what your actually treating to rotate them and it should nip it in the butt
melypr1985
totally addicted
Putting them in a QT and medicating the water is better for the outward problems like an infected eye. I would use the kanaplex for that- no Focus required and it tends to work better/faster with it in the water.
