BRS ro/di conundrum

[Fizzicks]

I bought the BRS 4 stage plus ro/di unit a few months ago during the summer when I initially set up my tank. (red sea reefer 170) https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-75gpd-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

It was working great until recently the TDS meter started reading higher out TDS than in!
In is about 25 ppm where as the output is about 35.

I run it at about 60 PSI off soft water.

I probably make about 12 gallons of water a week with it.

Flush kit isn't making any difference. And I haven't fiddled around with the connections for the TDS meter or water lines.

I doubt I've exhausted the resin or membranes this fast, Any ideas?

 

[EriksOasis]

First Step would be replacing the filters the membrane I wouldn’t worry about they last at least a year. Before replacing filters go with a cheaper option and replace the batteries in the meter I did that and got a more accurate reading.

 

[Fizzicks]

First Step would be replacing the filters the membrane I wouldn’t worry about they last at least a year. Before replacing filters go with a cheaper option and replace the batteries in the meter I did that and got a more accurate reading.

Ive only made about 150 gallons of water with it. Seems a bit soon to have to replace components. Or is this typical? I only have about 25 TDS in. I figured they would last longer than 150 gallons.

 

[miPapareef]

I’m pretty sure the in is the reading after the RO membrane and into the DI. If you really do have 25 tds going in your DI filter it will definitely saturate the resin in a few months.

Do you have a color changing DI resin and did it turn color?

Just for reference I have 2 tds going into my DI resin and I change it out every 5 months.

 

[Fudsey]

TDS in is more than likely what is coming out of the membrane. On my 4 stage BRS unit in is before DI resin and out is after.

 

[Fudsey]

Have you ever changed the DI resin?

I can go through resin in about 2 months

 

[McArcher]

There must be something wrong with your TDS meter. I have had the exact same unit for a year now and mine is still making 0 TDS water.
One thing I do when I flush is to watch the TDS on the flush water until it gets down to 4 or 5 before I stop flushing.
How often do you flush and for how long?

 

[Fudsey]

Also have you ever checked your tap TDS?

 

[Fizzicks]

I’m pretty sure the in is the reading after the RO membrane and into the DI. If you really do have 25 tds going in your DI filter it will definitely saturate the resin in a few months.

Do you have a color changing DI resin and did it turn color?

Just for reference I have 2 tds going into my DI resin and I change it out every 5 months.

Its brown! after referencing the BRS brand resin it says that means its exhausted. (I assume thats what mine came with?)

Would you suggest I just change the resin or get the 4 part replacement kit. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-chlorine-voc-replacement-filter-kit.html

 

[K. Steven]

Sounds like your membrane isn't functioning properly. TDS of 25 after the membrane is really high, especially with the ~98% rejection rates of membranes now.

 

[miPapareef]

To answer your question we’d need to know the incoming tds. You should be getting 95% rejection so if you have 500 tds in than you’re still good on the RO membrain? Then to know if the carbon block needs to be replaced you should test for chlorine in the RO output water. Then for the sediment filter if the flow rate is still 3 gallons an hour and the PSI reading isn’t dropping, then your ok there.

If all that is unknown, then just replace them.

 

[Fudsey]

I agree, get the kit. At least that way you have a backup for everything. Resin is cheaper if you get the bulk package and change it out yourself

 

[Fizzicks]

I really appreciate everyones quick and informative replies, Especially the characteristics to specifically look for to diagnose individual stages failing.

Im getting good flow still at pressure so I think my sediment filter is still good. Im going to test the chlorine to check the carbon block. And also for sure get new resin in there as I can tell now its quite exhausted.

I don't have a way to measure my tap TDS but my local water company website has it listed as 600-700 ppm!

No wonder my resin got exhausted after 150 gallons of water.

 

[lion king]

I have the same unit, the tds meter reads water from tap coming into the unit and water at the end after the di resin. I think you have a faulty tds meter, or a battery issue or something along those lines. As an example my tds going in is in the 400s, even with good water tds going in would be much higher. I recently added an additional meter after the ro membrane to figure out an issue I was having. If you have the color changing di resin it turns almost to a beige color when fully exhausted. The membrane will last you a couple/few years. I usually change my resin 2 to 3 times before I change the carbon and sediment block. If you start getting lower water pressure the sediment block needs changing, and the carbon block usually last just as long.

 

[EriksOasis]

With a source water tds being so high it will exhaust your resin much much faster. In your scenario you should buy bulk resin and repack your own cartridges it will save you money in the long run.

 

[Forsaken77]

Ive only made about 150 gallons of water with it. Seems a bit soon to have to replace components. Or is this typical? I only have about 25 TDS in. I figured they would last longer than 150 gallons.

You only made 150 gallons of clean water. That means you also had 600 gallons of waste water pass through everything, for a total of 750 gallons (4:1 ratio of waste to product water).

The sediment filter is the one that gets changed frequently because even if your pressure hasn't dropped, it's still sending crap into the carbon filter. So when your sediment gets really brown, change it. They're cheap!

I'm also going to assume you're not flushing the membrane before you start making water. All the stuff the membrane pulls out, just sits in the tube of water and leeches out of the membrane when not being used. So if you haven't used the unit in a week, and didn't flush it good, you will get extremely high tds water going into the DI canister that has leeched out of the membrane for the padt week.

You also have to pay attention to the DI canisters color. It starts as blue. The more brown it gets, the more it's being used up. The higher the tds going into that canister, the faster it'll get used up, that's why you want to flush before making water.

If you have questions, just ask.

 

[Benqb007]

I went through my resin pretty quick as well. When you replenish your filters and resin, be sure to pack it in tight. Aside from what everyone else said, I invested in a booster pump and additional membrane. 60 PSI is sufficient, but that booster bump and membrane really helped me get me worth out of the system. I run a 90 gal predator, 125 mixed, 60 frag, 40 quarantine, and nano, so I go through the water

 

[Mark-Stover]

I really appreciate everyones quick and informative replies, Especially the characteristics to specifically look for to diagnose individual stages failing.

Im getting good flow still at pressure so I think my sediment filter is still good. Im going to test the chlorine to check the carbon block. And also for sure get new resin in there as I can tell now its quite exhausted.

I don't have a way to measure my tap TDS but my local water company website has it listed as 600-700 ppm!

No wonder my resin got exhausted after 150 gallons of water.

You do have a way to test your tap TDS....simply move the TDS meter to the port where your tap water enters the filters. I moved mine initially just so I knew for sure what my normal tap water TDS was. They are very simple to move.

 

[EriksOasis]

I actually use a handheld tds meter so I can see what the tap water is and double check the product water.

 

[Opus]

You really need to test the tap TDS. As stated, it should be easy to one of the inline tds points to the tap side. If your water company is correct, then 25 tds is getting you around 96% rejection rate on the RO membrane which is within its specs. I do find it strange you are getting such a high reading after your DI. Usually it slowly creeps up on the tds. Mine will start reading 1 and it may do that for a month before it changes to 2 or 3.

Also, as mentioned, I believe a handheld tds meter is a great investment.


If you order new filters, I would suggest going with 1 micron instead of their default of 5 micron.