Brooklynella or something else??

[stuart Kemshead]

I got home today and to my surprise the clownfish have taken to hosting in my hammer coral.

My excitement soon disappeared when I noticed what looks like Brooklynella on one of the clowns.

Sorry for poor pic, he is quite active in his new home.

I have never had brooklynella before (tank is 2 years old ) I have only added a flame angel 6 months ago and a couple of strombs 4 months ago otherwise no new additions for 12 months.

Can Brooklynella be in tank but not effect the fish for a certain period of time..

Could this be from hosting hammer??

I don't have ammonia or nitrite kits but assume they are not an issue as nothing has died.
Nitrate was 1ppm last weekend, it had previously been 0ppm from using nopox but I had stopped dosing 2 weeks ago to try to increase my nitrate levels.

 

[shoelaceike]

Is he eating? It could just be sting marks from the coral

 

[melypr1985]

from what I can see in the picture, those dont look like sting marks. I wouldn't be suprised if he had a few from hosting a new -to him- coral. but I see what looks like brook as well. I'll find more info for you real quick, but here's this for now:

Formalin: Treats Brooklynella and provides temporary relief for Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium). Also may be used as temporary relief, or even as an alternative treatment, for worms such as flukes and black ich.

How To Treat - Formalin is very interesting because its potential is not fully known. It is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes, following the dosage instructions on whatever bottle you use; or at 150 ppm if using "100% formalin" (ex. Formalin-MS). The bath should be done in a large glass bowl or container, and temperature should match the tank the fish is coming from. A bucket is not advised as plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use. It is imperative that you heavily aerate the bath solution for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.

For Brooklynella, multiple baths may be required (so long as symptoms persist), but it’s important to give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths. Formalin has also been used as alternative treatment for external worms such as flukes and black ich. However, at least 2 baths are required (7 days apart) for the same reason described when using Prazipro. For all of the above, post treatment, the fish should not be returned to the same tank/water he came from to prevent reinfection.

You can dose formalin directly in a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress - this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.

Pros - Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Formalin contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing water proof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.

 

[melypr1985]

If you can't find formalin then you can use this alternative:
Acriflavine: I have no first-hand experience with this medication, so everything I know about it comes from one LFS (treating Brooklynella), Google Scholar or other literature. It supposedly is effective against protozoans, bacterial infections and external fungal diseases; however Brook & Uronema are the only two I would bank on. It also is supposedly “reef safe”, so long as it is not mixed with any other medication (very important!)

How To Treat - Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you are using. Acriflavine is often mixed with other medications; howeverAcriflavine-MS is the pure form (and most likely to be “reef safe.”)

Pros - Alternative treatment for Brooklynella & Uronema (useful in locales where formalin is banned); possibly “reef safe.”

Cons/Side Effects - Acriflavine is a “new” medication (to me), so it’s full range of effect is not completely understood. Same goes for possible side effects.

 

[DeniseAndy]

Stings from coral as the fish adapts are usually black spots on the body and head, not white. However, I cannot image Brook would pop up without some major stresser in the system. If he is dead tomorrow, then it was brook. Seriously, it is a fast acting and almost impossible to save once showing symptoms kind of disease.

The pic is blurry, but would hazard a guess that they are stress spots. Have you done anything different to the system? Is the angel showing any signs of stress?

Is the fish eating and behaving normal? Brook makes them very weak and lethargic. Is he doing his normal in-out, rub behavior they do when hosted?

I would not immediately treat unless it has gotten significantly worse. If anything, I would do a freshwater dip to see if anything falls off or he acts better after. Then you know you are dealing with a parasite. Otherwise, they have some foods with antibiotics in them if need by. I have treated my fish in my 210g with antibiotics in the food. Worked great.

 

[melypr1985]

The pic is blurry but that doesn't look like stress spots to me. I agree that it's far fetched to have brook not show up sooner than now. Although, introduction of these things can come from anything wet that we put in the tank without quarantine. The freshwater dip would be the best best for diagnostic purposes. If he clears up some and acts better then we can go from there. Here's how to do the FW dip.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

 

[Humblefish]

I've seen instances where brook (and uronema) can lie dormant. Or a fish develops temporary immunity. For example, a lady I helped one time gave her clownfish a formalin bath for brook and then just put them right back in the DT. To my amazement, symptoms never returned UNTIL about a year later when she moved the tank. Brook came back, she did another formalin bath, threw the clowns back in the DT and to my knowledge they are still fine to this day.

