Bubble Tip Anemone--parameters and stability discussion?

[Cv111]

People always talk about how BTA's require "stability" since stability is more of a concept than a recipe, I wanted to discuss what people feel "stability" means for a BTA as well as the general ranges people have their tanks at.

Let's talk both ideal "target" values as well as the typical range of measurements you see week to week and month to month
-Nitrates/phosphates (Barely detectable/0-5 ppm nitrates, etc.)
-Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium (for instance, dkH stays stable between 7.5-8.5)
-Temp (i.e. 78 +/- .5 degree, etc)
-Salinity (i.e. "on a handheld refractometer calibrated with 35 ppt calibration solution, I cannot identify any salinity changes/I run an auto-top off)
-PAR range
-Other factors to consider in "stability?"

 

[BlennyTime]

I really didn’t find them to be particularly fussy with any parameter or swing. If they don’t like their light of flow, they will move.

I grew from 2 up to 11 or so before I decided to get rid of them. Got tired of them stinging my corals. They are pretty though.

 

[nano_ryan]

Ive put anemones in 2 week old tanks and they are alive to this day. I think anemones can stand almost any perimeter, but not so much light. Lighting is important for anemones.

 

[LeftyReefer]

Previous discussion on the same topic

 

[FreakPrism]

Agree. I have one who has stayed where I placed him mid tank with good flow and lighting. The other one seem to hide in the rock work but stay on the back of the tank a bit lower. However, this second way seems to move around this place daily. They are not very fussy. My tank is at 1.025 and about 78.5F.

Getting my Ocellaris clowns to host them is a different story ...