I don’t think this is true. I think they could do 1 carbon, and 2 di, they would just need to fix the order the water flows through. Also, I have read if you are going to do a cation and anion separately, you would still need to do a mix carriage, is this true?
That last image is not the system the op has, that is an option that was given to them as a 5-stage system with 2 carbons and 1 DI.
No you do not. I ran solely separate resins for the last 2 years. Just this last week I added a 3rd resin canister for mixed.
This is exactly how I do it. This way if I get a little lazy I have the last stage di pick up the slack till I rotate it back and add the fresh di at the end. 2 di stages just means I do not have to change the di resin immediately when tds appears after the first di stage. I don't let it go a long time but at least having that second di stage I can finish filling my mixing station and top off storage containers etc rather than having to stop everything to change di resin. I like a tds meter between the di resins and after the last di. I also have a tds meter on the source water and after the membrane but only because I had a few in line tds meters laying around.
Using the photo above with the red numbers: If I made the last 2 stages a DI where would I put the white RO membrane on the top? That is the 4th stage, so you are telling me to replace that with a DI and I am wondering how that works. Seeing that cannister is white while all the others are clear does it take a specific filter content? Or can I put anything in that all white non see through cannister at the top? Following this approach I would have to move a bit more around.
Can you dumb this down for me a bit more? I am not sure what separate the DI resin out means. Not sure what bags of cation and anion is, and what filter media that would represent. You have to realize you are talking to somone who doesnt know much about any of this..
What do you mean by "rotate" it out? Does this mean when stage 4 DI goes bad, you take that out, put final stage 5 DI resin back in stage 4, than replace new DI resin in stage 5?? Hope that makes sense. Thank you for clarifying though your post helped a lot. I have tiny tanks, so not sure if I will get the same benefit. The TDS placement makes a lot of sense. Wow 4 TDS meters haha. Guess you cant go wrong with more accuracy and knowledge.
Thank you! Still okay to chat seeing I already bought everything from BRS, and probably will not be getting else extra? Buckeye Hydro - you are from Ohio?? Akron here!
Exactly. Since the first DI will exhaust fastest, if the second still seems useable then move it to the first position and let it remove more before you throw it out.
The numbers just help solidify the order for me, but at this point it has become quite clear even without the numbers from all your help what I need to do! I really do appreciate the clarification. I am looking everything up online, but sometimes things just go over my head. A question to sum it up for me: a mixed resin bed will come in 1 cannister? Or would I get a single anion resin bed in one cannister, a cation bed in another? Or a both in each cannister.
"Mixed bed" means the cation and anion resin beads are mixed together in a single container.
Using the correct jargon will help you to come up to speed and communicate with others.
This is a HOUSING - they can be blue, black, red, clear, etc. Here we have a HOUSING with a blue SUMP and a black LID:
This is a CARTRIDGE - it could be a sediment cartridge, a carbon cartridge, a DI cartridge, etc. It is the generic name for a filter that goes inside a HOUSING.
Just get 2 color-changing mixed beds. Sounds like you won't be making large volumes of RODI water in short periods of time so they should last a while regardless of your water chemistry.
Good suggestion! Your information and thoughts have been very helpful. I am going to wait to hear from a couple others opinions specifically BRS staff before finally deciding what filter media to go with. I am guessing I will probably stick with the 2 mixed resin beds as you are saying.
No o-ring on our faucet we are trying to use. But I’m pretty sure the diverter has one it it. That should be totally new though. Still could be the issue?
If the drip isn't too bad, I would probably just ignore it for now - you said you're moving soon, right?
Also, some sink faucets just aren't made with the intention of having things attached - even though they are threaded, they might not be drip proof. If you have a washing machine, you can get a splitter and connect your RODI there; I use the washing machine drain for the "waste" line.
I guess the pressure gauge will tell me if I am safe or not with the drip! As long as I am in the safe range I think everything is fine, and the sink will catch the leaking water.
