Blue Tang and QT

[Marcus Justus]

Hello guys.. i just got my QT set up today and in a month or so after my QT cycles im planning on getting a Hippo Tang. and i just dont wanna put him in my display tank and risk getting my other fish sick. so my question is whats the best meds to use if the tang gets ich or any other kinds of disease? and also do i just need a fliter in my QT and heater and powerhead i also have some PVC pipe in there for him to hide

 

[Big G]

Hello guys.. i just got my QT set up today and in a month or so after my QT cycles im planning on getting a Hippo Tang. and i just dont wanna put him in my display tank and risk getting my other fish sick. so my question is whats the best meds to use if the tang gets ich or any other kinds of disease? and also do i just need a fliter in my QT and heater and powerhead i also have some PVC pipe in there for him to hide

I like General Cure and Cupramine for prophylactic treatment of all incoming fish.

 

[mcarroll]

@Marcus Justus If you're buying locally, and aren't brining home sick fish, then the QT should be as close to a display tank as you can manage...the purpose is only to pass time and allow for observation while you rebuild his immune system. This is the cure for whatever ails him.

As long as he's not:

• stressed out in QT by too small of a tank (this is often the hardest)
• stressed out in QT by it being too barren of an atmosphere (PVC pipes)
• stressed out in QT by being fed only flake, pellet or processed, purified frozen foods (more live or at least pro-biotic; more whole-frozen/whole-refrigerated)

...then there's no reason that his time in QT should be anything other than pleasant for both of you.

BUT....if he's in a little 10 gallon tank, with PVC pipes and fed flake food.....you're going to need a medicine chest to keep him alive.

If he makes it through a QT like that, then it would probably no different after he migrates into the display if that isn't a low stress environment. (Put him into a 48" or smaller tank, for example.) The problem is that you have few or no medical supports you can use in a display.....so low stress should be a high priority in the display too.

Low population numbers and high-quality feed can be some of your most powerful fish-keeping tools – especially at the beginning.

 

[Marcus Justus]

ok awesome!! i already have the Cupramine on hand.. but everyone has told me its bad to use saying it will cause an ammonia spike and kill my fish and also when i dose how much do i accually put? people has also told me to just do half the dose that the bottle recommends...... please help lol

 

[Marcus Justus]

@Marcus Justus If you're buying locally, and aren't brining home sick fish, then the QT should be as close to a display tank as you can manage...the purpose is only to pass time and allow for observation while you rebuild his immune system. This is the cure for whatever ails him.

As long as he's not:

• stressed out in QT by too small of a tank (this is often the hardest)
• stressed out in QT by it being too barren of an atmosphere (PVC pipes)
• stressed out in QT by being fed only flake, pellet or processed, purified frozen foods (more live or at least pro-biotic; more whole-frozen/whole-refrigerated)

...then there's no reason that his time in QT should be anything other than pleasant for both of you.

BUT....if he's in a little 10 gallon tank, with PVC pipes and fed flake food.....you're going to need a medicine chest to keep him alive.

If he makes it through a QT like that, then it would probably no different after he migrates into the display if that isn't a low stress environment. (Put him into a 48" or smaller tank, for example.) The problem is that you have few or no medical supports you can use in a display.....so low stress should be a high priority in the display too.

Low population numbers and high-quality feed can be some of your most powerful fish-keeping tools – especially at the beginning.

ok my QT is 40 gallons which is 3 feet long i have the fliter, heater , PVC pipes and a fliter sponge also in there.. does this sound ok?

 

[Marcus Justus]

@Marcus Justus If you're buying locally, and aren't brining home sick fish, then the QT should be as close to a display tank as you can manage...the purpose is only to pass time and allow for observation while you rebuild his immune system. This is the cure for whatever ails him.

As long as he's not:

• stressed out in QT by too small of a tank (this is often the hardest)
• stressed out in QT by it being too barren of an atmosphere (PVC pipes)
• stressed out in QT by being fed only flake, pellet or processed, purified frozen foods (more live or at least pro-biotic; more whole-frozen/whole-refrigerated)

...then there's no reason that his time in QT should be anything other than pleasant for both of you.

BUT....if he's in a little 10 gallon tank, with PVC pipes and fed flake food.....you're going to need a medicine chest to keep him alive.

If he makes it through a QT like that, then it would probably no different after he migrates into the display if that isn't a low stress environment. (Put him into a 48" or smaller tank, for example.) The problem is that you have few or no medical supports you can use in a display.....so low stress should be a high priority in the display too.

