Bubble Tip hasn't been doing well

CallMeLloyd

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Hey everyone, so my BTA has not been doing well for some time now. When I first got it about 2-3 months ago it looked amazing! I am new to reef keeping as I started this tank on 4/26/22 so about 8 months ago. I have been using API when I do my test and change 10-15% of the water every week. These are my test results from yesterday pH 7.8, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0-5.0, dKH 9, Phosphate 0-0.25, Calcium 360, Mag 1120. I'm planning on doing another water change sooner than waiting a week to get the Cal and Mag up. In my tank I have Fish: Pink Anthias, 2 Blue Chromis Coral: Mushroom, 2 Frogspawn, BTA, Duncan, Zoa frag, Frogspawn Frag. And for CUC I have a Fighting conch, Sally long foot crab, Fire shrimp, a few snails. I have attached pictures of my tank overall and of my sad BTA. When I got it I placed it on top of a rock and it moved to honestly probably one of the worst places (hard to feed).

IMG_4977.JPG
IMG_4978.JPG
IMG_4979.JPG
 
I would first recommend better test kits or at least a second opinion from someone not using API. Get some salifert, red sea or hanna. Using RODI? Also BTA don't need to be fed. If already stressed, the energy needed to digest food can actually make the problem worse.
 
Hi Lloyd, So BTAs need to eat. Between lighting and a weekly supplement like krill are important. What are your lights?
I haven't fed my nems in years.
 
I want to get Hanna's but so pricey :face-savoring-food: but yes I am using RODI, I make my own saltwater. Maybe soon they will have Hanna's on sale around Xmas time.
FYI Hanna has an across the board 10% price increase coming January 1. Better buy em now
 
Hey everyone, so my BTA has not been doing well for some time now. When I first got it about 2-3 months ago it looked amazing! I am new to reef keeping as I started this tank on 4/26/22 so about 8 months ago. I have been using API when I do my test and change 10-15% of the water every week. These are my test results from yesterday pH 7.8, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0-5.0, dKH 9, Phosphate 0-0.25, Calcium 360, Mag 1120. I'm planning on doing another water change sooner than waiting a week to get the Cal and Mag up. In my tank I have Fish: Pink Anthias, 2 Blue Chromis Coral: Mushroom, 2 Frogspawn, BTA, Duncan, Zoa frag, Frogspawn Frag. And for CUC I have a Fighting conch, Sally long foot crab, Fire shrimp, a few snails. I have attached pictures of my tank overall and of my sad BTA. When I got it I placed it on top of a rock and it moved to honestly probably one of the worst places (hard to feed).

IMG_4977.JPG
IMG_4978.JPG
IMG_4979.JPG
You likely have false test readings in which I encourage you to take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours. Salifert and Hanna kits are more reliable.
Back to anemone:
They are NOT fans of frequent water changes and changes in chemistry especially nitrates. Based on the pics, you may have either high water flow and/or bright lighting. With these guys- avoid the extremes- Extreme brightness which causes them to expel zooxanthellae and shrivel or high flow which causes them to hide.
 
Hi Lloyd, So BTAs need to eat. Between lighting and a weekly supplement like krill are important. What are your lights?

I use 2 Current USA Marine Pro's

FYI Hanna has an across the board 10% price increase coming January 1. Better buy em now

:face-with-rolling-eyes: lol

You likely have false test readings in which I encourage you to take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours. Salifert and Hanna kits are more reliable.
Back to anemone:
They are NOT fans of frequent water changes and changes in chemistry especially nitrates. Based on the pics, you may have either high water flow and/or bright lighting. With these guys- avoid the extremes- Extreme brightness which causes them to expel zooxanthellae and shrivel or high flow which causes them to hide.

As far as the lighting goes I have heard that the lights I use really aren't good for reef tanks, and a lot of people have told me to throw them away. What do you suggest I do about the lights? Turning them down would reduce the PAR right? On lights that already don't produce enough PAR?

And as far as flow goes I have 2 wave makers at 10% (pointed towards the surface) and a canister filter with the outflow going across the backside of the rocks (kind of near the BTA). I never moved the outflow the nem planted himself there.
 
I use 2 Current USA Marine Pro's



:face-with-rolling-eyes: lol



As far as the lighting goes I have heard that the lights I use really aren't good for reef tanks, and a lot of people have told me to throw them away. What do you suggest I do about the lights? Turning them down would reduce the PAR right? On lights that already don't produce enough PAR?

And as far as flow goes I have 2 wave makers at 10% (pointed towards the surface) and a canister filter with the outflow going across the backside of the rocks (kind of near the BTA). I never moved the outflow the nem planted himself there.
From the pics looks like a 55g or 75g:
At minimum, T5 lights with white and blue spectrum OR
economy LED such as Vivarspectra
OR (2) Orphek OR3-120 sky blue
OR
Pair of Ai Hydra 26 or 32 hd
 
From the pics looks like a 55g or 75g:
At minimum, T5 lights with white and blue spectrum OR
economy LED such as Vivarspectra
OR (2) Orphek OR3-120 sky blue
OR
Pair of Ai Hydra 26 or 32 hd

It's a 55g, so I guess I need to work on getting better test kits first to make sure levels are good then lights? I'd probably do the Vivarspectra, looks like I would need 2 of them for a 55g breeder.
 
It's a 55g, so I guess I need to work on getting better test kits first to make sure levels are good then lights? I'd probably do the Vivarspectra, looks like I would need 2 of them for a 55g breeder.
Two - Yes
 
Do you know if they can be mounted to tank or do they have to be hung? I can't find any mounting arms.
Have to be hung with some chains that are included. About 12" above the water.
 
I haven't fed my nems in years.
So between @Jekyl good lighting (Kessels I believe) and his fish feeding schedule he has success with his anemones. I chose to supplement weekly with a medium size piece krill for each of my 7 RBTAs. They took it every time and also did well. So between direct feeding or not feeding nems, it really boils down to good lighting. Good luck.
 
You think it is too weak to move to the top of the rock? I thought if it needed more light it would at least move to get more light. Thanks for the help.
 
Correction: I think this Anemone was mislabeled when I got it. I think this is a Sebae Anemone. Check out this video of when I first got it and put in my tank. Looks like it was very bleached when I got it as well.

 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

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  • Other (please explain).

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