Bought used tank, bad shape!! HELP!!

[jquary1030]

New to reefing, I bought a used 75 g tank due to price constraints of new tank and hope to rehab back to life. Picture did not do the algae problem justice. Glass was covered and every piece of rock was covered in green hair algae. Got it home cleaned everything including pumps, sump, skimmer, power heads and any thing the we could stick a brush in. Once clean we sifted water to remove large clumps of algae and other debris, added new sand.

Have had the tank for a little over two weeks now and the phosphate are below 0.01 but the nitrate are at 160 ppm and don’t seem to be coming down. I have been doing medium water changes, about 12 gallon 3 times a week. Setup on the tank is an HOB skimmer ( I know, isn’t great) HOB overflow to a 10 gallon sump with 1 sock, a sock of activated carbon in the middle chamber of the sump and a piece of live rock as well. Lights are set to acclimation at 50%.

live stock in the tank is one clown, a blue-green chromis, dwarf hawk fish, and a dwarf Pygmy angle. Also a couple snail and 2 urchins. Coral include 1 mushroom and a

Hair algae is still trying to grow and some signs of what looks like cyano are staring to appear.

What is there to do about the high nitrates and potential cyano?

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

So you purchased a used system lock stock and barrel, live sand live rock and fish and stuff is that correct?
Did you re use the sand?

 

[jquary1030]

So you purchased a used system lock stock and barrel, live sand live rock and fish and stuff is that correct?
Did you re use the sand?

No, new sand before reintroducing the rock and fish.

 

[fishguy242]

hi ,welcome to the reef
nitrate absorbing pad , seachem denitrate in reactor or mesh sack in high flow area in sump
what test are you using for po4 ?

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

Good that you did not re use the sand, how long was the rock out of the water?
It sounds like you are going to through a nitrate cycle. I would get a large container and put new SW in there and take out your live animals and let the tank go through the process.

 

[pandaparties]

Most effective way of removing nitrates is through water changes. Phosphates are a little trickier due to being bound up in media. I'd guess your phosphates are higher than .01 but are being rapidly consumed by algae.

If the nitrates are rocketing back up (check after water changé vs a few days after water change) then you have a nutrient export problem and need to consider ways of more export (skimmer, scrubber, AWC, etc) or ways of reduced import (less feeding, reduced bioload etc)

 

[xmjxflipx]

Also possible the algae u scrubbed off might have had some nutrients and die off that wasn't removed when u brushed it off or rinsed well ...algae especially hair algae hold alot of nutrients in them when they die or are released in the system again

 

[jquary1030]

hi ,welcome to the reef
nitrate absorbing pad , seachem denitrate in reactor or mesh sack in high flow area in sump
what test are you using for po4?

Using API Reef Master test kit.

 

[jquary1030]

Good that you did not re use the sand, how long was the rock out of the water?
It sounds like you are going to through a nitrate cycle. I would get a large container and put new SW in there and take out your live animals and let the tank go through the process.

No long, it was transported in water and during filling I made sure to keep it wet.

 

[jquary1030]

Most effective way of removing nitrates is through water changes. Phosphates are a little trickier due to being bound up in media. I'd guess your phosphates are higher than .01 but are being rapidly consumed by algae.

If the nitrates are rocketing back up (check after water changé vs a few days after water change) then you have a nutrient export problem and need to consider ways of more export (skimmer, scrubber, AWC, etc) or ways of reduced import (less feeding, reduced bioload etc)

I have cut back on the feeding, noticed a lot of waste on the sand and have been trying to siphon it out at every water change. Thinking that maybe more frequent 20% water changes might help.

 

[fishguy242]

nitrate absorbing pad , seachem denitrate in reactor or mesh sack in high flow area in sump

either or both will help tremendously .
pad ,quicker
denitrate ,slower but steady helper...

 

[jquary1030]

Also possible the algae u scrubbed off might have had some nutrients and die off that wasn't removed when u brushed it off or rinsed well ...algae especially hair algae hold alot of nutrients in them when they die or are released in the system again

That is good to know. Have been trying to pluck any large amounts of hair algae and remove it from the tank. Also, lots of rock has dried since we didn't re-use it. I was planning on bleach curing and cycling those before putting them back and then do the same to the rocks that are currently in the tank. Good or bad idea?

 

[Lowell Lemon]

That is good to know. Have been trying to pluck any large amounts of hair algae and remove it from the tank. Also, lots of rock has dried since we didn't re-use it. I was planning on bleach curing and cycling those before putting them back and then do the same to the rocks that are currently in the tank. Good or bad idea?

You could just put it in a dark tank with heat and a good pump to provide circulation. Add some phosphate removal products and keep the rock alive. Bleaching the rock defeats the purpose of live rock. Now if this is man made rock bleach away cause it is not really live rock no matter how old it is! If it is man-made rock it is very likely the source of your high phosphate.

 

[vetteguy53081]

New to reefing, I bought a used 75 g tank due to price constraints of new tank and hope to rehab back to life. Picture did not do the algae problem justice. Glass was covered and every piece of rock was covered in green hair algae. Got it home cleaned everything including pumps, sump, skimmer, power heads and any thing the we could stick a brush in. Once clean we sifted water to remove large clumps of algae and other debris, added new sand.

Have had the tank for a little over two weeks now and the phosphate are below 0.01 but the nitrate are at 160 ppm and don’t seem to be coming down. I have been doing medium water changes, about 12 gallon 3 times a week. Setup on the tank is an HOB skimmer ( I know, isn’t great) HOB overflow to a 10 gallon sump with 1 sock, a sock of activated carbon in the middle chamber of the sump and a piece of live rock as well. Lights are set to acclimation at 50%.

live stock in the tank is one clown, a blue-green chromis, dwarf hawk fish, and a dwarf Pygmy angle. Also a couple snail and 2 urchins. Coral include 1 mushroom and a

Hair algae is still trying to grow and some signs of what looks like cyano are staring to appear.

What is there to do about the high nitrates and potential cyano?

Good flow and moderate light will deter cyano buildup as well as utilizing a protein skimmer to remove inorganics and even nitrates. Im not keen on absorbent pads which if not pulled at right time can release these sources back intto tank.
How to resist cyano- Do not chase nitrate and phos levels. Assure your test kits are offering accurate results/ranges.
What test kits are you using ?

Causes of Cyano and some algaes are:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

 

[benbalter]

One thing I never saw come up was a UV filter. It really helped me get my alge under control. Are you using RODI DI water?

 

[jquary1030]

One thing I never saw come up was a UV filter. It really helped me get my alge under control. Are you using RODI DI water?

I have been looking into an in-line UV filter. I am using RO water, also looking into an RO/DI filter for the house since the local reef store is 45 minutes away my schedule does not line up with their hours of operation.

 

[benbalter]

I have been looking into an in-line UV filter. I am using RO water, also looking into an RO/DI filter for the house since the local reef store is 45 minutes away my schedule does not line up with their hours of operation.

OK for the record DI takes the phosphate out of the water. Which is great for our pipes bad for fish tanks! Remember RODI only make 25 to 50 gallons of water in 24 hours. You can run a reactor with color changing resin in the tank. The UV take a lot longer to work but for along them fix its better in my experience