Hello, this is my first post, first day at this whole app thing so I hope I get feedback..... But I have a blue jaw trigger and he has a couple spots of ich, I had two eels in my tank and they got in a huge fight and freaked the trigger out, the next day I instantly saw ich on the trigger. Next day I got rid of one of the eels, the newest one, and he seems to be calmer. I've been using the instant ocean all in one marine remedy tablets. I've been treating the tank the past 5 days, due to previous fish having ich...do I keep treating? Or try something else? Will it go away on its own? How long? Still learning about this hobby.
Blue jaw trigger has ich
- Thread starter aqualov3r
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@aqualov3r Just so we're on the same page, is this the product you are using? http://www.amazon.com/LIFEGUARD-REMEDY-TABLET-MEDICATIONS-OCEAN-AQUARIUM/dp/B007PGFT4O
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I had a porcupine puffer which got ich really bad, started to treat the tank with the tablets but he didn't make it, the trigger was fine at that point. Then the fight between the eels happened a few days ago n saw the trigger the next morning with ich (he's very shy and gets easily frightened) I kept treating the tank for the five days it recommends to do n haven't seen any improvement or more ich spots so I did another day of treatment but now I'm not sure if I should wait it out for a couple days or try something else cuz I've heard of the copper treatment but heard it's not safe for eels... I hav the trigger, snowflake eel and a lunar wrasse in a 55g
I've never used it. And the only info I can find is that it contains something called "HaloShield" as the magic ingredient.
I suggest you start by reading this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-treat-ich.191226/
This contains even more detailed info: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/understanding-ich.188770/
Also this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
redfishbluefish
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There are three ways to treat marine ich.
1. Foo Foo Pseudo Medications. There are many cure-all medications that claim to cure marine ich. They don't work. Might aleviate the symptoms, but it's still there.
2. Hyposalinity. Run your DT with hypo salinity. Issue here is that inverts don't survive this treatment, so they need to be removed. The other option is to remove the fish to a hospital tank and run that tank hypo while the DT sits fallow for eight weeks.
3. Remove fish to a hospital tank and treat with copper. Run the DT fallow for eight weeks.
1. Foo Foo Pseudo Medications. There are many cure-all medications that claim to cure marine ich. They don't work. Might aleviate the symptoms, but it's still there.
2. Hyposalinity. Run your DT with hypo salinity. Issue here is that inverts don't survive this treatment, so they need to be removed. The other option is to remove the fish to a hospital tank and run that tank hypo while the DT sits fallow for eight weeks.
3. Remove fish to a hospital tank and treat with copper. Run the DT fallow for eight weeks.
redfishbluefish
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I would suggest you google the details. You slowly drop the salinity to 1.010 (I think), and hold there for an extended period, and then slowly raise it back up.
Hyposalinity: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) only.
How To Treat - Place the fish you wish to treat in a quarantine tank with SG & temperature matching the tank they came from. Over a period of 48 hours, gradually lower the SG down to 1.009. You must use a perfectly calibrated refractometer at all times while doing hypo. Treat for 30 consecutive days, and during that time the SG must always remain at 1.009. If it inches up even slightly, the 30 day clock restarts. For this reason, many people use an auto top off system while performing hyposalinity. Some have even used hypo to successfully rid their display tank of ich, while others have failed. All corals and inverts must be removed beforehand if you wish to try this.
One of the challenges posed by hypo is maintaining a proper pH for the entire duration. While fish aren’t overly sensitive to low pH for short periods of time, anything continuously lower than 7.5 is going to be a problem. So, you will have to constantly test and then buffer the water to raise the pH. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off water and carbon dioxide from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH buffer. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.
Pros - Chemical free solution to ich, gentle on the fish.
Cons/Side Effects - Difficult to execute properly, and hypo resistant strains of ich have been proven to exist (study done by Yambot in 2003.)
