Bryopsis Algae, Magnesium Still A Solution?

[RMS18]

I have been battling patches of bryopsis algae for a while now, and it's getting old. I have it poping up in the sand, in zoas and acans. Some corals I can not dip in peroxide as they are growing on the rocks which also can't be removed. Before the nutrient police state I need to get nutrient levels under control, let me state they are, phosphates .03 and nitrates 3-5ppm. This is the only algae I have. I found a thread from 2010 about raising magnesium levels to 1600-1800 using Kent tech M. I wanted to see if this was still a good method to kill this stuff off for good?

 

[JimWelsh]

Many people have reported success with Kent Tech M. The suspicion is that another element present as a contaminate is the active ingredient that kills Bryopsis. One theory in its infancy is that that element might be lithium. I'd like to test that theory, but I have no Bryopsis. As it happens, I used to, but it just went away by itself. It also just so happens that my Triton test shows insanely high lithium in my tank. I've never used Kent Tech M, but I have used a DIY magnesium supplement that I'm pretty sure has large amounts of lithium in the magnesium chloride, and that that is where my lithium came from.

 

[RMS18]

Many people have reported success with Kent Tech M. The suspicion is that another element present as a contaminate is the active ingredient that kills Bryopsis. One theory in its infancy is that that element might be lithium. I'd like to test that theory, but I have no Bryopsis. As it happens, I used to, but it just went away by itself. It also just so happens that my Triton test shows insanely high lithium in my tank. I've never used Kent Tech M, but I have used a DIY magnesium supplement that I'm pretty sure has large amounts of lithium in the magnesium chloride, and that that is where my lithium came from.

Interesting... I just started dosing tonight. My current level is 1300 and will be going to 1600 over 7 days. Are there any know negative side effects to anemones/clams/shrimp? I don't care about the snails or hermits.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Some people have suggested that Kent Tech M doesn't work as well any more, which might mean they changed raw material suppliers, but I do not know that.

I've not heard of any problems with anemones/clams/shrimp at reasonable doses.

 

[brandon429]

If this doesn't work consider giving our challenge thread a try, removing rocks isn't always required and though it is the right action that would speed up your process of holdfast kill, all rocks can be removed from any system, 90% of people will not do the work so we developed in-tank methods that work great.

Having to do physical work (removal, more than once) to beat holdfast-based invasions is no fun, but it works. Consider trying some specific in tank work we've already got some early documented success with, macros forum pest algae challenge thread. Drain the tank methods are also common access tricks, that's what I use.

We find that avoiding work is both the direct cause of many algae invasions and what continues the eutrophication of the tank. Arresting the process has a massive documented outcome, and the degree of work done after allowing and farming the invasion is directly related to the eradication time. By all means try other methods, this is an ok last resort when not used as a completely exclusive first resort when the very first patch appeared

If it's true bryopsis the tech m has the most documented fixes online, and where those may have lapsed we pick up the rest just fine.

 

[RMS18]

If this doesn't work consider giving our challenge thread a try, removing rocks isn't always required and though it is the right action that would speed up your process of holdfast kill, all rocks can be removed from any system, 90% of people will not do the work so we developed in-tank methods that work great.

Having to do physical work (removal, more than once) to beat holdfast-based invasions is no fun, but it works. Consider trying some specific in tank work we've already got some early documented success with, macros forum pest algae challenge thread. Drain the tank methods are also common access tricks, that's what I use.

We find that avoiding work is both the direct cause of many algae invasions and what continues the eutrophication of the tank. Arresting the process has a massive documented outcome, and the degree of work done after allowing and farming the invasion is directly related to the eradication time. By all means try other methods, this is an ok last resort when not used as a completely exclusive first resort when the very first patch appeared

If it's true bryopsis the tech m has the most documented fixes online, and where those may have lapsed we pick up the rest just fine.

Link?

 

[brandon429]

See djbetterly's concentrator here, try it with your tech m
http://reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread.187042/page-3

A diabetics syringe slow injection is covered, Saran Wrap mods are covered, creativity in spot treats is key

It doesn't have to be peroxide used, concentrating these chems on the target is what works much better than blasting the whole tank. I think your tech m as an underwater spot injection would work and the dose input doesn't have to jack your mg levels sky high. Cool trick! Def pull and remove/external treat any areas you can as those will comply but the underwater areas can still be concentrate accessed and that's a change from whole tank dosing. The spot gets massive ppm treatment and the whole tank doesn't spike.