It's worth noting that both brook and uronema have not been as thoroughly studied, and thus are not as well understood, as ich & velvet. I would like to see more pics of the clownfish in the OP as I am not entirely convinced this is brook. However, it might be prudent to perform either a formalin or acriflavine bath on the fish just in case. Or even just a FW dip. According to the literature metro can also be used to treat brook, and I am currently experimenting with this drug for brook treatment with good results.

 

[DeniseAndy]

I've seen instances where brook (and uronema) can lie dormant. Or a fish develops temporary immunity. For example, a lady I helped one time gave her clownfish a formalin bath for brook and then just put them right back in the DT. To my amazement, symptoms never returned UNTIL about a year later when she moved the tank. Brook came back, she did another formalin bath, threw the clowns back in the DT and to my knowledge they are still fine to this day.

It's worth noting that both brook and uronema have not been as thoroughly studied, and thus are not as well understood, as ich & velvet. I would like to see more pics of the clownfish in the OP as I am not entirely convinced this is brook. However, it might be prudent to perform either a formalin or acriflavine bath on the fish just in case. Or even just a FW dip. According to the literature metro can also be used to treat brook, and I am currently experimenting with this drug for brook treatment with good results.

That is crazy. Cannot wait to hear about your experiments with different drugs and disease.

 

[melypr1985]

I've seen instances where brook (and uronema) can lie dormant. Or a fish develops temporary immunity. For example, a lady I helped one time gave her clownfish a formalin bath for brook and then just put them right back in the DT. To my amazement, symptoms never returned UNTIL about a year later when she moved the tank. Brook came back, she did another formalin bath, threw the clowns back in the DT and to my knowledge they are still fine to this day.

It's worth noting that both brook and uronema have not been as thoroughly studied, and thus are not as well understood, as ich & velvet. I would like to see more pics of the clownfish in the OP as I am not entirely convinced this is brook. However, it might be prudent to perform either a formalin or acriflavine bath on the fish just in case. Or even just a FW dip. According to the literature metro can also be used to treat brook, and I am currently experimenting with this drug for brook treatment with good results.

Yeah, wow! Thats incredible.... I look forward to seeing the results of your experiments

 

[stuart Kemshead]

Well the good news is, no dead fish this morn.

All fish seem to be 100% normal this morn, although clown fish still has the white patches around its face.

I work away during week, so will be doing weekly maintenance, cleaning, testing today so may be able to get some better pics.

Thx for all replies.

 

[miyags]

Need a better pic. From what I see, dose not look like brook to me. But need a good side shot.

 

[melypr1985]

I must be seeing something entirely different than yall. Maybe it's just because it's blurry... like one of those roarshack ink blots or something.

 

[DeniseAndy]

I must be seeing something entirely different than yall. Maybe it's just because it's blurry... like one of those roarshack ink blots or something.

I always see dragons in those things. Brook, you do like fish too much.

 

[stuart Kemshead]

I must be seeing something entirely different than yall. Maybe it's just because it's blurry... like one of those roarshack ink blots or something.

I immediately thought brooklynella when I first walked up to tank, but no other related symptoms, so not really sure anymore.

Not having much luck with getting clearer photos due to constant darting in and out of hammer..

 

[Tanggirl12]

I've seen instances where brook (and uronema) can lie dormant. Or a fish develops temporary immunity. For example, a lady I helped one time gave her clownfish a formalin bath for brook and then just put them right back in the DT. To my amazement, symptoms never returned UNTIL about a year later when she moved the tank. Brook came back, she did another formalin bath, threw the clowns back in the DT and to my knowledge they are still fine to this day.

It's worth noting that both brook and uronema have not been as thoroughly studied, and thus are not as well understood, as ich & velvet. I would like to see more pics of the clownfish in the OP as I am not entirely convinced this is brook. However, it might be prudent to perform either a formalin or acriflavine bath on the fish just in case. Or even just a FW dip. According to the literature metro can also be used to treat brook, and I am currently experimenting with this drug for brook treatment with good results.

So much for leaving a tank fallow for security

 

[Humblefish]

So much for leaving a tank fallow for security

For brook, it might just be that the fish were able to develop temporary immunity. But you are absolutely correct when it comes to uronema... it is a “free living” parasite which does not require a fish host, so it can survive in a fishless environment almost indefinitely.

 

[stuart Kemshead]

It seems whatever the problem is, it appears to be clearing up.
The only thing that has changed, that i can determine, is the clowns started living in the hammer coral.