BRS RO Drinking Water System Shut Off

BlueWorldJeff · Jan 27, 2020

I have a BRS RODI system with a sediment filter, 5 micron filter, 1 micron filter, 2 x 75 GPD RO membranes, DI canister and the pressurized tank for a drinking water faucet.

I had an ongoing issue where the unit would not shut off when the pressurized tank gets full. I replaced the Automatic Shut off valve and all the filters when I moved into my new house in july and went through troubleshooting the issue here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brs-rodi-with-drinking-water-tank-issues.648547/#post-6509243

The solution was to include the DI canister, even though I wasnt producting RODI water. For some reason this created enough back pressure to trigger the ASO valve to turn off reliably.

This past weekend, I changed out the filters (sediment, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon, and both 75 GPD RO membranes.

Since I changed out the filters, the ASO will not shut the water off, even after the pressurized tank is full, the water just keeps running out of the waste line into my sink.

I tried taking off the DI canister and just running the product line to the tank, but it still wont shut off. The only way to get it to shut off is to turn the valve on the pressurized tank to off. This creates enough back pressure to shut off the ASO valve.

I guess my question is - why would changing the filters make the ASO stop working? I wouldve thought it wouldve worked better. Is the pressurized tank not producing enough back pressure for some reason once full. I would assume turning the valve on the tank to off is the same as it being full?

Thank you for your help. I need this to work 100% reliably as I dont like wasting good water down the drain

BlueWorldJeff · Jan 28, 2020

This is my current setup

Only thing different is that I changed the Sediment, Carbon x 2 and RO membrane x2 filters

ASO does not activate when the pressurized tank is full, but does if I turn the blue valve on the tank to off.

MTBake · Jan 28, 2020

I have never ran the dual membrane setup myself. I typically call Russ @Buckeye Hydro whenever I have an issue with my system that I can not solve myself. Russ has made water purification his living for the past 20+ years. Really knows his stuff.

I do have a few questions though;

How many check valves do you have installed on the system?

How old is the check valve itself? (Edit: shut off valve, not check valve)

What's the water pressure at?

BlueWorldJeff · Jan 28, 2020

MTBake said:
I have never ran the dual membrane setup myself. I typically call Russ @Buckeye Hydro whenever I have an issue with my system that I can not solve myself. Russ has made water purification his living for the past 20+ years. Really knows his stuff.

I do have a few questions though;

How many check valves do you have installed on the system?

How old is the check valve itself? (Edit: shut off valve, not check valve)

What's the water pressure at?

Thank you for your response and info. I have one check valve right after the T of the product line to the DI canister and before the T for the to the Pressurized tank and RO faucet. I believe the other check valve(s) exist on the product line output of the RO membranes. I have never replaced these, but the inline check valve that came as part of the drinking water add-on is less than a year old. The Shut off valve is less than a year old, I replaced it when it wasnt shutting off after adding the RO faucet /pressurized tank Sept-2019.

I do not know what my water pressure at the source line is, the pressure gauge stopped working a long time ago.

It just seems wierd to me that it does shut off when I turn off the tank valve, but not when the tank is full, where else could it be releasing pressure?