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At 3 months you haven't even gotten to the uglies. Which will be 10x worse for you using tap vs RoDi. Another reason to check into it.
 
Deltec
Jekyl said:
Rodi systems are very easily installed. Up front costs are the only draw back. I use the BRS 5 stage and love it. Distilled water is better, water purchased from your LFS would be even better than that.
Click to expand...
Tds in distilled water should be zero at point of creation.
Cant say the same after it sits in the plastic containers in the store.
 
@BSTurbo6321 overall I think you’re okay. Couple of things. First, anemone are filter feeders and with a “young” tank it may be hard to get enough food. Second, it looks like the anemone is in a different spot between the two pics. If it’s moving around the tank it’s just looking for the right combination of light and flow.

More info about your tank would be helpful
 
Saltyreef said:
Tds in distilled water should be zero at point of creation.
Cant say the same after it sits in the plastic containers in the store.
Click to expand...
I always heard there was a difference still. I've also heard RODI shouldn't be used for drinking.
 
BSTurbo6321 said:
Yeah I assumed I was being impatient with nems.
my lighting is a kessil a80 tuna blue

parameters
Alk- 15dkh
Phos- 1ppm
Nitrate- 5ppm
Ammonia-0
Calcium-480
Click to expand...
Phos is a little elevated but not a cause. mature tanks of 6 months best but BTA can do well in a 3 month tank, However a 3 month tank is subject to chemistry changes such as ammonia and nitrates and at a stage where water changes are certain and BTAs do not favor these changes. I believe your light is the issue here-Insufficient.
Monitor water regularly to assure there are no major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be safe verified by using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temp: 77°F - 80°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
  • Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
  • Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < 5 -10
  • Phosphate < .04 - .08
Most anemones tend to move around the tank until they find a suitable spot and if starts to move , simply direct flow towards the nem. Anemone lighting is an important part of their care as they need good light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic and absorb light to produce their inner food and growth cells known as zooxanthellae in their body which they feed on. Without adequate lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae which many think is poop and turn white which is bleaching and often leads to their death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended as well as moderate light. Too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone which stresses them.
Assure your light is moderate and flow is not excessive in your case. I again believe light is inadequate. Consider an Ai 26 or 32hd, or even noopsyche which will satisfy their lighting needs
RODI is a must and even water from the refill stations at walmart will suffice.
Tap alone has ingredients such as chloramines, lead, zinc and others and just not worth it . water conditioners such as Prime will dilute certain elements but not remove them.
RODI is the way to manage water which is the lifeline of all our specimens in the tank
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
Jekyl said:
I always heard there was a difference still. I've also heard RODI shouldn't be used for drinking.
Click to expand...
Thats because the water is so pure, it can literally naturally pull minerals out of your body as it passes through. Its also a very good solvent/ corrosive to many things.

Distilled water on the other hand is perfectly safe to drink and has been a staple in my home since my son was born. We used it to mix his formula and decided, based on these facts, that it was ok for us to drink too.

www.worldofwater.ca

What Doctors say about Drinking Distilled Water - World Of Water Winnipeg | Bottled Water Company & More

What 24 Doctors say about drinking Distilled Water.
www.worldofwater.ca www.worldofwater.ca
 
Last edited:
mike550 said:
@BSTurbo6321 overall I think you’re okay. Couple of things. First, anemone are filter feeders and with a “young” tank it may be hard to get enough food. Second, it looks like the anemone is in a different spot between the two pics. If it’s moving around the tank it’s just looking for the right combination of light and flow.

More info about your tank would be helpful
Click to expand...
It’s 15 g in volume with multiple coral that have been growing pretty well

Parameter

Alk- 15dkh
Phos- 1ppm
Nitrate- 5ppm
Ammonia-0
Calcium-480
 
vetteguy53081 said:
Phos is a little elevated but not a cause. mature tanks of 6 months best but BTA can do well in a 3 month tank, However a 3 month tank is subject to chemistry changes such as ammonia and nitrates and at a stage where water changes are certain and BTAs do not favor these changes. I believe your light is the issue here-Insufficient.
Monitor water regularly to assure there are no major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be safe verified by using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temp: 77°F - 80°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
  • Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
  • Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < 5 -10
  • Phosphate < .04 - .08
Most anemones tend to move around the tank until they find a suitable spot and if starts to move , simply direct flow towards the nem. Anemone lighting is an important part of their care as they need good light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic and absorb light to produce their inner food and growth cells known as zooxanthellae in their body which they feed on. Without adequate lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae which many think is poop and turn white which is bleaching and often leads to their death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended as well as moderate light. Too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone which stresses them.
Assure your light is moderate and flow is not excessive in your case. I again believe light is inadequate. Consider an Ai 26 or 32hd, or even noopsyche which will satisfy their lighting needs
RODI is a must and even water from the refill stations at walmart will suffice.
Tap alone has ingredients such as chloramines, lead, zinc and others and just not worth it . water conditioners such as Prime will dilute certain elements but not remove them.
RODI is the way to manage water which is the lifeline of all our specimens in the tank
Click to expand...
I believe where the anemone is in the tank it is recieving around 100 par or so and it is still moving around well in the tank and it positioned itself in heavy to moderate flow
 
www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
BSTurbo6321 said:
It’s 15 g in volume with multiple coral that have been growing pretty well

Parameter

Alk- 15dkh
Phos- 1ppm
Nitrate- 5ppm
Ammonia-0
Calcium-480
Click to expand...
Are your phosphates really 1 ppm and not 0.1 ppm?
 
Fishy888 said:
Are your phosphates really 1 ppm and not 0.1 ppm?
Click to expand...
Yeah they’re between .5 and 1. I know I shouldn’t be but I’m using the api test kit I had bought it before knowing it wasn’t any good and haven’t bought Hanna checkers yet
 
I bought Salifert for phosphates and got exactly one use out of it. The crystals congealed (I closed the bottle tightly and I never got it wet) and suddenly every reading was 0. I got the Hanna checker and it’s worked better for me.
 
Fishy888 said:
I bought Salifert for phosphates and got exactly one use out of it. The crystals congealed (and I closed the bottle tightly) and suddenly every reading was 0. I got the Hanna checker and it’s worked better for me.
Click to expand...
I have hanna for ULR phosphate too but for a titrant kit the red sea was the best. I even went back to salifert for nitrate too :face-with-tears-of-joy: :face-with-tears-of-joy:
The red sea nitrate is good for ULN systems as the low range works stellar.
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar
Saltyreef said:
I have hanna for ULR phosphate too but for a titrant kit the red sea was the best. I even went back to salifert for nitrate too :face-with-tears-of-joy: :face-with-tears-of-joy:
The red sea nitrate is good for ULN systems as the low range works stellar.
Click to expand...
I may end up trying them. There was a time that Salifert was the state of the art for pretty much every parameter but perhaps not so much these days.
 
BSTurbo6321 said:
Yeah they’re between .5 and 1. I know I shouldn’t be but I’m using the api test kit I had bought it before knowing it wasn’t any good and haven’t bought Hanna checkers yet
Click to expand...
Been using hanna a few years now with no issue.
If unsure of your Api results, simply take a water sample to an LFS that Does NOT use Api anything and see what results they come up with to give you direction.
 
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