How To Treat - Place the fish you wish to treat in a quarantine tank with SG & temperature matching the tank they came from. Over a period of 48 hours, gradually lower the SG down to 1.009. You must use a perfectly calibrated refractometer at all times while doing hypo. Treat for 30 consecutive days, and during that time the SG must always remain at 1.009. If it inches up even slightly, the 30 day clock restarts. For this reason, many people use an auto top off system while performing hyposalinity. Some have even used hypo to successfully rid their display tank of ich, while others have failed. All corals and inverts must be removed beforehand if you wish to try this.
One of the challenges posed by hypo is maintaining a proper pH for the entire duration. While fish aren’t overly sensitive to low pH for short periods of time, anything continuously lower than 7.5 is going to be a problem. So, you will have to constantly test and then buffer the water to raise the pH. This can be accomplished by using supplements (available at most LFS) or you can “bake” your own DIY supplement by using baking soda. Spread baking soda onto a clean baking sheet, and bake at 300F for 1 hour. This process drives off water and carbon dioxide from the baking soda, and the result is an effective pH buffer. You will need to experiment (start with a very small amount) to determine how much is needed to raise your pH to the desired level.
Pros - Chemical free solution to ich, gentle on the fish.
Cons/Side Effects - Difficult to execute properly, and hypo resistant strains of ich have been proven to exist (study done by Yambot in 2003.)
Thank u for all the feedback and suggestions 
I'm still new at this and still learning... I hope the trigger clears up soon but if not, I'll strongly consider this method, all these different types of treatments just seem scary n way over my head 
I'm still new at this and still learning... I hope the trigger clears up soon but if not, I'll strongly consider this method, all these different types of treatments just seem scary n way over my head 
NeuroticAquatics
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Be sure to read up on Ich. It drops off as part of it 's life cycle. That is almost certainly why it "cleared up on it's own". Copper or hypo kill it, nothing else. It is still in the tank and will be back.
^^This. SW ich actually spends more time encysted upon rocks/substrate than it does feeding on your fish. After 3-7 days (dependent upon strain), it drops off the fish which is why many mistakenly believe ich clears up on it's own. After dropping off, it encysts (as mentioned above) preparing to release more free swimmers into the water to seek out fish to infect again. So long as fish are present, ich continues this cycle for almost 4 years (on average). If another fish is introduced with ich, the new strain restarts the 4 year clock.
Ya it's starting to show up again on him. I was really considering to use copper because I'm getting sick ...of the ich no pun intended.... But if I was to use it, is there a certain or recommended brand out there? And it wouldn't hurt my eel? I love this app because you can see people's opinions on different topics....my local store told me that I should be careful when using copper and pay close attention to my eel specifically because it's a little harsh on the fish as far as treatment but it would fix the problem.
no pun intended.... But if I was to use it, is there a certain or recommended brand out there? And it wouldn't hurt my eel? I love this app because you can see people's opinions on different topics....my local store told me that I should be careful when using copper and pay close attention to my eel specifically because it's a little harsh on the fish as far as treatment but it would fix the problem.Ya it's starting to show up again on him. I was really considering to use copper because I'm getting sick ...of the ich
I wouldn't use copper on an eel. They are a known copper sensitive species and their mucus coat can be easily damaged.
Adding the eel into the equation, you can still treat in a QT with Chloroquine phosphate, tank transfer method or hyposalinity: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/treatment-options-102.189658/
The thing is though, I don't have a QT
Rid Ich contains formalin & malachite green; two chemicals you DON'T want to use in a reef or in the presence of inverts. That combination might provide temporary relief for ich, but it will not completely eradicate it.
Another option for you to consider until you get a QT: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
Thank you for the guide Humble, that thread definitely helped me better understand how the QT should be looked at and how not expensive it could be.... I'm actually going to my fish store today so I will see what tanks they have to get this QT ball rolling, I will definitely keep you posted with pics and questions! 
