Brown hair algae

Looks like early stage dino. When we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more. The same with vodka dosing such as NoPox - its fueling them even more.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed with dino cells.
Agree, doing a blackout takes the food source away from the cells which are photosynthetic. Take away the light, youve taken away their energy source.
In addition, at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX. GHA will minimize during this process as well.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them.
 
It can but there’s way to compete with it.. bottomed out no3 and po4 is all bad if it truly is.. a clean up crew of turbos will knock out most hair algae along with a fuge and some macro algae as in chaeto etc..uv light would help also. once you get Dino’s from zero nutrients most people quit and give up because it’s a never ending battle! It can takes months to years to eradicate. There’s plenty of chemicals you can add also but that’s a last resort.. it seems there’s nothing in this tank but rocks so it a option honestly.. not sure how it was cycled either..
You are exactly correct. If you don't have proper parameters in your tank then you lose your biodiversity and microfauna which can outcompete nuisance algae with cleaner help.

OP, you scrubbed and cleaned your tank but you never corrected the source of your algae problems so it returns again. You will have various stages of algae over the course of the first year which is normal part of maturing process. You need to focus on stability and realize that algae battles are not fixed overnight. It took me months to get over it naturally with no chemicals.

Get your nitrates to 10 and phosphate. 05 to
1. Reduce lights to 6 hourse a day with blue and uv only no whites. Strong diverse cleaner crew. Give them daily briefing on their mission assignments. Weekly water changes with manual removal. Big tank like yours is perfect for a algae eating tang fish too. Dose pods and add phytoplankton daily. Dose PNS probio which is natural heterotrophic bacteria that reduces organic waste feeding the algae. Realize this may take several months to clear but that fine. Focus on stable parameters. Fuge can help also to outcompete tank algae. Hobby is challenging but not unbeatable with nuisance algae.
 
Firstly, I am not a "pro" but I have battled some hair algae over the last year and half with my tank. I have a couple questions and a couple generic concepts and suggestions for you.

Questions:
1. Can we see a full tank picture in addition to the close-up shots you posted This will help understand the magnitude of the current outbreak.
2. How old is this tank?
3. What's the livestock?
4. What's your water change schedule?
5. What are you using for filtration? (Skimmer, Refugium, Filter Pads, Floss, Roller Mat, UV, etc.)
6. What are you using for clean up crew?
7. What and how much are you feeding?

It appears that your tank is favoring algae growth as its nutrient export mechanism. To control this a couple general things need to happen. First you need to understand a couple concepts:

What goes in, must come out.
The tank is a closed little ecosystem that you are polluting every day or couple days with food depending on your feeding frequency. Food is decomposed into its base nutrients nitrate and phosphate.

Algae will grow when it has food, light and surface area to grow. Herbivores will keep the algae pruned back until you can export the nutrients through another mechanism.

To control the algae we need to work to find a balance since corals and coralline also need food, light and surface area to grow. Once corals and coralline take over the hair algae will have less opportunity for growth.

Suggestions:
1. Pick a mechanism(s) to export nitrate and phosphates you are adding via food. For nitrates the easiest mechanism is water changes. For phosphates you can use controlled algae growth (ie. a refugium), Granular Ferric Oxide, Lanthanum Chloride, Skimming, etc. I'm currently using a combination of skimmer, refugium and GFO. I would use a roller mat if my tank could fit one.

2. Manually remove as much algae as you can as frequently as you can. You are you tank's nutrient importer so understand you also need to be your tank's nutrient exporter. In time corals and coralline will limit surface area for algae. The goal is to promote their growth.

3. HERBIVORES - A diverse group of critters helps keep algae trimmed back. Pick multiple species for best effect.

4. I have not found chasing particular nitrate or phosphate levels to be especially helpful in the battle against algae for what it's worth.
 
If the tank has no livestock, then I would definitely try blacking out the glass and turning off the lights and just running in the dark for a week or two.

Eventually, every photosynthetic thing will die off in total darkness. Then you can start again with a truly clean slate.

If you do go that route, I would also suggest adding something with some seeds of copepods and amphipods. As the algae dies, they'll eat it and clean the rocks off for you. That way you'll turn the lights back on to see nice clean rocks and not a bunch of decaying dead algae.

That seems like it'll get all the pain out of the way up front, and you won't drag the battle out over months or years.
This was the best advice EVER! Thank you so much. I took the plastic off last night and the tank is white white! Thank you!!
 

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