Bridgelux & Maxwellen vs Cree & Meanwell

RonMidtownStomp

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Does anyone have data or a link to a good comparison of the less expensive brands compared to what I consider to be the old standards? Or personal experience?

Thank you!
 
Does anyone have data or a link to a good comparison of the less expensive brands compared to what I consider to be the old standards? Or personal experience?

Thank you!

Cree is defenitely the best, 55 bridgelux is about equal to 30-35 cree XP-Es this was tested with a PAR meter
 
So is there a way to make up for that with different lenses or driving them with slightly more current? In other words, even at equal current, that doesn't necessarily mean that the rest of the setup was identical? Is there a link to a report with pictures of the test setup?
 
As far as pure luminous output, the Aquastyle "Bridgelux" in neutral white put out 180-190lm (at most) at 700ma. A CREE XP-G at 700ma will put out 225+. Run the XP-G at at least 1A, you're looking at about 300lm. Luxeon Rebel ES in neutral white will put out 250lm at 700ma and 325+ at 1A (and cost less than the XP-G).

Royal blues are the same way. The AQ BL put out about 600-700mW of flux at 700ma, Cree XT-E does 800+ at 700ma, and ~1200mW at 1A. Rebel ES royals will do 1300+ at 700ma and almost 1700mW at 1A.
 
So is there a way to make up for that with different lenses or driving them with slightly more current? In other words, even at equal current, that doesn't necessarily mean that the rest of the setup was identical? Is there a link to a report with pictures of the test setup?

You can't run the Aquastyle BL with any more current. Go much over 700ma and they start popping. Their LEDs really bring down Bridgelux's name. Bridgelux is top notch with both color rendition and efficiency when it comes to 10w+ LEDs.
 
So are they going to come up with an updated version do you think that's more durable at the same price point? Half the price for 10% less output seems like a no brainer. Slightly higher device density should more than make up for the 10% lower output.

I guess the questions are -- Is that enough light?

When I can buy 90 Bridgelux devices with drivers, pots, thermal adhesive and lenses for $230, it sure seems like if it will work and the devices will last for 3+ years, it's way better than running two Radiums? At 14 devices per 42" strip (3" in on each side to cover a 48" tank) that's 3" spacing. 90/14 is 6 strips with extra devices left over. That's one device every 3" in the other direction. That seems like an incredibly high device density. If actually running 3W each at that current, then it's 270W, or half the power consumption.

And for less than $300 for the whole build, I can get almost that much for my barely used bulbs, ballasts and reflectors.

Thoughts?
 
So are they going to come up with an updated version do you think that's more durable at the same price point? Half the price for 10% less output seems like a no brainer. Slightly higher device density should more than make up for the 10% lower output.

I guess the questions are -- Is that enough light?

When I can buy 90 Bridgelux devices with drivers, pots, thermal adhesive and lenses for $230, it sure seems like if it will work and the devices will last for 3+ years, it's way better than running two Radiums? At 14 devices per 42" strip (3" in on each side to cover a 48" tank) that's 3" spacing. 90/14 is 6 strips with extra devices left over. That's one device every 3" in the other direction. That seems like an incredibly high device density. If actually running 3W each at that current, then it's 270W, or half the power consumption.

And for less than $300 for the whole build, I can get almost that much for my barely used bulbs, ballasts and reflectors.

Thoughts?

Take it from me - the Aquastyle LEDs are inexpensive and ok. I had roughly 60 of them over my 55g, and they would burn any SPS I put under them even at 1/2 power. The drivers are complete garbage, they will sometimes buzz and make noise, they have a pretty good failure rate, and they cannot be controlled by any controller. The LEDs are highly heat intolerant. Get them too hot and they start popping. Make darn sure that they are attached well to the heatsink.

I just replaced all of my LEDs for Luxeon Rebel ES and my "Maxwellen" drivers for Steve's LEDs' custom drivers and a Meanwell 25v power supply. Color rendering is significantly better - so much so that I cannot justify saving a small amount of money to get THAT much less color.

If you DO decide on getting those LEDs, do not under ANY circumstances get any white LEDs above 4500K. They are awful. The "10000K" LED is not 10000K like you'd think from a T5 or metal halide bulb. Colors under them are washed out and completely lifeless.

Run the LEDs in a 2:3 ratio of 4500K to royal blue, and cluster them as tightly together as possible on the heatsink. What size tank is it going over? 90 LEDs will do a BIG tank. You will also want to use cyan, red, and violet, as well as some cool blue to even out the spectrum that you don't get from RB and NW.
 
Beg to differ. I run my bridgelux at 800ma and they have been fine for 6months now. Raising the ma will only lessen the life of the diodes. Also I don't use a heatsink instead a high grade aluminum C channel and they do not run over 110 degrees at 100% with a small computer fan over them.

Just my two cents.
 
But I do agree the maxwellen drivers are Crap! Lol.. they do the job tho.. and at 18ish$ not a bad deal imo
 
Beg to differ. I run my bridgelux at 800ma and they have been fine for 6months now. Raising the ma will only lessen the life of the diodes. Also I don't use a heatsink instead a high grade aluminum C channel and they do not run over 110 degrees at 100% with a small computer fan over them.

Just my two cents.

They are hitting 110 degrees? Good lord, man. I'm surprised they have lasted six months. That is a ticking time bomb, my friend.

Are you using the Maxwellen drivers still?
 
No not.the maxwellen drivers . Meanwell 60-48D I run them off my apex, at max heat they are 110. They aren't as weak as they appear
 
No not.the maxwellen drivers . Meanwell 60-48D I run them off my apex, at max heat they are 110. They aren't as weak as they appear
I would bring that heat down ASAP. These aren't the same as the big, quality Bridgelux emitters that can handle those kind of temperatures sustained.
 
Peak its about 110. A fan cools em down every 20mn.

110 is way to much for them to hit pretty much ever. Luxeons and the big emitters (10w+) are the only ones I know that can go near that high. I would leave the fan on at all times, otherwise you will be replacing LEDs soon.
 
LED 3W Brightness:180-200LM-TaoYuan - $0.61pecifically these??
 
Chameleon, that package type is meant to be soldered down to a printed circuit board. Then you have to determine your own thermal solution. Obiwan (JediMasterBen), those custom drivers look perfect as does the pricing on the Luxeon LEDs. 90 degree optics? I'll read more about them later today when I have more time.
 
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I have the aquastyle leds over my tank and they are great
[video=youtube_share;h5UeSnhOv_8]http://youtu.be/h5UeSnhOv_8[/video]
 

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