BRS 4 Stage Reverse Osmosis 75 GPD

[Braveheart!]

My Dual TDS Meter is reading 4 on the out. It is time to change the filter? Also, does anyone know what the effect of not being zero is? It was zero for the longest time. thanks

 

[BigKid4788]

When is the last time you changed the filters
Sediment?
Carbon?
DI ?
Membrane?

long term impact is potential algae issues.

 

[Braveheart!]

never. It is 7 months old

 

[KStatefan]

Time to change the DI resin.

 

[Braveheart!]

Time to change the DI resin.

thanks

 

[KStatefan]

thanks

might need sediment and carbon also depending on the quantity and quality of your source water.

 

[Dom]

My Dual TDS Meter is reading 4 on the out. It is time to change the filter? Also, does anyone know what the effect of not being zero is? It was zero for the longest time. thanks

My experience has been that the longer the system runs, the more TDS comes down.

Typically, I read a TDS of 5 when I start the system. But within 5 minutes of initiating flow, it drops to zero.

I would suggest letting it run for about 10 minutes and see if you observe the TDS coming down. Also, a flush valve can be useful in extending the system's media.

At 7 months, flushing before collecting should work. My media is over 2 years old and after flushing, I still get ZERO TDS.

 

[BigKid4788]

I would change the sediment, carbon and di every 6 month. Save you headache long term

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

If it’s the Built in TDS Meter I would check it with another meter, IE Hand Held. Mine drifts from time to time. Last time it did this I used One teaspoon of Citric Acid to One Quart of warm water. Took the TDS Duel Meter off the tubing. With a forced Stream of Citric Acid, flushed the Probe, rinsed it, and reinstalled. BTW It drifted one digit at a time, mine at the moment, won’t show Beltsville “1” TDS. You can also check it with freshly uncapped distilled water.

 

[PatW]

If you have a 4 stage, your first stages are sediment, chlorine block and finer filter, reverse osmosis membrane, and then the water comes out of that complex and goes into your deionization membrane.

I have a 2 stage TDS meter. I meter the water coming out of my sediment filter, chlorine blocks and DI membrane complex. The water comes out at 2 tds and on a good day 1 tds. Then it goes through the DI resin and comes out at 0 tds. You really want 0 tds.

If your reading is above 0 at the end, you need to replace or repack your DI cartridge.

On the complex, you want to change your sediment filters and chlorine blocks periodically. If chlorine gets into your RO membrane, it does bad things to it. Your RO membrane should be good for a number of years unless you are producing a potload of water.

 

[mdb_talon]

Without knowing how much water has been through it is hard to say which filters to change. Personally I would always replace sediment and carbon no more than 6 month interval. They are cheap and helps make sure the expensive ro membrane lasts...which helps ensure you don't burn through expensive di resin. In this case I would change everything except the ro membrane, but in future at least change the sediment and carbon filters more frequently

 

[Braveheart!]

My experience has been that the longer the system runs, the more TDS comes down.

Typically, I read a TDS of 5 when I start the system. But wishing 5 minutes of initiating flow, it drops to zero.

I would suggest letting it run for about 10 minutes and see if you observe the TDS coming down. Also, a flush valve can be useful in extending the system's media.

At 7 months, flushing before collecting should work. My media is over 2 years old and after flushing, I still get ZERO TDS.

thanks