Our spot treats or dips externally don't contact coral, they contact the target. We figure it makes no sense to stress and dip corals whose flesh isn't housing the holdfasts, but we hit the rocks where they are located hard...predict the dieoff time, then take some after shots.

Bryopsis usually requires a few touch ups for having let it set in, but you will love the initial dieoff and it w begin to tip the controls in your favor, currently the plant has the say. We don't jump off and dose the whole tank with anything...we use spot tests and go slow, no rush needed this plant will slowly comply.

 

[RMS18]

See djbetterly's concentrator here, try it with your tech m
http://reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread.187042/page-3

A diabetics syringe slow injection is covered, Saran Wrap mods are covered, creativity in spot treats is key

It doesn't have to be peroxide used, concentrating these chems on the target is what works much better than blasting the whole tank. I think your tech m as an underwater spot injection would work and the dose input doesn't have to jack your mg levels sky high. Cool trick! Def pull and remove/external treat any areas you can as those will comply but the underwater areas can still be concentrate accessed and that's a change from whole tank dosing. The spot gets massive ppm treatment and the whole tank doesn't spike.

Our spot treats or dips externally don't contact coral, they contact the target. We figure it makes no sense to stress and dip corals whose flesh isn't housing the holdfasts, but we hit the rocks where they are located hard...predict the dieoff time, then take some after shots.

Bryopsis usually requires a few touch ups for having let it set in, but you will love the initial dieoff and it w begin to tip the controls in your favor, currently the plant has the say. We don't jump off and dose the whole tank with anything...we use spot tests and go slow, no rush needed this plant will slowly comply.

Is blasting a colonial of zoas, acans or other corals with magnesium safe?

 

[brandon429]

I wouldn't do that, so id leave that unanswered. We've just had a few people use kent as direct additives to burn vs peroxide, something to consider in pre planning

If I had your invader, id be externally treating via peroxide not contacting any flesh, it would only touch the target and there would be no algae by end of week and there on out...trabajo

you can hit them with peroxide if needed to get at the tangles within the zos, we document that well
again I wouldn't contact the non target areas uneeded for acans etc.... regarding magnesium full strength that's something to be considered. at a minimum safety creativity, you could mix up a soln of 1800 ppm kents, and use that as the additive. you don't have to apply full mix

 

[brandon429]

hey can you post a full tank shot im curious as to the challenge level. I hated posting pics of my tank invaded by red mushrooms so I understand if not lol pm it

 

[RMS18]

hey can you post a full tank shot im curious as to the challenge level. I hated posting pics of my tank invaded by red mushrooms so I understand if not lol pm it

It's not severe at all, you'll probably think I'm nuts but I heard it can take over so I want it all gone. Here's some pictures.

 

[brandon429]

the number of people in our wrecked threads who retroactively wish they acted when it was this easy

I guess 1000

nice tank this low level invasions should be zapped! not that peroxide is better than any other cheat molecule we just wield it well, consider using it here.

use underwater spot injections like we do in the threads even if its just a syringe, peroxide wont harm that setup. nothing will beat the safety and efficacy of lifting out those areas, some can be lifted out I can see.

no treatment for the sanbed growths, just lift out that portion of sand and blast it under scalding water then put back in. chems only where we need to.


no nutrient issues cause what you have, only import/non qt

in the wild, a grazer would eat that up.

 

[brandon429]

the lps

lift them out, use a q tip or tiny dropper to only hit the actual skeletal areas the algae is anchored to, its not on the flesh. lift out zoanthid rocks apply any way you want, ideally its little target dribbles right on the target as a practice shy away from dousing the flesh. the thicker flesh of zos really can be an anchor point, they even commonly incorporate rocky bits into the flesh and those can be anchor points too.

but we don't go off whole tank, the thread shows pick a spot, do a test, treat no others, check back in 3 days for safety and prediction establishment.