Low population numbers and high-quality feed can be some of your most powerful fish-keeping tools – especially at the beginning.

also my Display is 125 gallon with a pair of clowns a lawnmower blenny and a yellow tang... im also worried about the yellow tang picking on him

 

[mcarroll]

Assuming you're getting a small juvenile a 40B should be perfect.

For setup, think more like FOWLR than like prison. At least some live rock....at least some fake green plants for naturalistic cover. Doesn't have to be fancy at all, but it should be as complete as possible....it matters.

If you really think medicating will be necessary, that doesn't sound like an ideal purchase – what I would do is wait until different stock comes in that you feel better about bringing home. Patience.

But if you can't wait, or if you're ordering liverstock sight-unseen ;Nailbiting;Inpain then maybe you need to have a different plan that could include prophylactic medication. (Consider @Paul B's experience on these matters – a healthy, mature tank is curative in its own right.)

In that case, you'll want a separate Hospital Tank that can be used to dose medications and which will only be used for short-term housing. It can be a 10 or 20 gallon tank outfitted "prison style".

Ideally for bio-security, both of these tanks (QT and Hospital) would be located remotely from the display tank and each tank (display, QT and Hospital) would have a totally separate set of hardware associated for handling. Separate hardware is much more important if that's all you can muster.

 

[mcarroll]

also my Display is 125 gallon with a pair of clowns a lawnmower blenny and a yellow tang... im also worried about the yellow tang picking on him

That's definitely not too bad!!!

I'd think about off-loading the lawnmower blenny to allow for more grazing opportunities to your tangs, BTW. Make up any difference with snails...smaller is better for snails, generally speaking.

Forget about keeping a low nutrient system too, in case that's on your radar. The algae that will grow under such a system won't be appealing to them and it will be a PITA for you in other ways too.

The algae that grows when nutrients are higher is easier to deal with – primarily because grazers will find it much more palatable!

Also avoid nutrient spikes like from adding a bunch of livestock at once, or doubling your feeding rate for some reason....that's how you generate algae blooms. Keep nutrient levels as consistent as possibly and make changes small.

 

[Marcus Justus]

ok awesome thank you so much... and as for where im getting the blue tang from im ordering online from liveaquara or saltwaterfish.com im not sure yet.. i dont have a local LFS i really wish i did so i could just pick one out that looks really heathy

 

[Marcus Justus]

That's definitely not too bad!!!

I'd think about off-loading the lawnmower blenny to allow for more grazing opportunities to your tangs, BTW. Make up any difference with snails...smaller is better for snails, generally speaking.

Forget about keeping a low nutrient system too, in case that's on your radar. The algae that will grow under such a system won't be appealing to them and it will be a PITA for you in other ways too.

The algae that grows when nutrients are higher is easier to deal with – primarily because grazers will find it much more palatable!

Also avoid nutrient spikes like from adding a bunch of livestock at once, or doubling your feeding rate for some reason....that's how you generate algae blooms. Keep nutrient levels as consistent as possibly and make changes small.

ok awesome thank you so much... and as for where im getting the blue tang from im ordering online from liveaquara or saltwaterfish.com im not sure yet.. i dont have a local LFS i really wish i did so i could just pick one out that looks really heathy

 

[mcarroll]

Best of luck then! Just keep in mind they're extra-extra stressed compared to a LFS fish you'd come home with in a bag.

Be prepared for anything when you open the box, and (as long as everyting is OK) be prepared to instantly start spoiling the heck out of them.

Try to have some form of live food in store for them at least sometime during the day, every day if at all possible....hatching and feeding them newly born brine shrimp is easy, for example. And you can get instant baby brine shrimp in a jar from Ocean Nutrition to try baby brine out before investing the few bucks needed into a brine shrimp hatching operation. Blackworms are another popular, not too difficult option.

Unfortunately my "LFS" is around an hour away these days....but I'd still probably make the roadtrip if I was in the market for fish.

 

[Big G]

ok awesome!! i already have the Cupramine on hand.. but everyone has told me its bad to use saying it will cause an ammonia spike and kill my fish and also when i dose how much do i accually put? people has also told me to just do half the dose that the bottle recommends...... please help lol

This links below will help for Cupramine and General Cure.

You also need the Seachem Copper test kit to check the copper level when using Cupramine.

Highly suggest getting one of those Ammonia badges that go on your tank so you can keep an eye on the ammonia level throughout qt.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dosing-cupramine.296117/#post-3620466
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/api-general-cure.195229/#post-2236352

 

[Big G]

ok awesome thank you so much... and as for where im getting the blue tang from im ordering online from liveaquara or saltwaterfish.com im not sure yet.. i dont have a local LFS i really wish i did so i could just pick one out that looks really heathy

Blue Zoo Aquatics. Quality online fish.