Did you see where the post (with someone who had one like yours I think) mentioned that lowering his temp to 75-76 helped it? Seemed like DKh is pretty important too (NSW is about 8) and low flow is important as well. That was actually a really informative read, just piecing together what everyone said. Wouldn’t want to keep one tho! Low flow, low light, low temp, high nutrients...you would almost be forced to give it its own personal tank!
There are a bunch of posts where you can get tidbits and piece them together as you mentioned, the issue is there’s nothing definitive like there is for monticap digitatas for example.
The other issue is people have two types of wilsonis that require very different care, similar to the difference in Indonesian and Australian gonis.
The very broad guidelines seem to be very carb/amino acid levels, low tank temps (74-76), low par (this one is mixed and a few with cold water Wilson’s have success at higher par), more importantly higher blue spectrum to white, and low flow.
I haven given this to him, at least I feel like I have. The only consideration is previously a lot of the high flow at the top of my frag tank got to him, potential alk swings from high to very high in the little frag tank from water changes, or phosphates bottoming out.
It’s too difficult to really pinpoint given how I’ve paid all of these pointers quite a lot of attention in my care of him so far. If any of those points are the cause and I got them wrong, my plan for him in the display should solve them.
I really hate breaking qt this early. He’s only been in quarantine for 3 1/2 weeks :/
He’s worth it though, even if the fish get sick sorry to say.
The only reason I’m considering this is tomonts don’t swim when they fall, and they can’t attach to lps tissue, only skeleton. Since his tissue covers all of his skeleton, it would be an amazing feat for a tomont to have landed on his skeleton.