peroxide has the totally unreasonable expectation of full kill zero loss on first go, if that's not attained the hate soars heh

would I like to blast your tank underwater to show it can be done? sure, but I cant recommend anything that has a risk for fear of a tarnish after 6 yrs heh


test methods also allow you compare among offers before a full commit. since the lps are not anchored permanently id really have to recommend external treatments on all of these, a little rock lifting is good for the back the only reason to bother with that much work is it allows direct target work not hitting the flesh nontarget / total safety

 

[davocean]

The tech M has worked for me a number of times, even on my most recent tank which is only at 3mo old.
It's been the easiest solution for me, no ill affects

 

[brandon429]

most do use that for bry

 

[davocean]

If your present mag level is 1300 you need to bump it slightly anyway, might as well begin dosing at a safe pace w/ the tech M and see where it goes.
Being that your mag is already low you may not need to elevate it that much, as it's not so much the elevated level as it is how much is actually tech M

 

[Smite]

I beat bryopsis with tech M earlier in the year, so it's still an option that works. Mixed reef with no I'll effects on softies,zoas,lps,nps, sps or anemones & seafans

I planned to raise my levels from 1350 to 1600. The problem was gone before I reached 1600. Spot treatment helps with bad areas. I would kill my flow, let the water settle and then spot treat to maximize contact time. Next day the spot would be browned, soon after gone.

Good luck, it's just a shame tech M is fairly expensive and takes a good amount to raise levels.

My system was 66g

 

[brandon429]

one of the coolest most least practiced tenets in reefkeeping regarding algae is that 100% of it is optional. If we see a tank that has algae, its being farmed on purpose against systems documented showing how to be without. That may well be done for valid reasons, many want only natural control methods and that's understandable, but as long as people are using non natural methods and 3 day timelines to be algae free with no loss, that has elbowed its way into the mix as well making all other invasions purely optional.

Seeking remedies this early is your greatest asset, you can try any water bound easy method first and it has an 85% chance of working without a single collateral loss, mg boosting is really well documented. There are limited events of clean up crew losses, a few corals, but other confounds such as blasting high lighting and elevated alk could have contributed there as well, I like to scale down the overall metabolism of a tank undergoing any water work against algae, po4 stripping included. If at any time the water bound methods don't work, its easy to revert to external work with peroxide and the death phase for that strain is 36 hours post treatment using a brand new unopened bottle of 3%. Im not entirely sure its bryopsis, lacks some feathery looking side growths but regardless either way these algal families are vast and die within 36 hours even if it is or isn't bryopsis. the holdfast system which prob isn't entirely bad here determines the growback, predictably it might take a couple runs to zap it good and permanent.

Even though we hadn't discussed the cause here, its helpful to know. Purely hitchhiker non QT caused, when eradicated it cannot come back even if you spike nutrients, cyano and other forms of green micro and hair algae sure might tho.

 

[Vaughn17]

I recently treated my 40 gal. mixed reef tank with Kent Tech M for 5 months for a moderate outbreak of bryopsis. The bryopsis definitely took a hit but would not quite die. So I raised my mag to 2000 ppm but still had bryopsis. At that point, I separated some of the mag (the clear liquid) from what I guessed is probably the bryopsis killing secret ingredient (the brownish stuff that sinks to the bottom of the container), in an attempt to dose less mag and more secret ingredient. This definitely made a big difference, and I thought I'd won...but no, soon as I stopped dosing, bryopsis came back. So, I took the tank apart and removed any bryopsis from rocks outside the tank, then scrubbed the area with peroxide. Some of the rocks had large sps colonies, so I was careful not to splash any of the peroxide on them. However, one of my zoa colonies, which had a little bit of bryopsis growing in it, got the full peroxide treatment and was unharmed.

After about five minutes (30 seconds for the zoa), each rock was rinsed in tank water (that I'd previously siphoned from the tank) and returned to the tank. I have seen very little bryopsis since (2 weeks ago). My plan is to remove any bryopsis that I see and treat again with the peroxide (outside the tank). BTW, the tank's nitrate averages between 1 and 2 ppm, and the phosphate is undectable with both Salifert and Elos test kits.

 

[Smite]

Whatever you do, do it slowly. Take your time. That includes cleaning up your water. You don't want to pull nutrients out too quickly if you do decide to starve it out. I've had major bleaching event from stripping nutrients to quickly.